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1988 CUCV 12v Blazer question

staplesSalvage

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I have a 1988 "m1009" ccuv blazer that came w/ a complete 6.2l 12v engine, egr set up and ecm/pcm wiring throughout the truck. However, there is a 24v inverter under the passenger side seat. I have multiple 1990 and up 24v 6.2's to put in it but are not egr intake types, different intake, sensor locations, etc. (FED emissions) the blown motor was a c model , I have only J's too replace it with.
Will the 24v inverter run my engine sensors without messing up the computer? or can i just use the 12v sensors on the 24v engine only swapping the TPS and fuel shut off selenoid in the FIP?

I know, FNG's...
 

staplesSalvage

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Am not aware of any 'computers'( a couple circuit boards yes) on stock 1009, and they were pre 1988. Some pictures of truck and wiring would be useful.
I'll get back to you w/ your requests. Some of the RPO codes on this Blazer don't even show up on GM's charts. Everything on the engine was spade conectors , 12v, all i have are 1 pin, 24v on my other motors , injectors, cts, glow plug relay, TPS, FSS on the top of the IP. etc.
 

Recovry4x4

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If in fact it's a 1988, it was probably some type of conversion or clone. Post up the VIN or at least the first 11 characters and we'll decode it.
 
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Warthog

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There where a few Gov blazers in 1988. While they where not true CUCVs they where painted green and had the 24v inverters. We have discussed them a few times. I'll see if I can find an old thread.

The 24v inverter was only used for the military radios. Otherwise they where just stock trucks.
 
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rtk

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I am not sure they had all that in 1988 , sounds like a 1009 wanna be . Pic's would help along with the VIN .
 

staplesSalvage

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this is what I have to put in it100_6511.jpg100_6510.jpg100_6509.jpg100_6513.jpg100_6515.jpg100_6517.jpg100_6518.jpgWhat to do about the 24v electronics for the engine sensor and plug's? will 24v from the inverter under the seat mess with the ECM/PCM and give me problems since it's on a 12v wire harness?
 

Recovry4x4

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Definitely not a cucv but well worth fixing. 5th character in VIN is a V. If it were a true CUCV it would have been D. Here's what I would do here in FL. Scrap the EGR intake and put the J back on. You can use the tops off the old IP to gain 12V shutoff and fast idle solenoids. Save the inverter for any radio stuff you many need. I'd have a close look at the starter. Odds are good it's 12V .

Edit. Interestingly, the sticker has the CUCV NSN on it!
 
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rtk

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Wow , project for sure . The 1988 manufacture date would explain the electronics , but as was said the VIN is wrong for a CUCV . I think this goes back to what WARTHOG found . I also think you should save it , what is busted on the original engine ? . Wonder under what TM that would be ? probably a civilian Blazer , but then again it does have some 24 volt electronics .
 

Warthog

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Just pull the 24v stuff off the new engine and reinstall all the 12v stuff off the old engine. I agree with Recovry, ditch the C-code intake and use the J-code.

Recovry, did you notice the Model number? It is a CV10516 and not the CD10516 of the orginal CUCVs? The V model of trucks started in 1988 and ran till 1991. And the NSN is just a carry over.

These seem that they where just a special order truck for the Navy. The Unit number of 94-33905 is Navy issue.
 
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staplesSalvage

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Yes, it's a Navy truck from P.S.N.S in Washington, got at Ft. Lewis coupla years back for $200. It has 2 battery pans, and 12v everything off the old cracked n' busted beyond repair motor. I have 1 early 90's j motor left took 2 days to get the rusted piston out of the other one that had clean, new everything on it but a hole in the valve cover(yes i said ahole). The heads on the c wont work with a j without swapping injectors, got lot's of those. The j I have left was a F7 code demil I got for $150 in the can rebuilt in 2005 looking good and clean on the outside but some one didn't bolt the IP to the timing gear. Gonna pop the heads of just to make sure everything's good on the top end, Rods and all look good underneath but I'm seeing rust on the valves from the intake side of the heads. the heads were good off the other j I just stripped so .....
My low budget build may only cost me gaskets!!!:)
Note: the shut off relay in the 12v IP has a crack in it, Still good?
Thanks to all for the info!!!! Any more tip's/suggestions?
 

staplesSalvage

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So why is it I have to keep logging in to see reply's to my post's if I'm still here , on the same computer ???? And why do "they" keep telling me I need to "update my programs in order to see my responses?
quote" I may be dumb....., but at least I'm stupid!!!!!!
 

Warthog

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Are you clicking the "remember me" box when you login? There is a timer that expires your login if you do not click it.
 
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