Well, the last couple days I have gotten up the gumption to do something to the 54 other than look at it in the mornings as I sip my coffee.
Yesterday I cleaned out the crap that was in the tank, pulled all of the 12v electric pumps off of the truck, pulled all of the strange filters off the truck, and bought 25' of fuel hose to begin un-screwing the fuel system. The fuel system now bears some similarity to Figure 12, (TA 031102) in TM9-2320-209-34P (I will refer to this TM as TM-1 in the rest of this post). For some reason the shutoff valve (item 13) was bypassed, so I have kept it bypassed for now. It appears that this truck does have the vent line shutoff in figure 10, TA 031100 of TM-1.
It appears that the P.O. got ticked at the governor lines, so he cut them off and they were laying on the side of the engine bay. I figure since it is just regulating atmospheric air the truck should still run without the governor connected, so I left the nipples bare. The governor lines are shown in figure 113 of TM9-2320-209-20-2 (referred to as TM-2 for the rest of this post).
I pumped the priming lever shown in figure 117 of TM-2 for about 20 minutes and it never drew a drop out of the gas can I sat next to the pump on the ground. So I elected to go ahead and crank the truck to see if the mechanical advantage of the truck would draw fuel up the line. I traced the starter cable, and slaved the 54' off of the 72' with jumper cables and started cranking until my friend (standing on the fenderwell) screamed that fuel was coming out. Well then! Fuel is indeed getting pulled up! PROGRESS! I love it!
We connected the fuel line to the carb, and started cranking away. Nada. Not even a sputter. So it was time to get out the trusty DMM and start tracing the harness.
Sliding under the dash to find the main bus line from the battery to the ignition and generator lines revealed a multitude of sins that I didn't even consider. Someone has had a high old time under the dash with a pair of dikes, wire nuts, and butt splices. Let's also not forget that the original cloth wrapped wire has completely de-laminated in places. It was at this point that I was thinking WHAT HAVE I GOTTEN MYSELF INTO.
I pulled the headlight controller from the dash so I could actually see and work on the ignition switch. Pulled out a bunch of the wires from it and confirmed that yes, the switch does indeed still work. Found the bus line leading from the battery to the switch, and the line leading from the switch to the coil. Tested at the coil, and voila! 28.4V! Plugged everything in and started cranking again...
Reeeee REEEeeee Reeeee REEEEE REEEE COUGH reeeee Reeee REEEEEe Sputter REEEEE reeeee REEeeeeEEee cough.... you get the idea.
She didn't start.
So we started checking spark, good spark to #1, and it sure seems like the truck is building compression cause you can hear it on every chug. We played around with the carb until the sun went down and then decided it was time to start the grill, open a beer, and let the frustrations of the day melt.
I got some starting fluid last night and figured that I might be able to start it by myself today. A fortuitous turn of events meant that my classes tonight were cancelled. SWEET! So I doddled home, slaved the trucks, squirted a little starting fluid, hit the starter and CHUFF CHUFF... Reeee Reeee reeee reeee Reee Reeeee.... Nope.
Checked the firing order, yup, it is 1-5-3-6-2-4 with the #1 towards the back and assuming a clockwise rotation as one looks at the rotor from the top.Just as TM-2 shows in figure 140. However, it seems like there is a lot of play on the distributor housing.
So, this weekend I think I will pull the cap off, turn the truck over until I hit the 4º timing mark and check to make sure that everything lines up.
Progress! At least I hope.
Does anyone have another harness lying around somewhere collecting dust? If not, I guess I will be buying a ton of 14 gauge wire and starting over... because this truck is HACKED UP.