• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

1952 M135 W/Winch

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
DHennon..yes, it was used at a fire department in eastern Kansas up until the mid 90's after leaving the military/forestry service. The name of the department escapes me at the moment. I am the 3rd owner since that time. The first owner had it for several years, but had to sell due to an injury that prevented him from doing anything with it any longer. The second owner bought it on an impulse, realized it was more work than he wanted to do to maintain it and sold it to me after owning it for just a few months.

I am really enjoying it. Probably the most fun purchase I have made, but it is a lot of work.
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
Carburetor Rebuild

My dad came over for a visit and we rebuilt the carburetor on my truck. We had a lot of success and also have a few questions.

After doing some research, I chose to use Klean Strip Naked Gun Spray Gun Cleaner to soak the carburetor in. I was very pleased with the results after maybe an hour of soaking. Here are the before and after pictures. The last picture in the line is after we had started the rebuild. We did not soak it assembled like that.

100_2245.jpg100_2247.jpg100_2248.jpg100_2251.jpg

I used a NOS rebuild kit and noticed that the jets and various other pieces that were already in the carburetor had larger diameter openings than what came in the rebuild kit. I chose to reuse the old parts. Here is a comparison of what I am talking about. Does anyone see a reason why I shouldn't have gone back with what was already in there? The new replacement part is on the left and old is on the right.
100_2249.jpg100_2250.jpg

aua Now for the problem that I can see many of you have already had but I did not see a solution in searching the forum. The old accelerator pump was no good. The new one was really tight and would stick in place. We tried soaking it in gas, oiling it, removing the spring from underneath the leather seal and I even sanded the diameter of the seal down slightly to reduce the diameter. Sanding it down helped some, but the thing still sticks. Before I go in search of a solution, does anyone know what else to do to fix the problem? aua

The adapter kit I purchased a few weeks ago was put to good use and sure made adjusting things so much easier. I highly recommend getting one. We set idle RPMs to 375, checked vacuum and dwell. Everything seems to be working great except for the accelerator pump.
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
I did unearth the photocopies of military manual chapter on the 885-FFG and the 1957 Holley service manual. Neither had any insight on the difficulties we experienced. Could the kits be for the REO or something else? I believe they were used on mercury and some other cars as the side air horn allowed for a lower hood.
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
I looked at those threads yesterday and that manual online during the rebuild of the carb. Have you considered posting a copy of the military carburetor rebuild manual in the TM section? It would be awesome if you did.

My problem is definitely the accelerator pump. It is too tight and sticks. If I pull back on the gas pedal, I can get it to unstick. I'll look at the tag that was with the rebuild kit and post it up here in a little bit. Maybe it is to something else. I read somewhere on here that the M35 carburetors had larger openings in the jets. That is why I was wondering if the parts that were in the carburetor were from an M35.

Everything is working great except for the accelerator pump. I may try to order one from carburetorparts.com and see if that will make a difference.

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley-885-FFG-Carburetor-Kit_p_677.html

The leather seal on the one I put in is just too big.
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
Here is what I'm reading in the TMs

TM-9-8024 October 1955; Carburetor Holley 885-FFG number R-683-A.

ORD 7 SNL G749; Carburetor Holley R-683-A Ord. P.N. G749-7411781

G749 ORD 8 Piston, accelerator pump G749-7529161 Mfg. PN: HOL-30R92A

Use gasket kit G742-7539069 after stock is completed use kit G749-7412431

Also, It looks like the carbs were used in the 60s on White and IH trucks. I see a listing for IH and Ford applications as well.
Dan
 
Last edited:

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
I just ordered the accelerator pump HOL-30R92A on Ebay. I will measure the diameter and post it upon arrival. Can you measure the diameter of your old one?
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
The part number to the carburetor rebuild kit I got is 00-753-9050-2910.

I called a carburetor rebuild shop in Tulsa and explained my problem. The man said to bring it in and we would find the right accelerator pump or fabricate one that will work. I like how he put that, so hopefully he can deliver.
 

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,903
2,698
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
G749 Holley

You know what they say, curiosity killed the carb.

I have the same kit and decided to pull "R" Piston Assy' 7529161 out of a spare carb to compare.

g749 carb 017.jpgg749 carb 026.jpgg749 carb 025.jpg

This is my first baby Holley so played with it while dismantling and found the old piston didn't move freely and the alignment would bind it. The return springs aren't very big so how free should the piston be moving?

g749 carb 021.jpgg749 carb 020.jpg

Got to the part where you guys needed to come over and get the piston out then found the wee 1/4" threaded shaft that holds it together. Need a wee 1/4" wrench for that one. Soon I'll be at the point where someone's going to need to put this back together.

g749 carb 022.jpgg749 carb 019.jpg

Used my tree calipers to get us a size and they are both big hand on the 6, little hand on the 10.

g749 carb 023.jpgg749 carb 024.jpg

The leather on the new one has relaxed so when you find out, tell us what the trick is getting it back to size?
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
Is that a Canadian Military kit? Mine looked the exact same. The jet openings and fuel metering parts had smaller openings than what was originally in my carb. I just cleaned up and reused the originals. I am going to get the carburetor rebuild guy's opinion on what is best.

We will solve this accelerator pump problem. Is the pump seal on the original one you pulled out a rubber cup? I can't tell from the pics.
 
Last edited:

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,903
2,698
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
I'm sure SuperDave grabbed that kit from Tower Park so probably not Canadian. I'll compare the rest soon, maybe even before next year.

The original one is leather. For the new one, Pops wondered if an ice water soak, oven or heat register drying process and a soak in WD40 would remind the leather of its former glorious size. Worth a try. Using a fine stone wheel to grind it down doesn't seem to work and on the other thread, simply removing the spring was a success.

If we can find a Nitrile seal that would replace the leather piece we'd be flying, or running at least. The hunt continues!
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
I tried sanding it down (helped a little), removing the spring, soaking in gas, soaking in PB Blaster, throwing across the garage and even cursing at it. Nothing worked. Didn't try the ice water and drying process.

A nitrile seal would be great and I did think of that, but none of the local parts stores carry a selection of them for me to look through to try to make one work. We'll get it figured out.
 

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,903
2,698
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
A Holley guru just told me to soak leather seals in auto transmission fluid for a few hours. I should have about 8 of these hiding in trucks and a few carb kits still on the shelf so I'll soak a new one and give up results right after the Oilers beat San Jose
tonight.rofl

I've got winch shaft guards finally on the line at a fresh fab facility for dabtl and the G749 kids so may have some carb time. If I get at it I'll try and get photos and check sizes.
 

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,903
2,698
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
G749 Holley Carb Kit

Found a minute before dinner and discovered a fork works as a screwdriver. With an adjustable wrench, tweezers, a fork and a coin.... a guy can take one apart before the roast is cooked.

g749 carb cel 021.jpgg749 carb cel 012.jpg

Like yours, the "Z" Tube YT 2285758 on my carb is different than the "Tube" supplied in the kit. It fits in the hole but the end looks like it has been ordained. The original tube is squeezed so if anyone knows what the "Tube" does....we can decide if it needs to be squeezed.
Everything else looks spectacular so whomever found these kits, and you know who you are, Thank you.

g749 carb cel 019.jpgg749 carb cel 017.jpgg749 carb cel 016.jpgg749 carb cel 015.jpg
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
Are all of the diameters of the openings in your original brass parts larger than the ones with the new kit? (Except for the crimped ends of the above.)
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks