1009 removing body from frame

[richingalveston]

I have my motor out and front clip removed. My truck has been repainted except the fire wall and underside.

While I wait for my motor I was considering pulling the body off the frame so I can refinish the underside and also change my body mount rubber out.

can you get the 1009 body off and back on without having to drill the bed. I know if you do a body lift, to change the bolts to longer ones it is required but just to change the rubber and repaint the bottom side,

Will I have to drill the bed if I am keeping the same bolts?

Thanks,
Rich

 

[cucvrus]

NO. But do not go wild on the 4 front bolts. Soak them well in PB Blaster, Kroil , Any good rust penetrating fluid. The nuts in the body will break loose if you go wild. It is a toss up and I have a 95% success rate at getting them out. When I do fail it was because of impatience and trying to get them all at once. I hit them a good back and forth. I have patience but once in a while I get in a rush and pop goes the weasel. The caged nut is broken loose. All is not lost when that happens. Just cut the heat off the bolt and remove the body. I heat and use vise grips and a welder to get the bolt out. Always works for me. But do NOT rush it. Time and time a couple days working each one and you can do it. Good Luck. report back. I removed the 2 rear ones from Terminus M1009 and they were rusted to nothing.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Good tips there. So often have I thought ok it's going..and instead of more lube and patience, 'another twist' and, yep..pop goes the retainer. Then a whole lot of time spent resolving the situation, much longer than the patience route.

 

[richingalveston]

I figured that to be the case. Mine are pretty clean, I will start soaking them with PB blaster, I like that stuff.

I now have to figure out what to do with the body once removed. The inside is complete with triple insulated floor so if I turn it upside down, it will may not be good. leaving the seats in it and strapping some stuff to the floor may hold it together. it is not glued.

I have a 4000LB A-frame hoist that I can use to lift the cab with a spreader bar, just not sure how to hold it to work on it. I may be able to stand it on its end.

I have done a full restoration with the exception of the underside and parts of the frame, the way the truck sits now, it would be a shame not to go all the way.

Thanks for the input
Rich

 

[Barrman]

I would suggest pulling the fiberglass rear top off. Less things to break and a lot less mass to move around. Maybe make a plate with eyelets to bolt onto the inside the tailgate hinge bolts. So the tailgate is up and helping hold the body square but you can hook your lifting straps on.

Take pictures too.

 

[cucvrus]

Definitely remove the fiberglass top. I used the rear bolt holes on the top of the rails and used some fender washer and secured a d ring nut in place. I then lifted the body with ratchet straps and lowered it onto horses. I used the front fender upper cowl bolts on the front side. But I had mine completely gutted inside. Anything that you can remove is going to be a big help. Of course I am sure you know that. Post a few pictures. Good Luck.

 

[Barrman]

Yeah, take those heavy Suburban seats out of the front before you go picking that thing up. I forgot about those in there.

 

[richingalveston]

The plan would be to just clean sand and paint. the underside is pretty clean now, no rust. I am not a fan of rino liner or other liners that trap moisture between the liner and paint, also once the rust starts traveling under it, you cant fix it without removing liner and that is almost impossible with most liners.

Any suggestions on undercoating the truck, something that is not so permanent that repairs cannot be made at a later date.
I am considering the ceramic bead additive. it is supposed to insulate and reduce noise transfer, anyone with experience. Does it work?

Also I am open to any exterior fire wall treatment for sound and heat. I have the inside done with several layers and it is great, would like to add more if I can.

thanks
Rich

 

[cucvrus]

If you look at my Easter find M1008 you will se that I primed and then I undercoated it with Rusfree under coating. I think a few guys on here have used it. It sprays with a siphon gun and covers real nice. I have been using it for the past 30 years and have ha great results. I just under coated the m1008 cab last night. I will post the pictures tonight. I have had Line X in the entire inside of my Crown of Thorns M1009 and it does NOT allow rust to form. It is scratch resistant and added a great deal of sound barrier to the body.

