1097r1 blower motor won't turn on

[Spartans_300]

Hello everyone,
I recently bought a 1097r1 and I am working through making it functional. Thing runs and drives like a dream and if the odometer is to be believed engine only has 2k on it. I recently went and bought a new blower motor thinking that the old one was shot as I have had decent luck with most electrical things in the truck being just a matter of the part being bad. New motor doesn't seem to turn on either. So I am trying to determine if my issue is a ground problem or if the switch or something else is just bad in the circuit. Kinda looking for tips on what could be the issue.

 

[Mogman]

Welcome to the SS forums!

 

[Mogman]

A volt/ohm meter, basic electrical trouble shooting and the schematic will get you the results you are looking for.
Sorry I can't help you with the volt meter

 

[Mogman]

If it were me I would pop the inst. panel and look for 24V at the back of the fan switch.
Is the alt charging? there is a relay in the PCB box that sends 24V to CB1 as you can see by the schematic that feeds the fan switch, but it also powers the IGN. terminal on the alt, if it that relay was bad the alt. would not charge.
As far as ground you can turn the fan on and look between the fan motor body and a good ground (the shunt mounted to the inside wall of the battery box is an excellent spot)
IF you see 24V then the motor ground is the problem.
All above is with the run switch in run position.

Since nobody downloads and reads the operators manual I think I should warn you that EVERY time you turn the run switch to OFF you MUST wait at least 90 seconds before switching back to run or you can fry the glow plugs and or the PCB box.

 

[Thunderbirds]

Hello everyone,
I recently bought a 1097r1 and I am working through making it functional. Thing runs and drives like a dream and if the odometer is to be believed engine only has 2k on it. I recently went and bought a new blower motor thinking that the old one was shot as I have had decent luck with most electrical things in the truck being just a matter of the part being bad. New motor doesn't seem to turn on either. So I am trying to determine if my issue is a ground problem or if the switch or something else is just bad in the circuit. Kinda looking for tips on what could be the issue.

.
Are the wipers working? Keep in mind, for mobility purposes the windshield folds down and forward to lower the overall height. There are pins on either side if the assembly that hold it in place. With that said, the electrical connection from the truck to the windshield are three metal connectors on the truck side and on the windshield side, they are not hardwired. If you have corrosion on these, you will not get voltage up to the assembly.

You may need to fold the windshield, carefully, follow the TM. And make sure these connectors are clean.

Just a thought.

 

[Spartans_300]

.
Are the wipers working? Keep in mind, for mobility purposes the windshield folds down and forward to lower the overall height. There are pins on either side if the assembly that hold it in place. With that said, the electrical connection from the truck to the windshield are three metal connectors on the truck side and on the windshield side, they are not hardwired. If you have corrosion on these, you will not get voltage up to the assembly.

You may need to fold the windshield, carefully, follow the TM. And make sure these connectors are clean.

Just a thought.

The wipers do indeed function as does the newly installed wiper fluid bottle and pump I just put in it. I went and tried installing a new blower resistor, and switch, but to no avail. I am assuming it has to be a wiring problem at this point. I'll try and read that wiring schematic, but I am fairly new at working on vehicles as indepth as this.

 

[Spartans_300]

If it were me I would pop the inst. panel and look for 24V at the back of the fan switch.
Is the alt charging? there is a relay in the PCB box that sends 24V to CB1 as you can see by the schematic that feeds the fan switch, but it also powers the IGN. terminal on the alt, if it that relay was bad the alt. would not charge.
As far as ground you can turn the fan on and look between the fan motor body and a good ground (the shunt mounted to the inside wall of the battery box is an excellent spot)
IF you see 24V then the motor ground is the problem.
All above is with the run switch in run position.

Since nobody downloads and reads the operators manual I think I should warn you that EVERY time you turn the run switch to OFF you MUST wait at least 90 seconds before switching back to run or you can fry the glow plugs and or the PCB box.

Just to reiterate for context, I have tried installing a new low speed resistor, and a fan low hi switch with no luck, as well as a new motor. I'll post back when I have a chance to try using a multimeter, at this point I am thinking I should probably start with checking 27d at the resistor, and seeing what I get. Should I expect to see 12 or 24v at 27d at the switch end. I do believe the generator is charging the batteries as I've not had them die on me since I replaced the original dead military ones with interstate bats.

 

[Mogman]

Just to reiterate for context, I have tried installing a new low speed resistor, and a fan low hi switch with no luck, as well as a new motor. I'll post back when I have a chance to try using a multimeter, at this point I am thinking I should probably start with checking 27d at the resistor, and seeing what I get. Should I expect to see 12 or 24v at 27d at the switch end. I do believe the generator is charging the batteries as I've not had them die on me since I replaced the original dead military ones with interstate bats.

You should see 24V at 27D, also please quit randomly replacing parts and take the time to troubleshoot the issue, the problem with randomly replacing parts is it cost allot of money and you can be inducing more problems to the equation making troubleshooting much more difficult.

 

[Spartans_300]

You should see 24V at 27D, also please quit randomly replacing parts and take the time to troubleshoot the issue, the problem with randomly replacing parts is it cost allot of money and you can be inducing more problems to the equation making troubleshooting much more difficult.

Oh yeah definitely done replacing till I fully troubleshoot now, the switch and resistor were onky a hundred bucks so I figured it was a good place to start.