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1984 CUCV transmission.

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Vermont
someone mentioned a misadjusted vacuum valve/regulator could be the culprit, it doent appear that mine can be adjusted. I have adjusted the modulator in and out with no results either than a later 1->2 shift.
 

NDT

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Well sounds like we might be back to my original fear that the 2-3 shift spool is stuck. This is fairly uncommon, but in my feeble mind everything points to it. Overhaul of the valve body is not particularly easy. Might be a job for a trusted transmission shop.
 
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Yea kind of a bummer but could be a fun challenge. Thank you all for the input and help, I have definitely learned a lot. Ill update this post with what I do from here!
 

rustystud

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OK first of all the vacuum modulator does not make the transmission upshift. That is the governors job. The vacuum modulator controls shift timing and is suppose to be in conjunction with the throttle. In a gas engine when you apply throttle the vacuum (in the manifold) goes down. This causes the modulator valve to move allowing more fluid pressure against the shift valves, causing the transmission to either stay in it's present gear or downshift. When there is more vacuum ( light throttle) there is less modulator pressure against the shift valve and the governor pressure working against the shift valve will allow the valve to move causing the transmission to upshift. The governor is located in the rear of the transmission and has a small filter under one of the two steel lines that go to it. This filter can get plugged up. To access it you need to drop the pan and remove the valve body. The two steel lines are in the valve body and go to the main case.
 
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Looking at swapping in a new tranny, I don't have time or accommodations at the moment to rebuild I have a parking spot haha Where in the TM's can I find information on input and output shaft specs torque protocols? I think output is 32 spline, are most th400 out of a 4x4 like this? what are problems I might have putting in a tranny from a standard GMC 4x4 with the th400? thanks, just exploring my options.
 

Chaski

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Why not just swap the valve body? That would be a lot easier than swapping the entire transmission out. You could go to a pick-n-pull yard and have a valve body in your hands in less than an hour with a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket set.
 

rustystud

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Why not just spend some time and take out the valve body. Clean it up, check the filter in the governor assembly and see if that helps ? As for your question about the output shafts. Yes they are for the most part 32 splines. The problem arises due to the many output shafts there are. The spare Th400 you pick-up might not have the correct shaft. To replace the output shaft you must completely teardown the transmission. If you do that you might as well rebuild it.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
How difficult is it to rebuild these transmissions? Seems like there's alot of videos, rebuild kits, and manuals available on how to do it.
The TH400 is the most difficult transmission out of all the major manufactures. Actually the whole GM line-up is more difficult then anyone else's. The 4L60E, 4L80E, 6L80/90E all are difficult transmissions. The upside is they are also the strongest transmissions. That is why racers use them almost exclusively. I recently just rebuilt my TH400 to handle up to 800HP continuously and it only cost about $600.00 . You can make this transmission handle crazy power if you have enough money.
Now having said all this, if your very careful and get some special tools (not too many) and manuals you can rebuild a TH400 by yourself. The biggest thing is cleanliness and organization. Especially on the valve body. Unless you have rebuilt a ton of these things don't just start removing valve parts ! Lay out carefully how they came out and where they came out. Next clean all parts thoroughly ! This cannot be over stressed ! A valve can hang up on a human hair ! Thankfully you don't have to worry about warpage much on a TH400 as the valve body is cast iron. On other transmissions with aluminum valve bodies this is a serious issue. I can go on, but you get the idea. It can be done.
 

TexAndy

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The TH400 is the most difficult transmission out of all the major manufactures. Actually the whole GM line-up is more difficult then anyone else's. The 4L60E, 4L80E, 6L80/90E all are difficult transmissions. The upside is they are also the strongest transmissions. That is why racers use them almost exclusively. I recently just rebuilt my TH400 to handle up to 800HP continuously and it only cost about $600.00 . You can make this transmission handle crazy power if you have enough money.
Now having said all this, if your very careful and get some special tools (not too many) and manuals you can rebuild a TH400 by yourself. The biggest thing is cleanliness and organization. Especially on the valve body. Unless you have rebuilt a ton of these things don't just start removing valve parts ! Lay out carefully how they came out and where they came out. Next clean all parts thoroughly ! This cannot be over stressed ! A valve can hang up on a human hair ! Thankfully you don't have to worry about warpage much on a TH400 as the valve body is cast iron. On other transmissions with aluminum valve bodies this is a serious issue. I can go on, but you get the idea. It can be done.

Thanks. I was just thinking in terms of the future. I've got some pulled humvee TH400s. Vague plan is to keep one as a spare for my 1009 (assuming the bell housing is the same or adaptable) I was thinking about taking one out of the crate and taking it apart to inspect it and see what I could see.

