• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

*1990 M998A0 Refresh*

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
Okay.. I will start off with a basic intro. My name is Josh and I come from Utah.
I have always had a fascination with HMMWVs and Hummers in general.
This 1990 HMMWV was a local purchase and it must have been too much to take on for the previous owners. When I went to see it, whether it would even run was becoming a very distant thought.
No ignition switch, no light switch, no turn signal switch, no washer reservoir/pump, no air cleaner assembly, no intake assembly, no dog house, no battery cover, tie down, or pass seat base, no seat covers(other than drivers being torn), no rear seat bases, or back panels, no seat belts.
No transfer case, no rear driveshaft, Lights missing everywhere, no indicator lights, cracking fuel hoses, cracking coolant hoses...
No glow plug control box, no top, no doors, broken mirrors, hood needs fiberglass repair, tires mostly rotted out.

So, really just a fun project. But, I felt determined and have already done quite a bit.
The goal is just to get it feeling good on the road and I have been reading this forum all day, trying to learn as much as possible.
I will keep this thread up to date while I am doing the work. Some things are difficult to find and it always helps for me to ask questions first.

Sorry, for the winded post. But, I like to write also. Josh
 

Attachments

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
This next post is a light catch up... It will take me a few posts to get the work on paper, or digital screen.
The first thing that mattered to me was whether the engine could actually run.
I have worked a bit with diesel engines, so I felt confident in getting the starter to engage the flywheel, moving the 8 mini air pumps, while injecting a little fuel.
The thing that obviously bums me out, is the glow plug control box situation. I can hardly imagine the complexities that some manufacturers have insisted on, just to reduce the voltage for short time periods of after glow.
Having wired my last solenoid/momentary 12v gp switch, for my current truck, I can't imagine why anyone would desire anything more complex.

Anyway... I started by cleaning/replacing the fuel lines, getting a generic plug for the tank, a fuel cap and fuel gauge.
Cleaned one injector that was partially exposed to the elements, the jury is still out on that one though.
Pulled the glow plugs, inspected them, will order new ones here shortly.
Replaced fuel vent lines, coolant hoses added my own 6 gauge grounding strap kit for starter, body, alternator, control box.
Bought a new KDS smart start box, with matching temp sensor, new washer reservoir with pump. New washer sprayers.
Picked up a turn signal indicator, light switch, ignition switch. Also some turn indicator lights, a dog house, some batteries, cables.
I located a transfer case, but I wish I would have asked here before doing so. But, it will do the job.

I have already checked the rear spindles and changed the gear oil.
Picked up a set of one piece wheels, to use as my driver wheels. I want easy maintenance while I enjoy my truck.
At this point, I have gotten things near ready for its first start. Oil and filter have been changed, fuel filter has been changed.
Fresh diesel in the tank and I just want to purge the air from the system.
 

Attachments

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
Okay... I am a bit of a night owl, maybe. Anyway. So, I continue... Having last left off with wanting to purge the air from the system.
I picked up two Walmart group 24F batteries, since that is always an easy upgrade and laid my cables out.
The new KDS had arrived, so I finished the grounding kit, hooked up the batteries and started purging the air from the system.

Well, what do you know... It started right up. Didn't run it very long, since I still haven't fully purged the cooling system.
Now, I did make a couple boo boos along the way. Mainly, I overtightened my temp sensor and it broke.
Luckily, HummerPartsGuy was an absolute gentleman and was able to get me on the right path, doing me a solid favor.

So, to make things easy. I removed the coolant crossover to pull the broken sensor.
This allowed me to just replace all the coolant hoses and get new gaskets.
Next week, I plan on buttoning up the engine area pretty well.
I will just be running a 4 inch custom air intake for now, since I can't seem to find a complete used air cleaner set up for a reasonable price.

I was going to do the NP242 transfer case and probably should have. But, I swear prices kept rising week after week and I was able to source an NP218 for less.
Which is fine for now, because I truly do plan to find an ECV truck for my next project.
I just needed to get my hands on the HMMWV and there was a 1990 locally that came with the release paperwork and I have applied for a title.

So, when I sort this truck out a bit, I will pick up a couple more project trucks for the upcoming year.
Back to it... Transfer case has arrived, but apparently the case got cracked in shipping. Well, of course that becomes my problem now, as the seller didnt insure their order.
Rear driveshaft has also been ordered, new u-joints, straps, etc.
Transfer case was missing entire speedo set up. I could hardly seem to find any diagrams or parts for this. In the end, I am pretty sure that I have it figured out. I just didn't grow up in the 1970's Era and some of these designs are just a little dated in modern stuff.

Time to take a break... I'll continue soon.
 

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
Okay.... Time for a new update and some questions.
So, I've been pretty busy the last week or so and have tried to put in any side time that I might have.
Problem is, it is starting to snow and get pretty cold up in the mountains.
Luckily, the soft top kit has arrived and just in time. Sadly, I (like many) didn't realize that I needed - former A pillar - to complete the assembly.

So, more parts ordered and more work to be done. I've decided that with the cold, I want to install a block heater. Of course, after some quick research, everyone said to avoid the Katz. So, I ordered the Zerostart 1000w heater. So, I chose the '"freeze plug" just ahead of the oil filter, and behind the engine mount.
The only problem is, I can't seem to tap it sideways. Before I get crazy, is an easy solution just to drive a larger screw into it, and pry with something?

Okay, next issue. So, I ordered the rear driveshaft and it arrived. Started to remove the from driveshaft, off the would be transfer case and the dust seal was giving me problems.
Is there any real secret to this?
I marked the shaft and finally got it off, but I am hoping that someone can enlighten me.
 

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
Next thing... Back to the soft top kit. Installing it in the cold wasn't the most fun. Although, I was really pushing to get it covered, to finally have the interior dry before the wet.
Well, a couple little plastic loops cracked in the process while putting it on. I tried to get everything in its correct place, but now I wish I would have used a razor blade and trimmed the back of the soft top vinyl holes. Oh well, lesson learned, I will just repair the loops and move on.

So, I have successfully drained the diffs and two of the hubs.
I was being as patient as possible with the driver side, but the hubs screws were so overtightened, that stripping was unavoidable. So, two magnetic set screws ordered and they should be here any day.
So, I read and watched some owners remove their transmission filter (3L80), but I couldn't manage it and tried every way that I could think of to get the pan out.
So, I may just have to remove my transmission cross brace support and mount to get it done. I can't see any other way as it doesn't seem to have the clearance to drop.
So, if anyone knows any magician tricks there, I'd appreciate it. I don't have the transfer case in yet, so I will likely support the engine and transmission from there.

Back to the driveshafts... The rear looks to be just what is needed and I have all the straps and everything needed to mount them.
After getting the front driveshaft off, the universal front u joint kit that I ordered, wasn't the correct size. So, rather than hunt more u joints down, another drive shaft ordered. A little peace of mind, maybe.
I set a new goal of 7-10 days to see it driving on the road. From there, I will be able to get a better idea of what other components feel loose.
 

Attachments

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
Another update... I got the transmission filter changed and also installed the engine block heater.
I had to drop the crossmember, but only one side, while loosening and hanging the other side.
Since the transfer case isn't in quite yet, it was pretty easy to just support underneath the torque converter cover, while getting the transmission filter changed out.

The engine "freeze/frost" plug just me hell, all the way home.
But, with plenty of persistence, it finally came out and I was able to install the engine block heater and move on with me life.
Water crossover pipe back on and new temp sensor installed.

This weekend, I plan to finish the hubs and fill all the fluids back up.
A lot of work still needs to be finished for next week. Stay tuned...
 

Attachments

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
Well, some parts arrived, others did not. So, it turned out to be a pretty uneventful weekend. I did get the air intake set up on. Black was most cost effective for the cap, so that is what the truck got.

