1953 M135 Rebuild Project.

[tlmob1]

Thanks Hendersond for the assist on adding pics.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Ahhhhh, pictures! Soothing.

Nice straight fuel tank hot digity dog. You have some fender work as usual with that high tech skirt fold trapping dirt in just the right places. The truck looks real clean and much better then others I've seen.

Seeing a white truck on stand brings back lotsa memories,

What's next?

 

[nattieleather]

Ahhhhh, pictures! Soothing.

Seeing a white truck on stand brings back lotsa memories,

You know it! I had my M211 on jack stands for a whole summer one year while I redid the brakes and barrings etc. One I got it all done it stopped great! Then only thing is I was parked on black top and the jackstands dug into the blacktop about 2 inches when I was all done.

 

[tlmob1]

M135 Fuel tank and Pump Housing

Just uploaded some pics of my Fuel Tank and Pump Housing.

 

[tlmob1]

Go to my Photo Albums and you can see my lastest pics. Now I gotta tackle the rear axle to locate the source of the oil leak. Any tips???

 

[m1010plowboy]

G-749 Re-build Project Phases

The guru that helped me with the 'catastrophic' portions of the re-build showed us a nice tip on removing the front axles.

AXLES

The front axles have 2 additional threaded holes in the cap. Once your bolts are out of the axle cap, insert 2 correct size bolts into the 'extra' holes. Alternate tightening them which forces the axle and 'cup washers' away from the hub and gives you room to tap the axle back in, allowing the cup washers to basically fall off.

MANAGING LEAKS

The NOS front axle inner seals are notorious for allowing gear oil into the hub. Some of this could be caused by sitting so once you're running, run often to keep things lubed. Additional causes can be internal pressure once the diffs get hot.

a) ensure all lines coming off diffs are clear and diffs can breathe. I used the combo turkey baster and hi-tech lips and blow method after using line wrenches to remove and not wreck any lines.
b) consider 2 inner axle seals up front. (see pics) right or wrong the new seals I found are narrower and made with new rubber.....so I doubled them up in the space normally meant for one. I'll let you know in 50 years if they held up but so far, no leaky.

I wanted to paint all exposed metal (wheel cylinders) but my mechanic friend thought I was nuts trying to detail the inside of a brake assembly. He's right but I still managed to get primer on most things. I scrubbed one set of brake parts for 6 hours before I could get adjusters to move and prep for primer.

Be patient and enjoy the tear-down. You're gonna be running soon, real soon.

The TM 9-8024 is handy to have on hand.

 

[tlmob1]

Awesome pics. i was trying to remove the center cap on the left rear axle. I removed the nuts and as per the manual I tapped the center with a 5 lb sledgehammer, nothing. I used a 3/4 rebar to slide through the eye and hit it with the sledgehammer, all I did was to managed to bend the rebar. I used penetrating fluid on the bolts to loosing the sleeves. Will try again on saturday.

 

[tburk49760]

Try smacking on the perimeter of the axle Housing near each conical washer just enough to loosen the washer, then pull washers out and it should come right out there.

 

[hndrsonj]

Dang M1010plowboy, that looks good!

 

[tlmob1]

Just removed the left rear axle.

 

[tlmob1]

I finally removed the axle and both axle retaining nuts w/washer. The drum won't slide off. I think i know how to access the adjusters, but I have to find it on my digital manual.

 

[butch atkins]

TM 9-8024 pg 434-470,paragraph 234-257. Service Brake System.Good luck on your project

 

[tlmob1]

Thanks.

 

[tlmob1]

Here are some new pics. I was able to remove the brake hub to gain access to the brake shoes.

 

[butch atkins]

Don't forget that there is a small cork seal that goes in the key way underneath the adjusting nuts,if it is not in place the oil from the diff. Will wash the grease off of the wheel bearings and fill the brake drum with oil.On E bay right now there are some for sale.I bought several as spares because they are cheap and they absolutely have to be in there or you will continue to have oil leak problems. TM 9-8024 pgs 479-482 .Good luck on your project.

 

[tlmob1]

I found the cork when I was taking the washer out. Catman was kind enough to give me some cork material. He has helped me tremendously. I do accept every and all knowledge, since this is my first MV and rebuild. Pretty soon I'm taking my fuel tank to a radiator shop for a acid bath and seal coat. I have to fabricate the bolts to hold the tank straps to the bracket.

 

[CatMan]

Butch is right. I was not making that up about those like itty bitty cork strips. It looks mor like grease that brake fluid. I would still recommend refilling the brake master cylinder and pumping up the brakes before you disconnect anything. See where its leaking first.

But wait untill the weather warms up. 10 below zero F tonight. Yikes! Plowboy thinks that's a heat wave in Edmonton AB.

Cat Man

 

[m1010plowboy]

Things come apart easier when they're frozen. We're hanging around -20c, -4f and hiding indoors.

Good to see some progress. Have you got replacement parts?

 

[tlmob1]

Just put some degreaser on the brake parts and used a parts brush to work it in. I'll check back tomorrow or saturday to see if it made a difference.

 

[tlmob1]

Was given a place in Green Bay that will clean out and seal my fuel tank. The est price wasn't bad either. Will drop it of some time next month or so.