 

[Chevybrit]

Hi Rich
did you document your previous soundproofing? If so what is the thread called or can you send me a link ?
many thanks

 

[richingalveston]

It is in a post somewhere. I did not put it in a thread that I remember. I used all LMC stuff. I bought two kits of the asphalt based and one kit of the padding and the rubber liner. I also added a thin (1/8 inch) stick on foam that has mylar on one side in the bed side walls. it is used for HVAC, bought it at home depot. And some peal and stick ashalt based roof material (inside doors).

I put two layers of the asphalt LMC stuff down filling all the low spots first so if there is an indention, it may have 4 layers at that point. The grooves in the bed have two strips in them then a full sheet on top. seamed with metal tape

all of the asphalt stuff from LMC was heated with formica gun so it melts into the shape of the space, it also lets it stick some where it runs out the paper backing.

Under the hood I used two kits also, the holes have two layers in them then the full sheet. I used a dab of weather strip glue to hold the piece in then another dab to hold the second piece and then the full sheet with the plastic pieces to hold it all in.

My truck is pretty quiet now, I would like to do what I can to the underside while I have the opportunity.

Rich

 

[cucvrus]

In Pennsylvania that truck would rot out in 2 years. That truck would never dry underneath that sound proofing mat. I have newer trucks that have rubber mats in them and in about 6 years the mats are soaked and the floor have bubbling paint from being wet and getting scratched and rusting. My Son just picked up a 2004 that has no rockers and the floors are rusted thru at the front kick panels. This new age liquid salt/ice melt is a fatal dose/death sentence for vehicles. Especially the CUCV's which were designed to rust out.

 

[richingalveston]

The inside has been stripped primed and painted with several coats of paint. The only way the padding is going to get wet is by me going through something to deep. I know at that time I will have to pull the pad out and let it dry.

The truck is being build for trail and multiple day off road trips. I do not plan to do deep water and heavy mud trips. It is more of a crawler than a mudder. I plan to put a snorkel on it for the just in case times and to let it get cleaner air in trail rides.

I won't be afraid to get it wet but I know what will happen if I do and what to do to fix that. With all the padding I have, the paint is not going to get scratched and as long as it is not scratched and the pad water logged, I should not have any problems.

I may visit the rust belt with it on some occasions but it should stay out of the snow and ice for the most part.

Thanks,
Rich

 

[cucvrus]

Good Luck. Rust never sleeps and small stone particles will get in there. I had a few Line Xed and then covered them with isolation. But if you have a CUCV that does not leak water at all. You will have the first one I ever seen or heard of. These vehicles leak and even get in and out with the wet shoes moisture will sneak in and stay there. Your truck. I am just saying. I have seen how the small stones and dirt creep under the mats and sound proofing on newer cars and trucks. These old trucks have a 30 year head start on the rust and corrosion process.

 

[richingalveston]

I keep an eye on things, this truck gets a lot of attention and it is easy to check under it. I am not worried about it.

My truck does not leak. it has all new rubber, seals, paint, I have had it in driving storms and here in Houston we get plenty of rain. I have it sealed and at any sign of a leak I will fix it.

I have yet to have the floor vents leak either. The windshield rubber is the only old rubber and it is getting changed once the truck is back together. I am putting a new windshield in it with the antenna for a radio.

I had two bad experiences with bed liners. The reason I bought this truck out of Barstow and paid a premium for it was because it was rust free. I could not fix my old 1009. The linex was what I was told was used and it was hard like linex not soft like others. The rust ate the metal under the liner and all that was left in some places was the liner. The liner still looked good but it was like paper when you touch it and you could tear sections out with your hand. The entire bed was rotted not just the rockers and wheel wells.

If the metal starts to go south, you can't get the liner off to fix it without distorting the metal.

I will keep a close eye on any rust developments and remedy the problems as they come up. Once the metal has one of the bed liners on it, it is ruined once the rust starts. With paint, you can salvage something that has only surface rust.

I would say to each is own on this subject. For as many people who have had good experiences, there are just as many that have had bad ones.
I like bed liners for the bed of a new truck or a buggy that is going to be used abused and thrown away.

In a vehicle that does not leak and is not driven through high water I will take my chances on the sound proofing to save my hearing and sanity to drive the truck. I can actually talk on my cell phone or to any of the four passengers without having to yell.