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1984 M1009 Trans Problems

eric_banks32

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Its not changing the filter that does it. Its changing the fluid. If it was serviced regularly during its life it would be fine but most don't change the trans fluid regularly and it causes issues when it is done late in the transmissions life. It all depends on how "dirty" the old fluid was. I've had a couple of transmissions go out following fluid changes. Both were 700r4's. The first lost the 3/4 clutch pack and the second lost the converter. Most shops won't do flushes if its got more than 100,000 miles or 10 years since the last one was done for this reason.
 

rickf

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I put a Trans-Go shift improver kit in every trans I do. And the cooler. You do not need the shift reprogramming kit, they are different. The improver kit will raise the line pressure where needed to prevent slipping and it will not give the neck breaking shifts that some of the other kits do. Check to make sure you did not knock off the vacuum line to the modulator on the transmission. That would cause the exact shifts you described, the no shift at all now......................... well I guess it depends on how long you drove it with the line off if that is what you find. If it is off then put it on and try it. If that does not do it be sure all of the linkages are on and adjusted correctly. When you dropped the pan the first time what was in the bottom? How much clutch material? how much stuff was on the magnet? This is all stuff you have to take note of so you know the condition of the transmission. How many miles are on it?

Rick
 
There is only 3500 miles on it. I know it sounds strange but the mileage is correct. There was some material in the bottom, but not enough that would make you think something was wrong. I really am starting to think that it has something to do with the linkage. because it doesn't even move a hair when i put it in D or R, and when you put it drive and hit the pedal it revs up like it would if it were still in park. Does anyone have a TM number for the linkage by some chance. I wanna check that before i drop the pan again.
 

rickf

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Disconnect the linkage at the transmission, make sure wheels are chocked. Put shifter in "N", Go under truck and move trans linkage two clicks from park. Shift linkage should line up and go right in, if not adjust until it fits. I don't think this is going to be your problem because you would feel it in the shifter. It would feel like there was nothing there, no detents. Like I said, check the vacuum line and then the filter. You are sure the transfer case is in gear?
 

Onestar

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Leesburg, Virginia
Double check your governor, I believe it's on the passenger side rear of the transmission. It's inexpensive and my truck was acting funny shifting and it turned out to be it. The teeth on it were completely worn down.
 

rbeasley66

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Drop the pan again and check the plastic tube has o rings on both ends and the filter is on correctly. While you have the cover off drill it for a drain plug. My truck wouldnt move in the mornings so I swapped filters. Thats when I found out it was missing an o ring and the filter wasnt secured correctly. I have had no issues since then.

Best of luck,
Doug.
Except for that dented right front fender ?!? :gimp2:
 

wayne pick

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Can you conferm how many miles are on the truck? With all due respect, I find it hard to beleve it has only 3500 miles on it, and if it does, why change the fluid? If the oil was burnt, it has far more than 3500 miles on it. Old trans fluid has alot of clutch materal in it, thats what gives the oil that orange color and burnt smell. That clutch materal also helps the clutches hookup, I was told this from my trany guy after I changed the oil on an old 92 S10 blazer I had and had the same slipping issue you discribe. It was also just shy of 200K miles when I did this. He also told me if the trans didn't see regular services to leave it alone. When you "change" the oil, you are just adding 5 or so qts of new oil to the oil remaining in the torque converter, so you never really change it. You may have diluted the old oil causing the trans to slip. Lucas has a trans additive that will restore the friction inhancers in the oil, try that after you have determened the filter was installed correctly and there are no vacum leaks.
 

rickf

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You had a tranny guy tell you that old clutch material helps the clutch's hook up? Okaaaay.........................
If you use the right transmission fluid that is called for by the manufacturer then it will have all the friction modifiers you need. I bought my truck with 2900 miles on it and one for work with 500. Why is his mileage so hard to believe?
 

wayne pick

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Okaaaay....................... rick, then why is it when you change the oil on old transmissions they slip? I have heard of this happening more than once. Older GM transmissions actually function better with Mercon fluid, look it up. Why did his trans slip with only 3500 miles on it. How could anyone knock a vacum line off when dropping the pan?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

rickf

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I am not looking for a fight, I have been a master mechanic for 40 plus years and I have done just a couple (thousand) transmission fluid changes. Changing the fluid does not make it slip. There is always a mitigating factor. In this case I am betting the filter was not pushed all the way in or the line was knocked off. How can you do it? Well it is right above the rear of the pan rail and if there was any oil or grunge on it then it would have already been swollen up so it would not be hard to do.

Rick
 

ARYankee

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I just bought a filter for my transmission. I figured on changing it since all fluids were drained before I got it from GL. I'm hoping some one could point point me to the TM that shows changing it out so (hopefully) I don't have any issues afterwards.
 

ARYankee

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I just bought a filter for my transmission. I figured on changing it since all fluids were drained before I got it from GL. I'm hoping some one could point point me to the TM that shows changing it out so (hopefully) I don't have any issues afterwards.
Disregard the last post. I found it. Page 140 in TM 9-2320-289-20P
 

Warthog

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Instructions are in TM 9-2320-289-20, Chapter 5-2. Disreguard the first picture unless you have the Atric Kit installed. :razz:
 

ARYankee

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Instructions are in TM 9-2320-289-20, Chapter 5-2. Disreguard the first picture unless you have the Atric Kit installed. :razz:
:) I was actually looking in that TM this morning. aua I guess I just wasn't looking hard enough. I knew I could count on you to hook me up. Once again THANKS.
 
Well i dropped the pan to find the gasket on the filter itself were the filler tube connects was unseated. So i corrected it and put the pan back on, and drives perfect. Thanks for all the help guys. So now that i have changed the fluid in the trans, for the m1009 what would you guys suggest how often should i change it?
 

Warthog

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25 years or 3500 miles. Which ever comes first...:mrgreen:

Glad you found the issue.

Since you plan on driving it, I would say 5 years, 50000 miles between changes. Thats my WAG.
 
Last edited:

Goatwerks

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San Bernardino, Ca.
Glad to see you got it sorted and posted the results. It is very common for Trans guys like myself find something simple overlooked.:roll:

TH-400 or 700R4 fluid and filter 2yrs or 24,000 miles for normal use, change before fluid turns acrid(brown/burnt).

Here is a diagnostic tip on reading automatic transmission pan debris for future use: fine brown/gray material in the pan is usually friction material, dark gray (magnetic) is cast metal, bright metal is usually case metal(lug wear) or converter stator, brass comes from thrust washers, drum bushings, planetary gear set thrust washers. Plastic debris with no up shift is usually worn out(apple cored) governor driven gear(replace the gear and all is good).

You are now armed with knowledge...........:mrgreen:
 
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