1968 JK M35A2 Restoration Project!

[Olywadan]

We had that random, all night, rain storm here in Olympia. It's starting to dry and bubbles are going away, but the paint isn't attatched to the metal anymore. It sat for almost 2 days before the rain. Went to home depot and they said it didn't dry enough because I probably put to thick of a coat on. Which I did.

 

[oddshot]

We had that random, all night, rain storm here in Olympia. It's starting to dry and bubbles are going away, but the paint isn't attatched to the metal anymore. It sat for almost 2 days before the rain. Went to home depot and they said it didn't dry enough because I probably put to thick of a coat on. Which I did.

YIKES!!!

Either YOU are having a tough paint week or its a case of REAL bad karma ... or "truckma" in this case!

You might want to get your bio-rhythms re-aligned.

Paint is ALWAYS finicky about prep ... and coats.

ALWAYS scrape/sand, clean and de-grease, dry, prime (maybe ... although the old paint is usually the best primer) ... THEN paint.

Several LIGHT coats are way better then a couple heavy ones, with proper drying time between coats.

oddshot

 

[Olywadan]

YIKES!!!

Either YOU are having a tough paint week or its a case of REAL bad karma ... or "truckma" in this case!

You might want to get your bio-rhythms re-aligned.

Paint is ALWAYS finicky about prep ... and coats.

ALWAYS scrape/sand, clean and de-grease, dry, prime (maybe ... although the old paint is usually the best primer) ... THEN paint.

Several LIGHT coats are way better then a couple heavy ones, with proper drying time between coats.

oddshot

Now you tell me... I did go pretty heavy in the application. Now I know better. I'm hoping it's just the bubbly area that I have to redo. There are several areas on the truck where it looks wet, but dry to the touch. Like the paint is darker and in streaks.

And I'm sorry for Hijacking your thread WSU. I home you don't think I'm an ass now. I was just drying to confirm your Behr project.

 

[Gunfreak25]

If you read a post I made in the paint section a few months back I had the exact same issue. It had rained cats and dogs that day, and the paint I had applied didn't have enough dry time. I noticed the bubbles like you are describing. I took the liberty of scraping the paint off while it was wet, however once it started to dry it became impossible to strip again. Hardened right back up. I came to the conclusion that the Behr paints need a full month of dry warm weather to fully cure and be water proof. In my case the paint had been applied about 2 weeks prior to the raining. I eventually decided to strip the truck (about HALF the truck) of the house paints I had applied and as of just a week ago I barely started repainting again with the proper enamel this time from Aervoe. I've been working since that rainy day trying to remove the behr, it's tough stuff dude. Tough stuff. But, I only have a little left to go then I can finish painting with the enamel. I kept the Behr on the troop seats, though. No way I am stripping every piece of wood again.

I tried scraping, wire wheeling, paint stripper, denatured alcohol, boiling water, a heat gun, brake fluid, diesel, gasoline, etc. None of them removed the Behr paint that easily. I eventually fell on using 100 grit good quality sand paper to take the Behr off. By far, sanding works the fastest. And it's cheaper than using 100 gallons of stripper.

 

[wsucougarx]

Like the paint is darker and in streaks.

.

I got the streaks as well. I don't know what's in the paint but initially you'll get the streaking. I took a hose to it and sprayed it down really good. The "film" that causes the streaking turned to bubbles like there was soap on the surface. After rinsing her down, she doesn't streak anymore. I dropped a hammer on the fender today. Just a little scratch. This paint is sure tough.

 

[Gunfreak25]

I am beginning to believe the rumor that the "CARC" govt contractors are using to repaint the current MV's is nothing more than relabeled BEHR paint. I can swear on the good book that this stuff is harder to remove any other paint i've ever worked with. Darn durable as well, when properly cured it dries rock hard. Don't let the word "latex" fool you into thinking it dries to the consistency of elmers glue or anything. Even though I am using the Aervoe enamel on my truck, I am saving the inside of the cargo bed for some semi gloss Behr matched to the Aervoe paint.

In the future, I am skipping the enamel all together and just SPRAYING a behr finish instead of brushing it on. I opted for the Aervoe rattle cans because I don't feel like investing in any spray equipment, but the Wagner looks like it's gotten better.

 

[Olywadan]

All the bubbles are gone this morning, tried to smudge and peel the areas but you can't even tell there was anything wrong with them. Just as hard and solid as the rest of the paint. Only evidence are the water streaks from where I guess the rest of the water finely was pushed out. Still have the streaks in the doors. I'm gonna find a parking lot and just park it in the sun for the rest of the day. See if that helps any. If not I hope they wash off like you said WSU.

 

[wsucougarx]

Wow what a beautiful day it is. Decided to take the '68 to the Satsop Nuclear Power Plant today. My once big truck isn't so big anymore

 

[roady]

Nice pictures. Not so pretty here with hurricane Irene trying to drown us and blow us away.

 

[wsucougarx]

Yah, I've been glued to the computer watching the status of Irene.

