1952 M135 W/Winch

[Another Ahab]

Chevy - The Early Years

I know with out them the gasket seals for a short time and then starts sucking in air I found this out on a Chevrolet 216 years ago . I had no idea new ones could be found .

 

[hendersond]

I re-used mine in both trucks. They looked like new. It is a fairly easy job until you separate the intake and exhaust manifolds. Heat, heat, heat. The 2 studs were good and the 2 bolts unthreaded and they separated. Had to clean out the non threaded holes with a 1/2" drill to get enough play to align the manifolds against the head.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I started working on prepping some metal parts to paint today. While doing so I decided to change the taillights to the more modern ones for visibility sake. I kind of don't like to do it, but would rather not get wrecked into.

 

[SturmTyger380]

I am going to try and replace my original black out tail light lenses with Gamma Goat lenses. Try searching for those. Seem easy to find. Alan

 

[USMC 00-08]

That may be a better way to go and would look more original. Will the Gamma Goat lenses just change out with the original M135 lenses or do we need the whole assembly?

 

[SturmTyger380]

They are the same size and will screw right in. I have noticed that some of the ones you see for sale don't come with the screws mounted on the license like the ones you will take off.

Some done come with the rubber seal either. Alan

 

[USMC 00-08]

Warm weather is finally here and I got some more work done on the truck. The spark plugs and wires were converted from civilian back to military. Thank you hendersond for the plugs!!!


The plug wires are off of a parts truck. The rubber coating was somewhat brittle and ugly so I took that off and used electrical tape to seal them off for now. I may coat them with Plasti Dip later on.


I found that my original distributor cap had a very small crack and spark was arcing where it was not supposed to. I changed that out with a good one off of a parts truck. Everything was installed, plugs gaped to .028, points set to .022 and the truck fired right up. I could tell a big difference for the better the way the engine was running! Not that it ran bad before, but this was really something.


The wife, kids and I took the truck for a test drive and even my wife noticed how much better and stronger the truck was running.

After we got home from the test drive, I started replacing the battery cables with really good ones from a parts truck and cleaning off ground points. I ran out of daylight before I was able to change out the connectors with military style ones that are listed in our new parts list.

I need to get another good distributor cap or two to keep on hand. Does anyone know of a part number for a new manufacture one or is Alpha Heaven the only source for these?

 

[USMC 00-08]

I have a question about exhaust temperatures. The other day when we were geting ready to leave to test my truck, my daughter was crawling up into the cab in the passenger side and grabbed ahold of the exhaust pipe that goes up the side of the cab. It was hot enough that it left a blister on her hand. She didn't say anything about it until the next day or so.

Is it normal for the exhaust pipe to be that hot that high up on the cab? I have not had the exhaust hooked up very long so I am just not sure. The truck had only been running at idle until it reached normal operating temp before we started driving.

The truck was sure running good, but if that is way too hot, I want to get the problem found and fixed.

 

[NDT]

Oh yes it gets hot, that's why it has the guard over it. That little 302 has to work really hard.

 

[Another Ahab]

I have a question about exhaust temperatures. The other day when we were geting ready to leave to test my truck, my daughter was crawling up into the cab in the passenger side and grabbed ahold of the exhaust pipe that goes up the side of the cab. It was hot enough that it left a blister on her hand. She didn't say anything about it until the next day or so.

That made me wince when I read it, USMC. Ouch! Your daughter is a trouper, and please tell her that I hope that all heals up for her real soon.

 

[hendersond]

It gets blister hot. There are 2 expanded metal heat shields, one on the side of the cab and the other is on the extension

 

[USMC 00-08]

The battery cables have been changed out with good ones and military ends put on. The battery hold downs that I was missing are from a parts truck. I am going to wire wheel the battery compartments and spray them with bed liner at some point.


These were added to the air tank drain-cocks after reading about them here. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...e-Preventive-Maintenance-Monthly-for-the-G749
Seemed like a good idea to me and would make draining the air tanks easier.


I also found these markings while sanding on the hood and bumper.

 

[Another Ahab]

These were added to the air tank drain-cocks after reading about them here. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...e-Preventive-Maintenance-Monthly-for-the-G749
Seemed like a good idea to me and would make draining the air tanks easier.
View attachment 553371View attachment 553372

That's a great idea.

Wouldn't it be handy if the concept was built into the original design, even; but then I don't mean to be ridiculous.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I agree. There is so much good information in that Preventative Maintenance Monthly for the G749!!

 

[USMC 00-08]

I have started going through the brakes on my middle axle and now have a question. Three of the four wheel cylinders are bad and the brakes need relined. I ordered four wheel cylinders, part #WC15306, which is a 1-3/8 bore. The original wheel cylinders on the truck are all 1-1/4 bore. When I did the front brakes a while back the 1-1/4 bore wheel cylinders were good enough to rebuild and reuse.

My question is, can I use 1-3/8 bore on one axle while using 1-1/4 bore on another without causing brakes to lock up or any other problems?

 

[hendersond]

I would not do it if it were me. Here is my thinking:
The airpack (if memory is correct) can put out up to 1,200 psi inside the line and pass it to the inside of each wheel cylinder.
A 1.25" wheel cylinder has an area of 1.226 sq. inches. x 1200 psi =1471 pounds of force produced from each cup.
A 1.375" wheel cylinder has an area of 1.484 sq. inches. X1200psi =1780 pounds of force produced from each cup.T
hat is 309 pounds of force difference for each cup.
Take that a step further. There are 4 cups at each wheel, that is 1236 more pounds of force per wheel.
I think of a log splitter. What has more push, a 2"' diameter ram or a 6"diameter ram?
That is just my take. I'm interested to see if anyone has real world experience?

 

[m1010plowboy]

I have started going through the brakes on my middle axle and now have a question. Three of the four wheel cylinders are bad and the brakes need relined. I ordered four wheel cylinders, part #WC15306, which is a 1-3/8 bore. The original wheel cylinders on the truck are all 1-1/4 bore. When I did the front brakes a while back the 1-1/4 bore wheel cylinders were good enough to rebuild and reuse.

My question is, can I use 1-3/8 bore on one axle while using 1-1/4 bore on another without causing brakes to lock up or any other problems?

I could answer that for you, but I'm a landscaper. Do you have a topsoil question? Pascal's theory would make a guy think it would simply apply less force to the front brakes and the return springs don't care what size the cylinder is so .....I honestly don't know.

I wish I had more mechanical background or could read because I missed the part in the book where it said "Drain the air out of the system before bleeding the brakes". The brake fluid will spray 2' straight out and get in your eyes if a guy doesn't know what he's doing. It is not as damaging to the skin as the MSDS sheets says it is but it can turn your hands a rosy red. Windex does remove brake fluid from your glasses.

I don't know anyone that has tried the bigger cylinder in back. You're not using the truck to haul anything heavy, ever are you? It seems like an upgrade to the rear brakes but I'd be better discussing the phosphorus levels in your lawn needed for early spring root development.

I'm sure someone will walk us through this.

 

[USMC 00-08]

I found this thread. It was late last night and I guess I overlooked it.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?79598-GMC-wheel-cylinder-parts

Plowboy...are you using the Wagner 15306 that you posted a picture of? Those are what I ordered.

If I am not mistaken, Nattileather used the 1-3/8 bore?? Or did I read that wrong.

 

[hendersond]

That is what I did too. Replaced them all the same. Works great. I don't know about mixing????

I also spent the $78 and did the master cylinder at the same time.
Did the hoses a few months later after much frustration. 20/20 hindsight...

 

[USMC 00-08]

Did you get a new master cylinder or a rebuild kit? Where did you get what you got?