Is it the kind of thing you can tell without installing it in the vehicle whether or not it's going to work?
 

NDT

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Is it the kind of thing you can tell without installing it in the vehicle whether or not it's going to work?
If it is all greasy and nasty with a red tag, think "who would have pulled this just for the fun of it". It needs rebuilt.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Alrighty, picked up the truck today. All fluid levels are good and the cap is tight on the dipstick. Ill start going through starting with the vacuum assembly tomorrow. Does anyone know around what speeds the transmission should be shifting with stock gearing? thanks.
I have a 86 civvy 3/4 ton that I drive a heck of a lot. It has the same transmission (th400). It (the whole drivetrain) is geared rediculously low like the cucv. Like was previously said, you can't feel it shift from 1 to 2 unless you shut up your shotgun, and radio, and really listen (feel) closely. It shifts into 2nd at 15 mph and 3rd at 30. Feather the gas and it will be sooner. All she has is 3 so you will only feel 2 shifts. My top speed is 55 but I only go 45 because it is a 350 gasser and it is wound too tight for my pleasure if I go 55. Not a highway truck. I avoid it like the plague. In my days I have never seen a 400 tranny go out. I did however one time have one that was stuck in 1st for a long time unless you honed it and then it would upshift. Took it to a trans shop and the guy screwed me over and didn't fix it as it only worked for a few days. So one day I deciced to drop the valve body to make sure all the ball bearing check valves were in place to find out the entire valve body was loose. Every bolt! I dropped it anyway to assure the bearings were in place and they were. Put it back together and drove it for nearly ten more years before my son totaled the truck. I have also had plenty of vacuum lines rot, break, come unhooked and always look at this first. Burnt fluid usually leads to slippage (actually slippage leads to burnt fluid) and not once have I seen slippage in a 400. However, not once have I seen a 350 trans not fail with hard work. Only word to me for a th400 is 'bulletproof'. If gov knew to use it for us, this only reinforces my viewpoint as well as all the dragstrip folks I have known over the years.

Hope this helps,
Jim
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
If it is all greasy and nasty with a red tag, think "who would have pulled this just for the fun of it". It needs rebuilt.
Def take heed to that.

So have you found out for sure that it is or isn't shifting twice? These babys are geared as low as the civvy I drive and the trans is a chunk of gold. Precious that is! They shift so smooth. Mine has nearly 90k miles and still super smooth and I'm betting your Real McCoy has less miles and should shift smoother. Especially with a diesel going easy on it.

Jim
 
70
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Location
Vermont
Ok, finally got around to it. Like Porkchop said, it does not shift into third. i replaced the whole vacuum assembly, pump, modulaor etc and that did not do the trick. It shifted from 1-2 smoother though! :grd: Dropped the pan and there were only very fine shavings like sand which was very comforting. I dropped out the valve body with the tranny still in the truck only thing you need to watch out for in doing this is the six 5/16 ball bearings dropping out.

My first concern was that I only found 5 ball bearings... some people say you actually only need 5 so I wasn't too concerned until I found it lodged in part of a channel in lower valve body. Im not to sure if it is supposed to be here bc it is on the opposite side of the VB gasket and plate than the other checkballs.

Second there was a small tear in the VB gasket but it wasnt too bad but could be part of the problem im thinking.

Third, the what I think is called the "direct clutch???" was broken in half and the little o-ring was rough in one spot.... I think this is the main problem unless the direct clutch has nothing to do with 2-3 shift but it looks like it might be important.

Because I already have it apart I went ahead and ordered a completely new valve body, shift kit, and direct clutch. Going to bang that into place once it comes in and have time off work. Hopefully this helps, If not im going to rebuild it.

Here are pictures of the broken direct clutch:
image1.jpg
And here is the checkball... it might be in the right spot? I cant find out? Its just up to the right of the clutch near a valve.
image2.jpg
 

rustystud

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This is your 2-3 shift accumulator. I always leave out this spring on rebuilds. The accumulator piston is of course broken allowing the fluid to dump to pan instead of applying the clutch. You will need a new piston. Try and find an aluminum one instead of the plastic. Most transmission shops will have some squirreled away. If you cannot find any I have some. As far as the gaskets go, you don't need them. As long as you totally clean the valve body, separator plate, and case. There is also 1 check valve that is in the case. You can retain it with some Vaseline when going back together. Be very careful when putting the valve body back-up. The rear servo assembly will be hard to go in and you will have to use some force holding it up and against the case. The same time aligning the governor tubes.
 
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NDT

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Rustystud, is the broken 2-3 shift accumulator cup the reason the truck won't shift into 3rd?
 
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