 

[wsucougarx]

Coolant System PMCS

Well, this project has been on the to do list for a better part of 2-3 years. When I got this truck she only had about 5k miles on her since she rolled out of Tooele Army Depot back in 1990. Over the past decade, she only logged 70 something miles....no joke. She has pretty much just sat for two decades.
I drained the coolant, filtered it, and recycled it back into the truck. I also added a coolant filter and added some coolant additives.
In the process of leaning the radiator forward to loosen the fan bolts I inadvertently nailed the winch clutch lockout hinge.....ooops Just minutes before I told myself I probably should put my piece of 1/8" plywood over the radiator just to prevent this very thing. Well, my focus now changed to repairing the radiator. After getting on SS, several members gave advise on what to use. I used a Acid Core Solder with C-flex flux. I originally used a 100w soldering iron but that proved futile. I had a butane torch from when I built a NM M1a rifle. The flame got the area good and hot and the solder stuck just fine. I had to solder it a couple times before the leaks stopped.
I replaced all the main hoses.
Pics:
1) Tearing her down
2) Coolant recovery hose
3) Oops
4) Isolated the vertical passageway
5) Sanded/cleaned her down for solder
6) Used a pair of pliers to close up the hole
7) Ready for solder
Tools used for soldering-Butane torch, solder, flux
9) Completed solder
10) Truck's at 170 degrees...No leaks!!!!

 

[wsucougarx]

I also spruced up the engine compartment as well
Pics:
1) New hose, new belts, primed up rust
2) Lower radiator hose
3) Culprit radiator puncher
4) New heater hoses
5) Coolant Filter
6-7) Shot some Behr paint
Recycled one of the replaced hose. This is where I noticed the last set of heater hoses rubbing on the hood.
9) Coolant additive-1 pint

 

[wsucougarx]

If there's one thing I can recommend when working on or near the radiator

 

[plym49]

Nice job on the paint and thank you for the tip on the BEHR paint. My M35 needs some touch-ups and the 383 CARC substitute will be handy and cost-effective. It will also be good for my M416 trailer.

Question: has anyone got the BEHR codes for Gillespie 24087 paint?

 

[wsucougarx]

Sorry I don't but if you can find a pic of the color you're after they can match it exactly! Pretty impressive machine they have. Have you seen the Gillespie 24087 before? It's more brownish compared to the other 24087's made by other companies

 

[plym49]

Sorry I don't but if you can find a pic of the color you're after they can match it exactly! Pretty impressive machine they have. Have you seen the Gillespie 24087 before? It's more brownish compared to the other 24087's made by other companies

I have not, only in web pictures, and admittedly that is not too accurate. I am partial to that solid olive drab that was kind of dark and probably did have a little brown in it. That was the color that predominated when I was in the Service, it might have been a leftover WWII/Korea color or an early 'Nam color. In my web surfing (I have only recently become a MV owner, so not too much in-person experience yet) the Gillespie 24087 seemed pretty close to what I remembered.

 

[Vintage iron]

I have just posted some pictures of the color I think your talking about. I will post them up here. In the picture you can see a original USMC Jerry can that has been in storage for 30+ yrs. It was covered in oil so the paint on it was Mint! I painted the test area with Sherwin William premium acrylic flat (river Rock 2139-10) is the color. I wanted the color flat, but I am sure you can get it in any sheen you want.

 

[plym49]

I have just posted some pictures of the color I think your talking about. I will post them up here. In the picture you can see a original USMC Jerry can that has been in storage for 30+ yrs. It was covered in oil so the paint on it was Mint! I painted the test area with Sherwin William premium acrylic flat (river Rock 2139-10) is the color. I wanted the color flat, but I am sure you can get it in any sheen you want.

Thanks for taking the time to post these photos. This is one of the olive drabs I like, and in fact the color I need (along with the 383 substitute) for various touch-ups. The S-W color is very good to know.

There is another color, even darker and with a touch of brown (at least, it appears that way to me) that I am also interested in, and so far the Gillespie 24087 seems closest to that. I would love a locally available, less expensive alternative for that.

If I can find something with that color on it, maybe I can trot it down to the Depot as you suggested.

 

[wsucougarx]

September 11th Preparations

To mark the 10th Anniversary of September 11th, several pastors in the area have organized a day of Prayer and Remembrance for Patriot Day. What first started as just a day to get local churches together for prayer, has turned into a County-wide event. They're expected to have the Washington National Guard and Band down for the event on Sunday. The organizers have also requested that ALL currently serving Military/Police/Fire to wear their Class A uniforms for the event. I plan on driving my '68 M35A2 to the event. Not as a static display, but as a moving memorial for those who lost their lives on September 11th and after.
I found it appropriate to stencil on "UNITED WE STAND" on the side engine panels. I also ordered a memorial flag online to place on the back of the truck.

If you are local and want to attend this event, here are the details:

Meeting place: Aberdeen, WA at Stewart Field
Starting Time: 1800 hrs (NG band to start playing at 1730 hrs)
End Time: Between 1930-2000 hrs or later

I will also post this information in a thread I started a couple days ago.

 

[itsbrokeagain]

very cool build I got the itch to buy one, and Ive been reading through the entire thread looking at every picture at least 3 times..lol

I love diesel engines so any chance to tinker with one I will