• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

1952 M135 W/Winch

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,903
2,698
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
I found this thread. It was late last night and I guess I overlooked it.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?79598-GMC-wheel-cylinder-parts

Plowboy...are you using the Wagner 15306 that you posted a picture of? Those are what I ordered.

If I am not mistaken, Nattileather used the 1-3/8 bore?? Or did I read that wrong.
Wagner 15306 is what we use and we'll need more. If you had nothing but time you could do a little experiment and try it out around the yard.
Otherwise it's change out the fronts to 15306 or hunt down 8 - 1 1/4 for the rears, which is less work. Can you find the 1 1/4" cylinders?

Looks like we had a little water in a wheel cylinder over the winter. It froze and possibly popped a boot spilling stuff all over my shiny rim paint. When I bled the lower left wheel cylinder it was a rusty red squirt at first. We're tearing through the TM's PM's and I'm sure we can use some more large bore if you want to make them go away.


Now that I'm storing outdoors I also see the need to change to a better brake fluid or a heated shop.
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
I did a lot of looking online and at a truck parts store today and there are no 1-1/4 cylinders to be had that will fit. I will have to replace all of them with 15306.

If I need to get rid of them, you are first in line.

Hopefully this truck parts store can reline my brake shoes. Should know tomorrow. The place that did my front brakes just went out of business.

I am keeping all of the old wheel cylinders in the hope that some day I will have all the machining equipment I need to bore them out and reline them.
 

topo

Well-known member
908
251
63
Location
farmington NM
I have used White post Restorations for relining master cylinders and wheel cylinders before and no problems . Check there web site .
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
Sam Weiner I think Ohio for 1 master. Oshkosh equipment for the other master. I think they were $80-100 each new.
Wheel cylinders, I have to think where else I got them.
Brake shoes? How many? I'm sure I have some.
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
I will probably need 8 brake shoes, but won't know for sure until I tear down the rear axle. There is a place called Weldon Truck Parts in Tulsa that has a brake relining facility in Oklahoma City. They sent in the 4 shoes I had to see if they can reline them. Still waiting to hear back from them.

Someone did not put the cork seals in and the brakes were soaked in gear oil. Sad thing is, they had very little wear, but are ruined now.

topo...I will check with White Post. Thank you for that lead.
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
The work continues on the middle axle brakes. All the parts are in, things are cleaned up, primed, greased and ready to go back together.

100_2482.jpg100_2483.jpg

Do any of you use anything in addition to the cork seal that goes in the slot? Use anything different? I have the cork seals but didn't know if I should add some sort of gasket maker or something to make sure nothing ever leaks in.

Will hopefully get the middle axle done this weekend and start tearing down the rear axle for the same treatment.
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
That is beautiful! I throw in a little extra form a gasket around the cork seal. Allows me to sleep better. I don't know if it really does anything?
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
The brakes on the middle axle are done. Following hendersond's lead, some gasket maker was put in around the cork seal.
100_2489.jpg100_2490.jpg100_2488.jpg100_2491.jpg100_2492.jpg

On to the rear axle......
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
I put a water pump on a restored early corvette once. Well actually twice. The first time I used "ample" Permatex blue. The guy said "You are sure using a lot of that stuff. Can you use too much?" And I replied "Naw the extra just squeezes out and you peel it off with a screwdriver."

A few minutes later he returned because the water pump must have been defective since it overheated right away. I got another water pump the next day and took the defective one off. The openings were closed off by Permatex blue. Funny, the same amount that squeezes out also squeezes in.

Take my advise with caution buddy!
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
If these are actual "cork" seals like an old valve cover gasket on a small block chevy, I always soaked them with that copper spray gasket before installing. Spray them down with a vengence, let it soak in a bit, then install. Never had a leak with that method (on small block chevys anyways).
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
I took the rear axle apart today. All of the brakes on this truck have been coated in oil and grease when I pull them apart. Is this only because the cork seals were not in place? Differentials overfull at some point? Any ideas?

The front brakes were the same way too when I redid them. I want to fix whatever it is so this never happens again. I am rebuilding by the book, but want to make sure there is not something else I should be looking at.

This is the passenger side rear brakes and is probably the worst one as far as the grease and oil coat. There was no cork seal to be found when I opened it up. The other side was not quite as bad and it did have a cork seal. Somewhat deteriorated but was there.
0503151801.jpg
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
Do your differential covers have 2 fill plugs or just 1?

Never mind it has 2. If you swap covers from front to back the things get flipped upside down and you use the other plug for the oil level. You don't suppose they pulled the top plug and pumped it full like you would on a car or pickup truck? The axle tubes would be full too. As with Permatex blue, more is better right?
 
Last edited:

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,903
2,698
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
I took the rear axle apart today. All of the brakes on this truck have been coated in oil and grease when I pull them apart. Is this only because the cork seals were not in place? Differentials overfull at some point? Any ideas?

The front brakes were the same way too when I redid them. I want to fix whatever it is so this never happens again. I am rebuilding by the book, but want to make sure there is not something else I should be looking at.

This is the passenger side rear brakes and is probably the worst one as far as the grease and oil coat. There was no cork seal to be found when I opened it up. The other side was not quite as bad and it did have a cork seal. Somewhat deteriorated but was there.
View attachment 557811
That is just ugly. Is it definitely diff fluid? Did ya smell it? Diff fluid stinks so bad it fits in the diesel category for bad smells. Ugly, stinky job,.... wish I was there.

On the bonus side, it should come apart easy all lubed up like that! Your seal should work good until the next maintenance interval, when we get to do it all over again.

Great pics, hurry and get it cleaned up so you can take more!
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
You don't suppose they pulled the top plug and pumped it full like you would on a car or pickup truck? The axle tubes would be full too. As with Permatex blue, more is better right?
It is possible that it happened at some point in its life. I changed all the fluid right after I got it and put in the amount the book calls for. I don't see any in the tubes but can see where some has been...I think.

That is just ugly. Is it definitely diff fluid?
It is diff fluid with some dot 3 mixed in there too. Mostly diff fluid and grease from the bearings getting washed out. The bearings and races are good so I am happy about that.

Maybe it is just a combination of no cork seal and differentials being too full at some point. The inner and outer hub seals look good still.
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,171
29
48
Location
Galesville, WI
Whatever it is, you are doing a good job!

I don't remember, but is it possible to put the outer seal in backwards? Just trying to cover all possibilities.
 

USMC 00-08

Well-known member
1,182
179
63
Location
Skiatook, OK
Thank you. I think it is possible to put them in backwards, but so far they have all been in the right way.

We should come up with something that seals up this whole area 100_2492.jpg after the locking tabs and lock nut are in place. Maybe held in place by the flange? Surely there is a better way to keep all the differential fluid out.

A project for another day maybe.
 
Top