1952 M35 Gasser repair and build

[rustystud]

If you keep the radiator cap loose you will loose cooling ability. Now if it is the water pump then it might allow more coolant flow through the radiator but really you should buy a new water pump. Actually these older water pumps are rebuildable by yourself if you can get the water seals. Either way I would take the water pump off just to verify it is working properly and then you can also look into the block water passages and see if any thing is blocking them. Another thing that can happen is the sand from when the block was cast could have gotten impacted and never came out during machining. A engine overheat can cause the sand to come loose and then fill the bottom of the block with sandy gunk. I have actually seen this happen several times. All to 1950's engines. My best friends Dodge 2 ton truck with a early Hemi had this happen to him too. I was with him on the road trip when it actually happened.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I am pulling the water pump now, and also forgot to mention, which goes with your sand theory in a way, is I have drained the coolant twice in this engine, once when I got it(replaced with new, but it looked clean) and once at the beginning of the year when I did the exhaust manifold(studs entered the water jacket). I reused that coolant, and it came out clean, but when I drained it the other day so I could put my bypass pipe in to check flow, there was definitely some dark matter in it, rust or dirt.

Anyways I'll update later after my inspection.


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[Kaiser67M715]

never pulled the water pump, need to get a rebuild kit or at least the rear seal for the plate, and because I didn't have one, and I can't have the deuce down for a couple days. but the coolant is definitely dirtier, so a flush is in order(don't think I ever did a flush when I first got it, only new coolant). I did pull the water manifold, it was a little dirty, and I tested the thermostat to make sure it was opening all the way. both are cleaned and good, respectively. there was a small amount of scale from what I could see.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Well I solved it or at least the lack of running right when hot-I had not made a vent line for the distributor, so it was probably getting too hot, right now it's idling at 180 degrees, wouldn't do that before. I had the line, just never made it and put it on.....so you guys can classify that however you want,but she seems to be doing good. Still going to flush the cooling system

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[Kaiser67M715]

Guess I should say too, that it wasn't just the vent line but that I also forgot to make sure the fording valve was open. I did run it twice with the vent line but it didn't seem to help, until I realized this morning during my pre run inspection the valve was in the shut position.

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[Another Ahab]

Maybe a little check-list on the dash (or in the glove box) would help. But then maybe you don't really need it.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Maybe a little check-list on the dash (or in the glove box) would help. But then maybe you don't really need it.

I really should make a checklist and go through it. there's a few small things I have been pushing, have a small leak between engine and tranny, and it looks like it is more tranny, but still possible it is the rear main. only about 2-3 drops every time I run it-only drips when turned off that I've noticed. but the whole inside of the bell-housing is oil soaked--so as long as I don't start leaving puddles, I'm leaving it till I pull the tranny for an inspection of number 2 gear/syncro. a torn knuckle boot(keeping it running became the priority) and a leaking rear pinion seal(again not huge, but noticeable after a run)

and I'm definitely saying that vent line helped- I had thought I had a fuel/spark issue, but wasn't able to find it(had spark, and had fuel) and that's when I started noticing the temperature spikes, and immediately started thinking cooling system plugged or failing somehow which was causing the carb to vapor lock, or something along that. just being young and naive, jumping to conclusions and solutions.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Quick video, shot on my Iphone 4, so not great quality, but OK. this was after arriving home and after idling 2-3 minutes, temperature rose to around 180. I actually left it idling another 5-7 minutes after the video, ran fine, temp was at 190; couple pops out the exhaust, but nothing that seemed concerning. more concerning was the disappearing and re-appearing brake fluid- thread here-> http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?156610-Brake-fluid-Question

and Video
https://youtu.be/gxoNKgOJGT8

 

[Another Ahab]

Purring like a kitten.

 

[rustystud]

Did you ever purge the cooling system ? What I would do is totally drain the system and then put in the strongest cleaner you can find and run it for a couple of days. Then make up an adapter to allow you to use a air-blow nozzle at the thermostat housing. With the thermostat removed and all hoses to the radiator removed put a garden hose connected to the water pump. Then with full water pressure on the garden hose blast some air into the system. This is how we did it at the radiator repair shops. It will remove any loose scale that would normally not come out. Do this purge several times, allowing the water to build-up each time. Then apply the air to the inlet side of the water pump and blast away.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I plan on purging the cooling system this weekend.


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[Kaiser67M715]

Back to square one. Still doesn't run right hot, I'm firmly set on ignition, I ran a flush, cooling system seems fine, but it still dies at an idle in the yard.

It was extremely hot and humid(90's and probably 100% humidity), I ran the truck more on Saturday(cooler and less humid) around town, and while it did die on me, it sat an idled a good 6-7 minutes-after multiple stops, total run time of about 1 hour, today I made it home and barely got it to the parking spot-about 20 minutes tops

Going through ignition system now, may throw on the spare distributor I have, but it is hard to test stuff when you can't touch anything cause you'll burn yourself.

Anyways I'll update as I can-still hoping to bring it to Weare, even if I need to stop and let her cool down 20 times, and I have extra points and stuff for the ignition system.


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[rustystud]

Have you ever looked at the engine running at night ? Try it without a flashlight and see if you can see any stray sparks coming off the distributor cap or condensers or spark plug wires. Also did you ever take off the timing gears or advance the distributor ? If it is advanced this could cause extra heat and no idling ability.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

No sparks or anything at night- I have looked-although with the shielded wires it is incredibly hard to see sparks; my original wires were crap when warmed up, and although I did the same in the dark test, it was holding the wires up to the block and watching for a good spark that solved that issue.

I did time the engine to 4 atdc per the manual, starts up a little easier and a little better power. No pinging under full throttle and high gear starts(2nd to 5th) fuel pump checked out fine. And unless the fuel is overheating and overcoming the needle valve, that leaves the ignition system.

I need to test the coil, as that would be the most likely candidate for hot issues-


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[mobileauto2000]

Check the charging system voltage. I had a Chevy that would run good cold then start losing power and running rough. charging system voltage was way high. replaced the points again and the voltage regulator and that was that.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

making a little progress, had to do the knuckle boot-best done with tire off; I tried with the tire on, but my head wanted to be right where the spring pack was. inner clamp was a pain, outer went one very smooth. and FYI, some of the new clamps vendors sell(can't remember who I bought the boot and clamp set from) they don't line up, so when you tighten the screw and nut, the clamp would end up being offset-not good-I just reused the old clamps, new screws, and old nuts.

off to check voltage per mobileauto2000's recommendation, then I will be running a wire front to rear for the reverse lights. as everything seemed to check out fine. breaker point condenser test was iffy, but so was it on the 3 others I bought, and the previous 2 I had. I swapped it out with a new one anyways, cause I couldn't figure all 6 of them where bad.

oh, and I got my buzzer for the low air working...I had to disconnect it, and I need to put a toggle in so I can shut it off for engine starts, because I can't tell if the engine starts or not-can't even hear the starter turn the motor over.

 

[mobileauto2000]

(oh, and I got my buzzer for the low air working...I had to disconnect it, and I need to put a toggle in so I can shut it off for engine starts, because I can't tell if the engine starts or not-can't even hear the starter turn the motor over.)

I used a momantary off switch in the deuce so I can't forget to turn it back on.

Also if its not been mentioned, Check the dist shaft for any side to side play, a little play is a lot at the points gap.

Good luck

 

[Kaiser67M715]

(oh, and I got my buzzer for the low air working...I had to disconnect it, and I need to put a toggle in so I can shut it off for engine starts, because I can't tell if the engine starts or not-can't even hear the starter turn the motor over.)

I used a momantary off switch in the deuce so I can't forget to turn it back on.

Also if its not been mentioned, Check the dist shaft for any side to side play, a little play is a lot at the points gap.

Good luck

already checked for shaft play, all good there. and voltage checked out all right 28.4/28.5- maybe I'll lower it a bit later, but for now I think I'm all right.

I tried to find a momentary, but no luck-heavy duty starter momentary, but didn't need that. I'll be ordering a momentary later, but for right now I have toggle hooked up. but I think I need a new air switch, had to wiggle the wires coming out of it to get the buzzer to go off. it is in a terrible spot and I burnt my hand plugging it back in, so maybe I just haven't been able to get the wires in right.

here is a pic of my underdash panel-It just barely hits the stick in reverse, over 1/2" clearance in 2nd, and 4th. left side is my reverse, right next to that I put the toggle for the buzzer. on the right I have a toggle and indicator for the outlet, and mounted to the backside a fuse block for my 12v accessories. my 24v to 12v converter I mounted to the side of the glove box. I do need to find some small 24v indicator lights, one for the reverse, and one for the converter-which I need to wire in a relay and secondary switch so that is not active all the time. just small ones, the little 1/4" button head I used for the outlet is perfect size, but that is only 12v.



tomorrow I'll be off to the Weare show. I planned in a couple stops so if she gets too hot, I can cool her down then get back on the road. but so far the misfire only happens after a few minutes at idle, so barring any excessive traffic light stops, I should really be fine.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

I got to and from the Weare rally alright- it died coming into the school the rally is held-went around the corner, clutch in, on the brakes-then realized the truck wasn't running- same thing happened when I got home- pulled into the yard-clutch in, it died-NO misfire or any indication-other then it being slightly quieter. the engine idle is so quiet the gear whine overpowers it-so I really have to strain to hear it. I will say I got the throttle pull readjusted, so I did use that on the way back home-2 clicks out-kept idle at about 800-1000rpm for traffic lights- so either that is enough to overcome the issue, or ..... ghosts.

I went on one trail run- died once at a turnaround point(my thanks and apology for the others on that run) and then again when turning back onto 114-both times clutch was in, and I was slowing down-but the ice cream run not one issue(I think it was about a 45 min run one way)

Some people mentioned power drains-so have been keeping my eye out and making sure everything is going good, rechecking connections. My dad was following me back today and said I turned on my lights the same time his automatics came on...except I didn't hit my lights(stop light only for directional and brakes) so it sounds like something in my light harness is drawing power when it shouldn't-which would also probably explain my dim low beams(look like 24 volt headlights on a 6volt system - high-beams work perfectly fine; very bright) so much investigating is to be done- I will be going through and maybe replacing or at least adding extra grounds-I will have to test the alternator-that was near that harness fire-same with 3-way light switch-so if something got hot and is shorting now when hot; alternator unable to put the amps out-etc. etc I just hope that I will be focusing my attention in the right area now-this will be a very good running truck if I can solve this one issue.

 

[rustystud]

I think I know what your problem is. Due to your faulty wiring your loosing voltage to the coil. If you run a designated wire from the batteries just for the coil I think your engine dying problem will be solved. At least until you can fix your wiring harness.