• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

1989 M923A2 MRAP Aluminum Wheels.

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
I thought of you the other day, when I found 20"x18" HEMTT wheels on eBay.
Wow, that's huge. Those ST tires come on 10" and the tire is 16" wide (I think 18" overall). I'm not sure how they would work with such a large rim. Just for info, here is the nut that fits the aluminum rims and also my nut for the MRAP with 11.25 bolt circle.
 

Attachments

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
I thought most, if not all mrap variants where a bigger bolt circle? Guess thats what I get for thinking....
Yes, most are bigger. They are 13.19" bolt circle and 11" hub pilot. But there are some out there with 11.25 BC like the OP has.

Note the inside of the dish is the side that already has the conical chamfer. I was wondering how he got the mag drill into the dish, but he was working on the flat side (front), so they didn't even need dis-mounted.

The 13.19" is a 20,000-25.000# ag hub pattern...not impossible to match, but not common.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
For the width? With the hubs flipped on the rear axles they are as wide as the front.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Is the track as wide as the duels? If the hub were in and the dish out, would it be as wide, same or wider? My guess is a bit wider. About like my M35A3.
 

Brutus Brent

New member
6
0
0
Location
Las Cruces, NM
I think you are probably right on the Caiman wheels. The guy I bought them from said they where MRAP.
I have a steel table that I used for the mag drill and also strapped the wheel to the table then strapped the mag drill for some added insurance. Trying to eliminate chatter. I took the run flats out trying to go for a better ride on the road and it does drive nice! I donated the bit to the machine shop I got the mag drill from because I thought I might try and get some more wheels and machine them with a mill and sell them, but working out of town and too many projects that has not happened.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
what type of 12" wheels are you putting on?
I'm making a combined wheel from one part, the front ring, that came on the Sand Trail 450 tires and some (I think) Henderson MRAP rims that have the 11.25 bolt circle, steel. There is a slight bit of machining to do for the o-ring, otherwise fit perfect.
 

Attachments

sawdustnsteel

Member
31
0
6
Location
las vegas, Nevada
I'm making a combined wheel from one part, the front ring, that came on the Sand Trail 450 tires and some (I think) Henderson MRAP rims that have the 11.25 bolt circle, steel. There is a slight bit of machining to do for the o-ring, otherwise fit perfect.
thanks much, that is brilliant!
hows the highway ride?
( frankly thats what I'm looking for with using Mrap wheels, fatter, bigger tire, polished aluminum for the pimp look:D and super smooth on road ride. I'm looking at about 85% on road 15% off)
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
My MRAP's are 10" wide and so are the rims on the Sand Trail tires. Together, they make one 12" and leave a (fire pit) 8". Unfortunately they are still sitting at the machine shop I use for the machining at the o-ring...so not done and tried yet. I wanted to use them on an M51A2 dump truck rear but ended up buying an M929A2, not the M51. I have no idea how "smooth" they will be.
 

sawdustnsteel

Member
31
0
6
Location
las vegas, Nevada
thank you for the insight.
I was referring to the potential eventual application of said 12" wheel with the understanding you intend to actually apply the wider, more robust wheel to a tire, and the end goal being riding down the road distributing weight via the larger wheel/tire combo. the encouragement was effort to see a report of the ability of a 12" WHEEL used in conjunction with your chosen tire to produce a better overall mechanics. thus if they ride smooth, or like fred flintstones tried and true tire/wheel combination. :D you have a wonderful day.. yabba-dabba-do.
 

profo

Active member
428
73
28
Location
jeanerette,la
Wow, that's huge. Those ST tires come on 10" and the tire is 16" wide (I think 18" overall). I'm not sure how they would work with such a large rim. Just for info, here is the nut that fits the aluminum rims and also my nut for the MRAP with 11.25 bolt circle.
Toby do you know the part number from TRP?wheel stud, spacer, washer and nut.jpg
 
Last edited:

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Toby do you know the part number from TRP?View attachment 645707
That is a normal lug nut (right and left thread), a "Williams washer" and a 7/16" long piece from a DOM tube, 1" outside and 3/4" inside, all on a bolt that is the same thread as the stud.

Or are you referring to the nut for aluminum rims which is like this:

Alcoa #599501 left, #599502 right
 

Attachments

Last edited:

red

Active member
1,988
25
38
Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
thanks much, that is brilliant!
hows the highway ride?
( frankly thats what I'm looking for with using Mrap wheels, fatter, bigger tire, polished aluminum for the pimp look:D and super smooth on road ride. I'm looking at about 85% on road 15% off)
For a smooth ride the tires/wheels need to be balanced. A cheap way (what I'm doing on my m816) is to pour some coolant inside the tires to act as the balancing media. 1/2 a gallon in each 395 tire has made a huge improvement on the ride quality. Can't use the standard balancing media (powder, BB's, etc) because of the tar left over from the run flats but the coolant works fine.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
For a smooth ride the tires/wheels need to be balanced. A cheap way (what I'm doing on my m816) is to pour some coolant inside the tires to act as the balancing media. 1/2 a gallon in each 395 tire has made a huge improvement on the ride quality. Can't use the standard balancing media (powder, BB's, etc) because of the tar left over from the run flats but the coolant works fine.
Or use a hub with reasonable bearings, clean dry and not tight, where the heavy side will go to the bottom. Have adhesive weights ready and stop when you put it at 90* and it doesn't go either up or down.

I have a precision balancing tool I made for holding shafts that have large material moving blowers, static balancing this way and they run incredibly smooth. If it takes a lot of weight, split it up and distribute. I notice on my A3 that the CTIS is installed but not the corresponding counterweight, so know where a piece of my balance problem comes from.
 
Last edited:

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
I've always been a bit confused how putting in something with weight, a fluid, heavier than air, could make a counterbalance to an already heavy side. Can you explain how that works? Unless the problem is an out of round tire and the large side is the least weight, what makes the fluid or balls to be a counterbalance for the heavy side? What makes the material go opposite to the heavier side (if the tire is round)? It would seem to make the problem worse, but I know some people swear it works. How?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks