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1953 M38A1 Barn Find

IFAW50

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Hello!

I recently acquiried a 1953 M38A1 that I affectionately dubbed Willy. The Odometer is showing 44,029.4 miles which I believe to be actual. It was completely rebuilt in 1968 & was apparently parked shortly after that. One of the tires is Dated 1952!!! I decided that it is too nice to even touch & that it should be left as original as possible. It is currently not running & I can't get the engine to turn over by hand. I did put some oil in the cylinders but I haven't tried it since then.

Any refferels or help with Identifying the history of this MD would be Greatly Appreciated.

The Serial Number Is: 63422.


I



Thanks For Looking & Have A Nice Day! Take Care, Jeff :)
 

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NDT

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Welcome to Steel Soldiers. Nice find! As far as history, you are in much better shape than most of us trying to figure this out on 1950's vehicles, as the unit markings on the bumpers are present and legible! I see TX-NG which is Texas National Guard. So at one point your A1 was here in my state. Not sure about the blue-green paint, looks like a farmer may have done that. For maximum revenue, put that on Ebay and not CL.
 

mutt1966

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If it was me I would try to free up the engine first means a lot when selling, it looks to be all there by that I mean the expensive stuff..... Is there a Data Tag on the passenger side rear wheel well if its there those numbers will match the data plates number on the dash as far as the blue paint looks like USAF Strata Blue painted over the original OD Semi-Gloss
 

rtk

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Good restoration candidate for somebody . Looks like it had a interesting military life , OD , and strata blue , what do the Data Plates say ?
 

zout

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You have a LOT of expensive items attached to that jeep in the condition it is in. BY far it is worth spending a little money on to get it running. There is now a thread on how to free up an engine using caution with simple lubricants.

Unless your just a total neat freak - you could have yourself a great running jeep in no time. OR if you want more than even what the factory put out to the troopers you could do a full blown restoration that might take you years even if you complete it.
1. Simple fixer upper - have fun an drive it
2. GO anal and spend yrs restoring it more than how it came out of the factory spending big $$$$$ mo la.
3. Like some folks we run into - ahhhhhhh I always planned to restore it while it sits in the field and rots away thinking they have something rare on their hands and will never sell it.

Get it simply running and operational - work on it as you go along while your still having FUN with it.
But then again - I have no clue what I am talking about unless you look around on the SS site and see what I have done to help other folks as I suggested.

If you think its too far gone I'll give ya $50 for it.
 

61sleepercab

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To free engine, soak cylinders in PB Blaster and let set for a while. Take valve cover off, soak valve guides and tap or pry on valve stems to make sure valves are not stuck.TRUST ME YOU DO NOT WANT TO TURN OVER ENGINE WITH STUCK VALVES AS CAMSHAFT PURCHASE MAY BE IN YOUR FUTURE. Try crankshaft pulley nut for turning or remove starter and pry with bar on flywheel ring gear teeth gently.Once crank moves, move in both directions more degrees a little at a time. A unit with a loose motor will bring more at sale with just a little work and time on your time. Mark
 

Warthog

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Guys please do not turn this into a For Sale or Want Ad or the whole thread will go into the File13
 

IFAW50

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The Identification Plate On The Body Does Match The Number On The Main Plate. I have put some lubricant in the cylinders but I haven't tried it again. I Will Also Check & Make Sure That The Valves Aren't Stuck. I Already Put Some Lubricant On Them Too.

If the transmission is stuck, wouldn't that keep the engine from turning over?

I Don't Know If The Clutch Is Operational Or What Position It's In Yet Either.

Willy Is Needy But He's Really Cool!
 
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rtk

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Keep up the oiling of the cylinders and valve train . After you are sure none of the valves are frozen , put a breaker bar on the crankshaft nut and GENTLY try and give it a go . The other little problem is the clutch could be stuck to the flywheel , which is a another issue . Step on the clutch and see what happens and you should be able to shift the trans unless the shift rods are frozen/seized . As they say voyage of discovery ! good luck Bob k
 

mutt1966

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Your trans shifter looks to be in 1st and it wouldnt be the first time Ive seen a T-90 filled with water civilian or military, I'd pull the top off of the trans just to see if there is any water in there but make sure you put the shift lever in neutral first..
 

IFAW50

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The Jeep rolls so it can't be in first gear. I took the shifter off and there is no water in the tranny. The main shaft rotates freely but the gears that the shift lever move seem to be stuck. Maybe the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. I put some more oil in the cylinders, removed the starter, & tried to turn the engine over with the flywheel, but It Is Still A No Go On Turning It Over. :(
 

IFAW50

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I'm already starting to get tired of worrying about what to do with Willy.
The only hope that I have of ever getting him going is to try to trade the drive train & 24 volt stuff to someone that has an operational, regular Hurricane 4 with the Tranny/transfer case. I hate to do something that seems so counter productive but my situation doesn't leave me much choice at this time. I'd love to drive if but I'm thinking at this point I'd rather find somebody that can take care of the stuff he needs than to mess with it.
 

Scar59

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Neat find, patience is the key, take your time. Mix up a little witch's brew, ATF, kerosene, and a little Marvel Mystry oil, and fill the cylindrers and let it set a couple of days. PB Blaster on the valve stems, Use a long breaker bar and work the crank pully nut back and forth. It may take a good bit of leverage to get it to release. It works on old tractors left outside, your pics of the engine compartment looks promising.
 

IFAW50

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Ufortunately, I have zero funds for this project, or any other project for that matter...
It was just one of those deals you didn't think you should pass up. I have Zero Cash invested but I let my emotions get involved & I have about 5,300.00 Trade Wise in it. Go ahead & laugh, I deserve it... But I had Zero Cash in the trades too! I've been restoring all types of vehicles for over 35 years as a hobby & never did it for the money. Yeah, I might have back slid a little on this trade, or just straight up fell down, but It Is What It Is!
I started out with putting kerosene in the cylinders about two weeks ago, then added ATF about a week later. I then put some more ATF in it before I tried moving the flywheel yesterday. There is no nut, or threads, on the crank shaft either. Just two broken set screws where some wiesenhiemer went to banging on the pully. That wasn't me either, lol!

And those photos are the Before photos. I have scrubbed it down pretty good & it looks considerably better now! I'll post new photos as soon as I can.
 
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IFAW50

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Easy Come, Easy Go...

I Have Had Some Ridiculous Offers For Willy By Several Weasels Trying To Get Something For Nothing.

Hey Mister! Will You Trade For A One Horned Goat & A Bicycle With A Bent Rim?

He Is No Longer Available Anyway.

Easy Come, Easy Go...
 

saddamsnightmare

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October 31st, 2014.

The best way to free the engine up is to pull the head, and the crankcase pan, and squirt everything with Automatic Transmission Fluid. Then gently tap on the pistons with an oak 4"X4"every day. Sooner or later it will break free and then disassemble and then overhaul. I did this on a Model T engine that was open to the elements for 18-20 years and had no trouble getting it to run. The ATF follows the smallest cracks and will work its way into the bearings and ring-cylinder interfaces better then just about anything else you can buy. Good luck, barn find is interesting but it would look, and sell better, restored, or you might enjoy driving it as the M38A is the sister to the early CJ-5.:p
 
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