1986 M1031 Power Steering Pump and Steering Lines Removal/Replacement - $161

[CrustyM1010]

Finally got around to replacing my power steering pump. I left on a 11-month deployment and the truck had been sitting the whole time. There was a slight whine coming from the power steering pump before I left. When I got back, I did a quick PMCS on the truck. Everything checked out and the truck started right up as if I had never left. Only this time, there was noticeable effort required to turn and the pump had a whine at all RPMs. Power Steering pump was shot. Headed to the parts store and everything was in stock and available same day. Job took no more than 6 hrs. Could have been quicker if you had a shop. I was working in a driveway mostly in the pitch black.

Parts Purchased from O'Reilly Auto Parts:

- Power Steering Pump Reman, MasterPro P/N 731-2238 $73
- Power Steering Line, pump to hydroboost, Precision P/N 13401729 $29
- Power Steering Line, hydroboost to steering box, Precision P/N 13401313 $21
- 4ft HIGH PRESSURE steering hose $20
- Valvoline Steering Fluid 2QTs $18
- Pulley Puller Tool Rental $0


Pretty straight forward job. Parked truck, chucked wheels, disconnected negative from battery, removed driver side alternator to clear up some space, labeled wires coming off of alternator so nothing gets mixed up. Used this time to inspect and clean all terminals on starter and associated wires. Removed power steering pump bracket bolts, removed steering box return, removed hydrobost return, removed pressure line going to hydroboost. Capped opening on hydroboost to ensure no foreign material drops in there. The reman pump was an exact fit, continued with job.

 

[CrustyM1010]

Next, I needed to remove the infamous steering pump bracket. This had been replaced when I bought the truck because the original bracket cracked in half. The previous owner though the engine had a knock and sold it for a cool 3k. I put the new bracket on, and the truck has needed nothing since. Flat towed nearly a dozen CUCVs with this truck. Drove 2,000 mile round trips no problem.

Emptied all of the old steering fluid, used the pulley puller to remove v belt pulley, removed bracket. Took the new pump and bolted on the bracket, and then used the tool to mount the v belt pulley. Compared the new Precision steering line (pump to hydroboost) to the old one. Same length and same bends. Installed the new steering line with supplied orings onto pump. I rubbed new steering fluid on the orings before installation. Tightened down snug.

 

[CrustyM1010]

Precision Steering Line, pump to hydroboost

 

[CrustyM1010]

At this time I grabbed that new 4ft of HP steering hose and began laying it next to the old return lines to trim for the correct sizes. Started with the hydroboost return hose. The prebent lines in the original hose were reused. They are held in the hose with hose clamps. Laid the old line on the ground and laid the new pieces of hose next to it. Then began building the new line until I ended up with a new section of return hose. Old on the left, new on the right. Exact copy.

The steering box return is just a 12-14" piece of hose with hose clamps. Easy to trim a new piece.

Third picture has the new PS pump with the 3 new hoses connected.

1. pressure line from pump to hydroboost
2. hydroboost return
3. steering box return

 

[CrustyM1010]

Before putting the pump back into the truck, I removed the old hydroboost to steering box hose and replaced it with the new precision unit. Easy out, easy in. Next bolted the new steering pump in place and tightened v-belt. If you have old belts now would be a good time to replace them. Mine were replaced 2 years ago so no worries. After getting the pump bolted in and v belt tight, moved onto the driver side alternator install. Tightened alternator v belt and wires.

Next, I hooked up the pump to hydroboost hose. Then the hydroboost return line. There is a metal hose bracket coming off the hydroboost cylinder that holds all the hoses together, made sure to connect that back up.

I wanted to flush my steering box with new fluid before hooking it up to the rest of the truck. So, I capped off the steering box return port on the pump and ran an extra hose off of the steering box pump return fitting into a drain pan. I jacked up the front axle of the truck on jack stands. Performed a once over under the hood to make sure no tools or rags were accidentally left in place. Filled the steering pump with brand new fluid. Connected the negative post on the battery, then turned over the engine without starting it. This way the pump spins up pressure to push fluid through the entire system down to the steering box. With the front tires in the air, I cycled from lock to lock left and right. fluid poured out of the steering box until I saw clear steering fluid in the pan. Didnt take much fluid at all.

With everything looking good, I decided to connect the steering box return hose. System was now fully sealed. I put some more fluid into the pump to ensure i didn't run it low during air purging. Started the truck and let the pump build pressure. Slowly turned left to right multiple times. Pressed the brakes a few times. Filled the pump with more fluid and repeated until I didn't see any air bubbles coming into the pump reservoir. Topped off fluids and drove around the block slowly in case there was a pump failure, and my brakes went out. Truck turns amazing and stops great. No whining or weird noises. Took the truck on a 20 min drive. Everything worked great. Checked fluids one last time and parked the truck for the night. I am in no way an expert with hydroboost systems. If anyone has any corrections, please let me know.

 

[CrustyM1010]

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[cucvrus]

Looks good. Fire it up. One thing I always do is put a flat washer on the inner adjustment slot right behind the P/S bracket. That way when you tighten the adjustment nut it makes square 360-degree contact on a flat surface, and you are not pressing a hex nut pattern into the back side slide groove of the power steering bracket. Just a thought. I have welded and repaired many of the hard-to-find power steering brackets from CUCV's. I have several in my stock and even an original new GM bracket. If you have any even broken ones keep them. They can be rebuilt. Good Luck.

 

[CrustyM1010]

Looks good. Fire it up. One thing I always do is put a flat washer on the inner adjustment slot right behind the P/S bracket. That way when you tighten the adjustment nut it makes square 360-degree contact on a flat surface, and you are not pressing a hex nut pattern into the back side slide groove of the power steering bracket. Just a thought. I have welded and repaired many of the hard-to-find power steering brackets from CUCV's. I have several in my stock and even an original new GM bracket. If you have any even broken ones keep them. They can be rebuilt. Good Luck.

That is brilliant. I should have done that after I replaced the last bracket. Will be putting a washer on it today!

 

[cucvrus]

 

[swbradley1]

Excellent writeup

 

[royalflush55]

My CUCV's have an alternator above the power steering pump!

 

[CrustyM1010]

My CUCV's have an alternator above the power steering pump!

Haha you got me! Wrote this around 0500 this morning, so my fault. Replaced "starter" with alternator.