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1954 M37 Engine Bay

wsucougarx

Well-known member
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Washington State
Going to look at an M37 tomorrow. Owner sent me pic but looks like a few things are missing? Air filter missing and looks like the 24 volt regulator is gone as well. Looks to have an aftermarket alternator....hmmm. Owner says it hasn't ran in just over a year due to electrical issues. What do you guys think? They say it has 41,000 miles on the meter. You guys see anything else missing that I'm not seeing? Is the carb original or is that an aftermarket? I'm wanting to restore this truck to the 1954 original parts or at least upto 1968 standards. Please advise. Sorry I haven't looked around for the TM's as I have less than 8 hours from now to driving to the location. Looking for the M37 experts to chime in;-)
 

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Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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The defrost ductwork is nice.

Yes, like NDT said, she has been 12volted.

Not hard to put back, just time consuming and $$$. If you get her for a decent price and the body doesn't need much work, it isn't a show stopper.
 

rtk

Well-known member
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Lockport N.Y.
Looks to be the basic 12 volt conversion , all the Vent lines are gone , carb is from a civilian PW , figure in starter , generator , regulator , distributor , oil pump , gauges ? . Figure a wire harness , plus all sorts of bulbs . how is the sheet metal ? figure all this in the price as they say .
 

papabear

GA Mafia Imperial 1SG
13,520
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Location
Columbus, Georgia
Carb, gen, dist, starter all wrong. She's been 12 volt-ized.
I agree, and add in the voltage regulator, headlights etc., not having been run for a year(?)....I'm seeing a $600 truck here and thats assuming the body is in at lease "fair" condition.
 

cobra5

Active member
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Stevensville, Montana
Most likely the engine is from a civilian power wagon of the era. Check the head on the forward drivers side for T245 in the beginning of the number. If it doesn't start with it, then it is a civilian block.
 

rtk

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Lockport N.Y.
I agree with Cobra 5 , probably a Civilian block , would explain the 12 volt conversion , if that's the case , it would bring the price down a LOT !
 

wsucougarx

Well-known member
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Location
Washington State
Thank you so much! I opted to hold out on buying this truck due to the expertise in this thread. You guys are outstanding! I'm going to hopefully find a winched version (just like what everyone else is looking for...hahaha). You guys saved me 7 hours of driving and 7 hours of complaining from 3 very bored kids;-).
 

vtdeucedriver

Well-known member
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Location
Vermont
Thank you so much! I opted to hold out on buying this truck due to the expertise in this thread. You guys are outstanding! I'm going to hopefully find a winched version (just like what everyone else is looking for...hahaha). You guys saved me 7 hours of driving and 7 hours of complaining from 3 very bored kids;-).[/
I am ashamed that because of 3 pics were shown and "experts" chimed in because its not still 24 volt?! Are you kidding?? What if this truck has a straight tailgate, mint bed and solid fenders??? Converting back to 24 volt is nothing then! Now you experts tell me how many t-245's you seen converted???? I've seen a fair amount!!! You know the civilian block has a pressed In oil fill tube??? The245 does not and I can't see in the picture what it has.
to the poster, do yourself a favor and go to www.g741.org
plenty of info there and you will only help yourself with the great info there. Some of the guys here are there but I think you will get a better opinion. Get more pictures!
 

rtk

Well-known member
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Lockport N.Y.
I don't think anybody said not to buy it , just know what you are getting and what it would cost to make right , depends on what you want . There are a LOT of M37's around , I ALWAYS say BUY as MUCH truck as you can saves money in the long run .
 

EMD567

Driver for the Ga Mafia
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Aiken SC
Only thing I see is the 12 volt conversion. Air cleaner may be sitting in the cab, for all we know. I would have to see more pics of the cab, body, tires, etc before passing judgement. I know I paid 2250 for a good running truck with bed rust issues. ****, the brake system on mine has set me back 500 dollars.
 

Tuko

New member
85
1
0
Location
CT
Probably better off with 12 volt considering the price/availability of 24v stuff as long as your not going for a 100% restoration. If you are doing a 100% resto then for sure you can afford new old stock 24v stuff anyways, prob gonna need it
 
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