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1500 max rpm? nhc 250

tiny110

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Ok hare we go

Different thread different truck. The other truck was a m923 this one is a m818.

I get insulted because I get treated like an idiot.

Yes Air filter is good.

As for 73m819. You and i have already had this argument before. And since you're the moderator whatever I say is wrong and whatever you say is right. So I'm not going there again. Just because you can't comprehend what you read. There is a difference in facts and assumptions.
 

tiny110

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Stalwart From what I gathered from your posts. You are saying that you have to change out the pump to change the max rpm. I'm just not buying that. If I'm wrong by all means post it up and prove it to everyone.

My personal thought is that there must be a screw to turn or a spring that needs to be changed the rpm.

O and with no load (Truck in neutral) and my foot to the floor it will do 1600 rpm.
 
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porkysplace

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Maybe you should try here :

1. Cummins Southern Plains, LLC (4972)
7045 NORTH LOOP EAST, HOUSTON, Texas 77028, United States

Phone:(713) 679-2220
Fax:(713) 679-7774
 

Stalwart

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No, it simply appears that your governor is set VERY low. Governors with that low of a setting are typically used for ground power applications: generators, water pumps and other uses where longevity and fuel burn rate is a determining factor (engine kept near the torque peak for best fuel burn). Are you certain you don't have a either a ground power engine or governor in there? I've looked at several 8V92's for spares for my HEMTT and numerous ones I had to pass on because they were ground power units with the wrong pump.

If the engine is limited to the same RPM at any load it CANNOT be: filters, throttle position adjustment, airflow restrictions or any other item. It can only be ONE THING, governor adjustment or the wrong governor for a road vehicle.

I've seen several people buy ground power engines have this issue. On some engines it takes a different governor and on others it takes a different spring kit AND/OR an adjustment. Get the TM, it's available on the internet, I've read part of it.
 

M813A1

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Have you checked you tank to make sure that your pick up tube has not collapsed or any other line has collapsed or the line may collapse as you raise the rpm a line could be collapsing and causing a flow restriction ??
 

tiny110

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The problem is in the injection pump. The motor has power. Regardless of load it will not live above 1500 rpm. So that means that the injector pump is governed to 1500 rpm. So the question is What needs to be done to change that governor?
 

AMGeneral

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Ok,I have read this thread from nose to tail, Me personally I would get the CPL # off the metal tag on top of the IP(the high idle rpm may also be listed here) and call your local IP rebuild shop,give them the number,they should be able to tell you exactly what the governed rpm should be for that IP.

Both the low and high idle on a Cummins engine with a PT system are controlled by the spring pack located under the conical cover on the rear of the pump with the 1/8 th in pipe plug in the center.

UNLESS.......

your truck may have an aux governer located on the top rear of the IP,in that case it may be limiting high idle rpm as well,a pic or 2 would help ID this.
 

bearboley

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I am sure I told you a before in this thread that you shim the spring in the back of the pump to increase rpm and fuel pressure at the same time. Its very easy to do even you could do it I think. Stack about a quarter inch of shimes under that spring , on the right side of the pump should be a hose that goes into a a plate held on by some little bolts unhook that and plug the lines while your at it pull your throttle shaft throw in about a 5 or a zero button and turn that screw in the end of the shaft you already messed with. Do all that you will wake that old 250 up for a little bit and give you what your after.:driver:
 
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Bjmca

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After reading through this post and noting some of the insults that have been thrown around I will attempt to help anyway.

I cannot help you with the pump cpl numbers and such but if you did take off the governor spring cover and pull the assembly out there are color coded stripes on the main governor spring. If you have the colors i can check my PT pump book.

Here is the process of removing the governor assembly and what is need to do to change a fuel button or shims. Also the stock fuel buttons on this motor should be a #27.

Heres some pics of the pieces. This takes about 10 minutes to take apart. The last picture shows the new number 10 button Im installing on my turbo conversion M923.
 

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Bjmca

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I am sure I told you a before in this thread that you shim the spring in the back of the pump to increase rpm and fuel pressure at the same time. Its very easy to do even you could do it I think. Stack about a quarter inch of shimes under that spring , on the right side of the pump should be a hose that goes into a a plate held on by some little bolts unhook that and plug the lines while your at it pull your throttle shaft throw in about a 5 or a zero button and turn that screw in the end of the shaft you already messed with. Do all that you will wake that old 250 up for a little bit and give you what your after.:driver:
Not sure why such sarcasm has to be used when someone is asking for help. aua

And to clairfy the governor springs has nothing to do with fuel pressure, this is controlled by the button. The governor spring and shims limit the high speed side of the pump.

I would turn the screw all the ways back in the throttle shaft then open it back up about six turns to start with if you are not sure where its at now. Too far out actually will start to drop the pressure back down. Ideally a guage on the pump would make setting the screw easier, but that should be a good starting point.

Good luck and let me know if I can help.
 

tiny110

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I can handle the sarcasm. I not that much of an idiot. Lol

The problem now is that i guess i unscrewed it to far. the screw blew out when i was driving. So its gone. :-( Anyone know what needs to be done to fix it? Do i just need another screw or did i mess up the inside of the pump?
 

bearboley

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Not sure why such sarcasm has to be used when someone is asking for help. aua

And to clairfy the governor springs has nothing to do with fuel pressure, this is controlled by the button. The governor spring and shims limit the high speed side of the pump.

I would turn the screw all the ways back in the throttle shaft then open it back up about six turns to start with if you are not sure where its at now. Too far out actually will start to drop the pressure back down. Ideally a guage on the pump would make setting the screw easier, but that should be a good starting point.

Good luck and let me know if I can help.
In my part of the world we call it funnin a bit. I think tiny110 took it as such. You have to admit it would wake it up for a bit till it burnt a hole. A few post back I did tell him to shim the governor spring to increase the rpm's. I should have looked in the book as I to have a set of cummins service manuals.
 

aarron81

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i had a similar problem when i bought my m816 wrecker. it wouldnt rev much over 1500 in any gear. turned out to be that when you engage the pto there is an air valve and some linkage under the truck that works a throttle stop on the pt pump so you dont over rev it while pto is on and the valve linkage was messed up. easy fix.
 

73m819

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After reading through this post and noting some of the insults that have been thrown around I will attempt to help anyway.

I cannot help you with the pump cpl numbers and such but if you did take off the governor spring cover and pull the assembly out there are color coded stripes on the main governor spring. If you have the colors i can check my PT pump book.

Here is the process of removing the governor assembly and what is need to do to change a fuel button or shims. Also the stock fuel buttons on this motor should be a #27.

Heres some pics of the pieces. This takes about 10 minutes to take apart. The last picture shows the new number 10 button Im installing on my turbo conversion M923.
I am dropping my fuel button on my straight stacked, NON turboed m819 to 22, for a bit of help on hills, also going to in stall a pyro, I would think dropping to 10 would be a bit much even with a turbo, being that there is NO piston squatters, there is another thread talking about dropping the button number with a turbo install, he was going to drop to 17 but tried 20 first, said that he never did drop to 17, that the engine ran great and had power on the 22.
 
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