• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

1009 heater help

Blazerlover

New member
21
0
0
Location
Ohio
Hey guys! First..Im new here and wish I would of found this site a long time ago...for the last few weeks when I switched on the heater there would be a delay then it would work,finally of course it died..put new blower motor in and still nothing..(yes the fuse was the first thing I checked)now...Iam not a mechanic and this has been my daily driver for years,LOVE this truck!!!! There is a what appears to be a ground wire clip the mounts on firewall with one of the mounting clips,Im lost as how or what to check to figure this out...Im in ohio and its cold here although there IS heat coming from heater just no blower...guess switch could be bad but how do I check this? Its an 86 and still has original sticker on driver side window with original price uncle Sam paid for it in 1986...you guys probably know but $33.000 was a lot of $$ back then....;-)
 

cpf240

Active member
1,479
5
38
Location
Free in Northern Idaho
Welcome to the site, please be sure to go introduce yourself in the New Members thread.

If the fuse is good, I'd suspect the switch, a known issue on these trucks, or the blower resistor assembly. There should be trouble-shooting info in the -20 or -34 TMs available here on SS.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
Welcome to the site.

The blower switch is an item that is know to go bad. Any parts house should have one. Order for a 1984 K5 Blazer.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._234&keyword=blower+switch&pt=01947&ppt=C0039

The top fuse controls the heater fan and the GEN1 alternator exciter wire.

Do you have the free technical manuals?

TM 9-2320-289-10 Operators Manual
TM 9-2320-289-20 Unit Maintenance Manual
TM 9-2320-289-34 Direct Support Manual

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?77609-TM-s-for-the-CUCV
 
Last edited:

Blazerlover

New member
21
0
0
Location
Ohio
THANKS for the replies! Forgot to mention now the glow plug light is now not working either...I KNOW I should of unhooked battery before installing blower motor but didnt,Ive owned 3 military vehicles over the years and always had the TMs for them but when I priced them for the 1009 its just not in my budget..cant believe the prices...Im in the process of moving to southern ohio(Hillsboro)so if there are any of you in that area give me a shout....without the 1009 I would NOT be able to get out of the lane in a good snow storm..this truck amazes me (aftermarket tires)what it can do when hubs are locked...:)
 

cpf240

Active member
1,479
5
38
Location
Free in Northern Idaho
The TMs are in the TM download section and are free.... Very easy to short out a few 24v places under the dash and burn up fusible links on these trucks. Be sure to check the Useful Thread stickies in the CUCV forum, many common topics are well covered there.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Check the fuse that says engine control? It is on the left mid way up. While there check all the fuses. Sounds like a fuse. Also the harness that feeds the switch is know to melt fast to the switch on the back side from a bad connection over the years. Let us know what you find.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Its an 86 and still has original sticker on driver side window with original price uncle Sam paid for it in 1986...you guys probably know but $33.000 was a lot of $$ back then....:wink:
I don't remember them being that much. I am not saying they weren't. I was thinking the M1009 was about 17K. And I did not recall that they had a price on the window sticker. Hey could you post a picture of that sticker? That would be nice to reminisce them days again. I remember the first time I saw these CUCV's at the dealership I worked at. They were really odd looking with the camouflage paint and the bronze interior. They were cool but odd looking. I often wondered if they picked that color interior out of price or GM just matched it as good as they could. I guess it was cooler temperature wise then all black interior. They did not have many choices back then to match.
 

Blazerlover

New member
21
0
0
Location
Ohio
What the heck did I do??

Just went out to start it and now the "wait light" is working but truck wont start...maybe I should of just dressed warmer and said screw heater blower?:lol:Anyway called mechanic and he walked me through to check something to do with glow plugs and its working..it "clicks" when testing it at plug under hood but Im tone deaf but pretty sure Im not hearing it when I push button in cab(put a manual glow plug switch in years ago)so he told me to come back to you guys and said there is a way to bypass the glow plugs or????? If this had a trigger I could fix it..geesh why didnt I pay more attention to auto mechanics when I was young....Im thinking its something simple but any help would be great...also...gas gauge works but way off...cant trust it...any way to fix that? I know it sounds like this 1009 is a POS but to me its a diamond in the rough..that and about 21 MPG means Im keeping it..thanks again in advance...:tigger:had a military dodge ambulance that would pass everything but a gas station.....:popcorn:
 

danoscooter

Member
67
0
6
Location
Bellevue Nebraska
I too am having issues with my heater/blower. I initially changed out the blower motor and it still didn't work. So I put in a new switch and then it started working. Yay, but that was temporary it stopped working again. Oddly enough the fan stops working when it gets cold outside. So I bought the resistor thinking it was that. I'm in the process of changing it out now but it got my thinking will the fan work now that the resistor is off? Well yes the fan did work. So how does the resistor work? We will see tomorrow morning if the resistor was the problem because tomorrow its supposed to get colder here in Nebraska. Anyone have any thoughts?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I think the resistor drops the voltage to create the different speeds of the fan. I would check the plug on the back of the fan switch they are known to melt and make poor connections. You may to replace that plug. I know that all the GM cars and trucks used that same plug. I took them fan switch pigtails out of Oldsmobile's and Pontiac's from the late 80's to the early to mid 90's. The knobs on the switches fit also. You can get rid of the chrome knobs. just find an Olds or Pontiac in the salvage yard. Opinion or helpful hint. You decide..
 

Blazerlover

New member
21
0
0
Location
Ohio
Ok,mechanic tested switch and said it was good..friend came over and started touching wire from battery to heater blower..(tried to tell him NOT a good idea on a 1009)and ended up blowing resistor on blower switch,hooked up a toggle switch(had to order a new switch)so now have heat but its either full on or nothing,,but at least got heat...weird yours stops when it gets cold...??? I was told the resistor takes 24 volt and brings it down to 12...? Wish I had those TMs and will...LOVE my 1009 but yep they can be a puzzle at times...good luck
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
two totally different resistors.

The Glow plug resistor is on the firewall and does help drop the 24v to 12v.

The heater resistor is in the heater box housing next to the blower fan. It does drop the 12v down to various voltages for the different speeds. 12v for high.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...34&keyword=blower+resistor&pt=02627&ppt=C0328

The TMs are posted here and are free to downoad. That is why we have the Technical Manual link at the top of every page. ;-)

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?77609-TM-s-for-the-CUCV
 
Last edited:

danoscooter

Member
67
0
6
Location
Bellevue Nebraska
Cucvrus with the resistor out I still had low, medium and high on the the blower. You would think the blower wouldn't work at all with the resistor connected. And are you talking about the plug that connects to the low/medium/high switch? Mine looked to be in good condition when I was changing out the switch. Thanks for your help.

Blazerlover yeah its having issues when its cold, the moment you need something the most it doesn't work. lol
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Danoscooter I am talking about the resistor on the heater box under the hood. Directly behind the rear battery. I am not talking about the glow plug ballast resistor. I am sure if you disconnect the fan resistor on the outside of the heater box that will end the operation of the blower motor. I may be missing what you are trying to repair and diagnose. Please tell me again.
 

danoscooter

Member
67
0
6
Location
Bellevue Nebraska
The resistor next to the blower motor is the one I am talking about with four terminals behind the rear battery. My blower motor works generally when its not too cold outside but once its around freezing it stops working. Put in a new resistor today so I'll see if the blower works in the morning when its colder.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks