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Simply stated, you're doing some darn interesting work on the old girl. Thank you for sharing the pictures.
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1941 K18-C GMC Recovered today
- Thread starter papabear
- Start date
papabear
GA Mafia Imperial 1SG
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Looks like Zout is continuing the mission even though liquid resupply was delayed.
It appears the new rear brake wheel cylinders are installed and lines connected, shoes installed seals ready.
This all just goes to show that when the "Bulldog" attacks, not much will stop or slow him down!!
It appears the new rear brake wheel cylinders are installed and lines connected, shoes installed seals ready.
This all just goes to show that when the "Bulldog" attacks, not much will stop or slow him down!!
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goldneagle
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HA HA that's not gonna work! No snow with outside temps at over 100 degrees.
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End of pics - you can see where mutilation to hammer on and off spindle nuts damaged the bearing cages - IF I recall reading this the TM's tell you to beat the h** out of spindle nuts with a hammer and chisel or screwdriver or rock to remove and to put them on - totally forget about wheel end/bearing play and get ready for an accident.
These spindle nuts are almost non-existant so I was forced to have to clean them up and get the flatest surface I could - Once they are torqued down and wheel end play is dial indicated checked will be the real test.
Wire harness dragged out after the brake lines were totally finished - front brakes the return springs are on Back Order - will call them tomorrow.
Pick up complete set of bearings tomorrow with cups and cones due to someones stupidity - $$$$$$$$$ un-necessary costs against the budget.
Keep after the wire harness tomorrow.
Once I get the bearings I will go back on that rear end - clean out the diff chunk as well without splitting it - bearings get packed as the spindle end is a seal keeping diff fluid from entering the bearings - the spider end of the hub is a felt seal which is for grease only - so its a dual system. I prefer grease better than oiled bearings anyhow. Will take a pic of the lube I fill that chunk with.
I keep staring at the OEM fuel tank - getting my puny head wrapped around it so it can be used in some sort of manner looking oem (lots and lots and lots of pinholes and chunks of rust in it). We'll see what lame idea I can come up with down the road.
Larry had been keeping the encouragement meter running on me and I know he's more than extatic to see it and the work that's been done on it so far - MAN - I would have checked up on me a LONG time ago - who knows how much super glue and JB Weld I could have used by now.
If there are any pics without a comment and you want to know what the heck it is just let me know - the one with the wheel cylinder round thingy is its adjuster - the circular adjuster wheel fell off with the dimples on it - when you turn the bolt on the backside of the hub it turns the adjuster on the wheel cylinder thus adjusting the brake shoes - very cool. I welded this back on and if One was going to break off I went ahead and spot welded all 4 on just to be safe. I do not need PB comin up here whoopin on me cause I forgot something to make him crash (tree is cut down Larry).
These spindle nuts are almost non-existant so I was forced to have to clean them up and get the flatest surface I could - Once they are torqued down and wheel end play is dial indicated checked will be the real test.
Wire harness dragged out after the brake lines were totally finished - front brakes the return springs are on Back Order - will call them tomorrow.
Pick up complete set of bearings tomorrow with cups and cones due to someones stupidity - $$$$$$$$$ un-necessary costs against the budget.
Keep after the wire harness tomorrow.
Once I get the bearings I will go back on that rear end - clean out the diff chunk as well without splitting it - bearings get packed as the spindle end is a seal keeping diff fluid from entering the bearings - the spider end of the hub is a felt seal which is for grease only - so its a dual system. I prefer grease better than oiled bearings anyhow. Will take a pic of the lube I fill that chunk with.
I keep staring at the OEM fuel tank - getting my puny head wrapped around it so it can be used in some sort of manner looking oem (lots and lots and lots of pinholes and chunks of rust in it). We'll see what lame idea I can come up with down the road.
Larry had been keeping the encouragement meter running on me and I know he's more than extatic to see it and the work that's been done on it so far - MAN - I would have checked up on me a LONG time ago - who knows how much super glue and JB Weld I could have used by now.
If there are any pics without a comment and you want to know what the heck it is just let me know - the one with the wheel cylinder round thingy is its adjuster - the circular adjuster wheel fell off with the dimples on it - when you turn the bolt on the backside of the hub it turns the adjuster on the wheel cylinder thus adjusting the brake shoes - very cool. I welded this back on and if One was going to break off I went ahead and spot welded all 4 on just to be safe. I do not need PB comin up here whoopin on me cause I forgot something to make him crash (tree is cut down Larry).
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Hey PB, where did you get that great picture of Zout. I just realized that bulldogs look just like him. 
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How did ya "fix" the nuts? Belt sander? Curious
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In the picture of the bearing nuts on the truck bed rail are the ones with the collar also threaded? Lock nut probably? Never saw one like that. I have to admit I have used the punch method to remove spindle nuts in the past but the circumstance were a bit different. Middle of nowhere with a fried bearing in a Jeep. Had a bearing but for some reason did not have the socket, had the one for my Ford instead.
BUT, I made nowhere near the mess they did! Bearing preload is very minimal so it does not take a hammer and chisel to achieve.
BUT, I made nowhere near the mess they did! Bearing preload is very minimal so it does not take a hammer and chisel to achieve.
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March - angle mini grinder that take many 1/4 shaft tool arrangements - one of them is to use 3M scotchbrite 2in and 3in pads. I use the medium and course in most applications. That is what I used. The collet end spindle nut also is the shaft the end seal engages with.
Gotta figure here folks using spindle sockets are cheaper than regular sockets. Most are 1/2 tool ends.
First spindle nut gets torqued at 200 ft pounds. First torque and then spin the hub 3 times - re-torque and spin the hub 3 more times and torque the 3rd time and spin the hub.
Back off the nut BUT DO NOT USE YOUR TORQUE WRECH to remove anything - only forward torque. Use your breaker bar to loosen.
Re-torque again at 100 ft pound in the same identical sequence - back it off again and torque at 50 ft lbs.
Put in your spacer - put in the last nut. At this time the bearings are forcing backwards as these are NOT machined threads like the Stemo Pro Torque nut. So the outside nut gets torqued at 200 ft lbs forcing the inner nut back where it belongs.
Attached your dial indicator against the end of the spindle and dial in at ZERO - twist and pull on your brake bub and you should be within 1 to two thousanths play - your good to go.
Always look up your specific torque in the TM's and what the allowable wheel end play should be. These are what this axle takes.
Now tell me how hammering the crap out of them spindle nut you come up with a calibrated torgue.
Its like a chuck for a drill or air gun drill - do you realize there are 3 places to tighten down your drill bit in a chuck - there are 3 collets in that chuck and each one needs tightened down - not just one.
Gotta figure here folks using spindle sockets are cheaper than regular sockets. Most are 1/2 tool ends.
First spindle nut gets torqued at 200 ft pounds. First torque and then spin the hub 3 times - re-torque and spin the hub 3 more times and torque the 3rd time and spin the hub.
Back off the nut BUT DO NOT USE YOUR TORQUE WRECH to remove anything - only forward torque. Use your breaker bar to loosen.
Re-torque again at 100 ft pound in the same identical sequence - back it off again and torque at 50 ft lbs.
Put in your spacer - put in the last nut. At this time the bearings are forcing backwards as these are NOT machined threads like the Stemo Pro Torque nut. So the outside nut gets torqued at 200 ft lbs forcing the inner nut back where it belongs.
Attached your dial indicator against the end of the spindle and dial in at ZERO - twist and pull on your brake bub and you should be within 1 to two thousanths play - your good to go.
Always look up your specific torque in the TM's and what the allowable wheel end play should be. These are what this axle takes.
Now tell me how hammering the crap out of them spindle nut you come up with a calibrated torgue.
Its like a chuck for a drill or air gun drill - do you realize there are 3 places to tighten down your drill bit in a chuck - there are 3 collets in that chuck and each one needs tightened down - not just one.
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Easy there my friend, I said it was extenuating circumstances! I have probably 30 plus spindle nut sockets in the garage. Those torques are much higher than what I am used to dealing with on light duty trucks, with them it is in the 45 ft/lbs. range. And I learned about using all three points on a chuck in machinists class in Vo-tech.
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I understand and there might be times temporarially to perform a repair like that.....but i am sure you would not leave it like that and correct it.
The drill chuck thingy was only a broad fyi....but i bet you have seen many folks that did not know that being a machinest....i see you nodding your head YES.
The drill chuck thingy was only a broad fyi....but i bet you have seen many folks that did not know that being a machinest....i see you nodding your head YES.
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I owned a 4x4 shop so yes, it did get taken care of as soon as I got back. As far as the drill, ask any of the guys in the shop here where I work, If they were reading this they would all be laughing, pointing at me and nodding yes.
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Hey Commander, I am not a machinist but I do know about the drill chuck thingy so please do not ban me from your thread.
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I bet you did not know an aligator cannot stick its tongue out nor can a pig look UP into the sky.
Thought i would lighten this up a few notches.
Thought i would lighten this up a few notches.
Whiterabbit
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All this while I thought I had OCD by tightening the chucks like that!
I even taught military machinists that trick because I used to come unwrapped when students returned with a chewed up drill bit shank!
Keep up the good work!
I even taught military machinists that trick because I used to come unwrapped when students returned with a chewed up drill bit shank!
Keep up the good work!
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Yup! We went to the Zoo in Abilene TX on Saturday and never once did I notice this rascal sticking out his tongue....
... although it was 104F at about the time I took this photo, so he wasn't stickin' nuttin' out that he didn't have to.
turnkey
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Is that pic of zout before the beer arrivied late....Lots of coooool rebuild pics great work so far.....BUT IS THE SLOWEST ICE CREAM TRUCK REBUILD THIS SUMMER ....Hurry up guys summer is almost done... Hint Hint..
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With all the parts hunted down nothing brings this unit into a specific model make and components put into it - take that for a challenge although we know Manufactured it.
papabear
GA Mafia Imperial 1SG
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Hey!! Pics # 1 and 3 above look like you drove the K18 over to the local housing projects and left her unattended for a few minutes!!
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The only reason you noticed those pics of me stripping metal parts for $$$$$$$$ was you just cameback from NY or otherwise you would not have noticed.