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12v headlights on 24v system - wiring

MarcusOReallyus

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I also went to light vehicle driving school at Ft. Polk and drove the M151.


You needed a school to drive the 151?!?!?! :shock:

rofl

We just drove them! There was some paperwork to fill out, and we got a license. That was it!

Some for the 113, too. Never heard of a school for either one.


I took Basic & AIT at Ft. Puke in '74. WWII barracks, with the red concrete floors. I hear they've all been torn down now. Would love to go back and visit some time. :beer:
 

Prince

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"Light Vehicle Driving School". AIT (Advanced Individual Training) after Basic Training. My MOS was a light vehicle driver. I remember the 151s electric fuel pumps clicking away and trying to start in the very cold temperatures. I wanted to fly helicopters, but my eye sight did not qualify me. I much later got my helicopter license on my own!

We drove them under water, up hills of mud, through ruff terrain, etc. in the winter. It was cold as ****!


I thought about the headlights (new type) that use a separate lamp, but they don't have the vintage look. If someone can help me post a picture or put one on my name, I will include a few that I took yesterday of the yellow headlights.
 

o1951

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Bergen County, NJ
12 volt lights on 24 v

Headlights are 3 terminal lamps - offset blade is common to hi & low filaments, 1 of the parallel blades is hi, one low.

Purchase 1- 24V DPDT relay and some wire.

Example - could be either side:

Left lamp - ground the offset blade.
Right lamp - connect offset blade to headlight switch.
Relay coil connects to high beam side of hi/lo switch.

in unenergized position, R1, pole 1 connects left and right low beam blades.
Energized, pole 1 opens, pole 2 closes.
Pole 2 connects left and right high beam blades.

Fail safe in that if relay coil blows, headlights remain on in low beam.

Disadvantage - one headlight filament pops, both are out.​
 

Prince

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I added an Album and uploaded some photos of my M38A1, for those interested in seeing it. Some showing the new yellow headlights.

I don't know how to add one of the photos to my User ID?
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Cold weather and avatars

It's called an "avatar".

From any page, to to the upper right where you see your name, "Welcome, Prince"

Click on your name.

The page will reload and now, just under your name, you'll see: Notifications My Profile Settings Log Out

Click on Settings.

The page will reload. Scroll down about half way and you'll see a little box on the left titled, "My Settings".

In that box, among other things, you'll see "Edit Avatar".

You should be good from there. If you have further questions, you can post them in the Website Help section. :beer:


So, you drove 151s in cold weather at Ft. Polk? I was there in what they call cold weather. Then I went to Ft. Carson, and I found out about cold weather! :mrgreen:
 

clinto

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Wow, your Jeep looks awesome.
 

Prince

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Thanks. I am sort of funny about little details. More so with the period correct details (within realism), than I am with a Jeep that is a trailer queen. I want it to look like it is still in active duty, but very nice shape.

By the way, the rectangular cover on top of the front bumper is covering up my personalized Texas license plate - the only on in Texas. A license plate does not have to be in view in Texas (as I understand it) on a antique military vehicle. I have had it for over 20 yrs!

And it reads....

G.I.JOE
 

Josh113

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not sure if it is what you want but i got hids in my m35a2 you can just get the 7" round headlight housing and get low k hids like 3000ks just make sure you get 24v hids I got 24v 8000 k there blue tho so do not get 8000k just get 3000k there yellow
 

Prince

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Houston, Texas
I should be receiving the 480w 24v to 12v converter this week. The 12v headlights are installed using the simple military quick disconnects (3 on each headlight), so they can be easily changed back to 24v headlights.

The plan is to make the same quick disconnects for the converter, so that it can also be quickly installed or removed from the power wire coming from the headlight switch and going to the headlight dimmer switch.

The converter will be mounted under the hood on the firewall. I believe there will be two military quick disconnects (24v in, and 12v out). Also, two ground wires from the converter to the firewall (12v, and 24v - might only need one)


Every thing will operate as normal. Removal of the converter requires only removing the two ground wire screws, and disconnecting the quick disconnects (24v, and 12v), and then connecting the two disconnects on the jeep back together. Then removing the two screws holding the converter onto the firewall. Less than 5 minutes. Every easy to access - just open the hood and the converter is right in front of you! The only thing not original (and I am not that picky), will be the extra disconnect in the power wire going to the dimmer switch.

If all goes well (and you never know), I will take pictures of the installation and post them in my Album. I did learn a lot on the forum and thank everyone for their input. Once again, there is more than one way to skin a cat (sorry cats).
 

Recovry4x4

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Have you tried to send ZiggyO a PM? He had a bunch there at one time. I Had a few sets, gave them away.
 

Prince

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No, however I have come in contact with many folks who HAD them, but none that HAVE them. I thought that someone said that ZiggyO HAD them, but no more.

I may find some in a few years (if I remember to look every day), but I would like to have them now or very soon. For the two yellow 12v lights and converter, I think I have spent about $130.

However, please let me know if you find some, and better yet if they are free!

I am now cleaning up another one of my vehicles, a 1965 Chrysler New Yorker with a 413 Wedge, that I will be showing in the Houston AutoRama this week. I wanted to put the Jeep in this year, but it is not ready. Maybe next year.
 

Prince

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I added a few photos (in my Album) of the installation of the converter, as well as a simple wiring diagram. Headlight connections were not modified (except that military connectors were installed on the non-military 12v headlights).

We have the 480W 24v to 12v converter installed. easy as falling off a log. One existing wire cut (the one going from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch). We installed disconnects, so that wire can easily be re-connected to get 24v to the headlights once again, should I ever use 24v headlights. Each cut end of that wire has a mating connection (one for 24v into the converter, and one for 12v out of the converter). Therefore, you would disconnect 2 connections and re-connect 1 connection. Just leave the converter and associated wires installed but not in use, if you like - for reverting back to 24v. Maybe all of 15 seconds to go back to 24v.

Checked everything with an volt-ohm meter, and all is well. Tomorrow we will install the connectors on the headlight wires - then we are done!
 
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