My next trick, creating a fake armored rear wall so the a/c stays up front and to slightly lessen the interior noise from the rear condenser fans. Well, duplicating the rear wall but using plywood instead of metal. My truck is missing the brackets that hold it on - I’d like to use originals and original rear wall hardware like latches and such. I know these originals are all scrapped, but is anyone out there saving hardware? I have part numbers for latches but only left side seems available.
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1151 armored rear wall
- Thread starter mrfarb
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The rear walls ar now being mfg’d privately, if you insist on going the cheaper route of wood? I have the installation kit, but I promise you won’t like the price….LOL
I have found new made rear armor wall assemblies/kits, even cheaper aluminum ones.
Edit: I’m adding to this post the original pages from the TM showing the diagram and the part numbers for the original components. My goal at this point is a visual duplicate of the original wall, without the weight.
Edit: I’m adding to this post the original pages from the TM showing the diagram and the part numbers for the original components. My goal at this point is a visual duplicate of the original wall, without the weight.
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FYI:
The price of my home made 1/4” thick aluminum sheet half doors was comparable with plywood.
The price of my home made 1/4” thick aluminum sheet half doors was comparable with plywood.
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Have you held 1/4”? It is stout.
IMHO, go to a wholesale place and actually put your hands in this stuff.
I was skeptical at first. Then I listened to Hummer H1 and Eric was correct. 1/4” Aluminum is solid stuff.
IMHO and advice given with respect.
A $100-$300 Harbor Freight or Ama$on plasma cutter will make short work of 1/4” and 1/2” Aluminum. I used an angle grinder to cut those doors and it is messy BUT works well as long as you move carefully and patiently.
I have an older M1165 that uses the civilian HMCS top. The rear curtain is 18 gauge cold rolled steel.
I can’t imagine needing 1/2” Aluminum sheet unless you anticipate small arms fire. Again meant with respect.
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Thanks for the info - I’ll look at that. There is a guy selling pre cut 1/4” aluminum ones as well - my 1/2 inch comment was due to the fact all of the hardware seems to be for 1/2 inch parts, like the doors and brackets. So my comment was geared toward fitting the original type hardware. I found the rear wall brackets (most of them) in the TM and have added up cost of the major components which will be hard to duplicate - not terrible, probably expensive to non Hmmwv people but what can you do. lol.
Gamble
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For aluminum, you may not need all of the brackets. Just maybe top and sides. Keep in mind, the rear wall is a heavy composite while you're using light aluminum.
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Any way someone with a rear wall could give me these 3 measurements before the weekend? About to make a pattern and wanted the rear door opening to be the right size. Door measurement would also be helpful. If not I’ll just estimate based on dead reckoning.
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Gamble
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I'll try to get you measurements this weekend or on Friday. I'm slammed.
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Gamble
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Measurement 1: 24 inches
Measurement 2: 20.5 inches
Measurement 3a (bottom): 4 inches
Measurement 3b (top): 2.5 inches
See attached photos
Measurement 2: 20.5 inches
Measurement 3a (bottom): 4 inches
Measurement 3b (top): 2.5 inches
See attached photos
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So helpful, you are the best! I’ll post with some progress tomorrow hopefully
Gamble
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My Rear wall Door measurements are as follows:
Height: 25 inches
Width: 11.5 inches
Thickness: 3/4 inch
Note: My rear wall doors may not be exact spec.
Height: 25 inches
Width: 11.5 inches
Thickness: 3/4 inch
Note: My rear wall doors may not be exact spec.
Ok, day 1 went pretty good. Pic shows the parts I have so far - 3 brackets and door pulls/latches. I made a pattern of the sponson side with 1/2” plywood so it would be light and easy to work - good thing, took a lot of manipulation. Once I got it right, transferred the pattern (it’s reversible) and then cut both sides from 3/4” cabinet grade plywood - I know, it isnt waterproof marine grade - but I’m going to epoxy it and seal it before I paint it. That should last a while. Thanks for the measurements, saved me a ton of guesswork. Still needs some slight trimming on top, but I’m missing the door rails still so I don’t want to finalize that cut. Pics show first test fitting, will take a while to totally complete it.
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Was able to get more done this weekend, over the last few weeks I finished shaping the plywood wall and epoxy priming it. I painted the wall with latex carc paint and installed it. Drilled holes for the door channels. Finished out the doors and temporarily installed them. I have both upper rails but dropped one off at a local sheetmetal shop to copy and create bottom channels - might get those back this week. Looking legit!
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Nice work!!
Gamble
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Great work. Outstanding. Congratulations