Most of the transfer case parts have arrived, but I am still waiting on a few more things to set it up in the truck. So, that will be early this next week.

The next big choice is tires. Since, I plan to drive this quite often, I really want some decent, newer dated coded tires. Whether they are MT, MTR, Baja, or whatever.
The main thing that concerns me, is that I can rely on the two piece, 12 bolt rims.
I'd hate to be up in the mountains, with a slow air leak and can't get back home.
If anyone has any thoughts on wheels and tires, I'd appreciate it.

I made a video of the truck running, but it was too big to upload. So, I may have to revive my Flickr or something for videos.
I am running anti gel/lubricating additive in the truck. In most trucks that I have revived, running them is the best way to get the engine/fuel system back into shape.

I will make another update when I can.
 

Attachments

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
I wasn't going to make an update, but what the hell.
So, today was pretty uneventful. I have been starting the truck everyday now, while using the block heater for about 1-2 hrs beforehand.
The only thing that I've noticed in the hose from the thermostat, to the radiator had a tiny weep. I tightened it down, but life has taught me to order a new hose, sooner than later.

Also, I have been using a custom fuel tank plug, until I could get one.
So, I've kept the tank at a reasonable 4-6 gallons, until I switch it out.
Luckily, it has arrived. But, I will wait to install it, after my road testing starts.

My plan is to keep this under 50 mph for the first few days. I have gotten the cooling system up to temperature, but I can't say that I trust every end quite yet.
The fuel system is smoother than I expected, but there is always room for improvement.

The alternator isn't being my buddy quite yet and that is the task for tomorrow.
I am only getting 12.3 volts per, or 24.6 volts together, while the engine is running. That is not including running the electrics.
So, I am thinking that it is a combo of a belt tension issue and a regulator issue.
I've yet to pop the cap off the regulator and set it. Since I don't have an rpm gauge, I don't want to overload the system.
However, I think that I can do better than 24.6 volts and get pretty close to 1250-1500 rpms, while doing so.

The diffs are filled, one side of the hubs are filled. Tomorrow, the other side of the hubs, finish the transfer case, install the drivelines and do a million checks, before driving it around the block.
It will probably be Wednesday for the first drive. You can probably tell that I am pretty stoked. This much effort deserves a little success to go along with it, maybe.

Ooooooh... Cleaner windows. I like that.
 

Attachments

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,931
9,587
113
Location
Papalote, TX
I wasn't going to make an update, but what the hell.
So, today was pretty uneventful. I have been starting the truck everyday now, while using the block heater for about 1-2 hrs beforehand.
The only thing that I've noticed in the hose from the thermostat, to the radiator had a tiny weep. I tightened it down, but life has taught me to order a new hose, sooner than later.

Also, I have been using a custom fuel tank plug, until I could get one.
So, I've kept the tank at a reasonable 4-6 gallons, until I switch it out.
Luckily, it has arrived. But, I will wait to install it, after my road testing starts.

My plan is to keep this under 50 mph for the first few days. I have gotten the cooling system up to temperature, but I can't say that I trust every end quite yet.
The fuel system is smoother than I expected, but there is always room for improvement.

The alternator isn't being my buddy quite yet and that is the task for tomorrow.
I am only getting 12.3 volts per, or 24.6 volts together, while the engine is running. That is not including running the electrics.
So, I am thinking that it is a combo of a belt tension issue and a regulator issue.
I've yet to pop the cap off the regulator and set it. Since I don't have an rpm gauge, I don't want to overload the system.
However, I think that I can do better than 24.6 volts and get pretty close to 1250-1500 rpms, while doing so.

The diffs are filled, one side of the hubs are filled. Tomorrow, the other side of the hubs, finish the transfer case, install the drivelines and do a million checks, before driving it around the block.
It will probably be Wednesday for the first drive. You can probably tell that I am pretty stoked. This much effort deserves a little success to go along with it, maybe.

Ooooooh... Cleaner windows. I like that.
You can probably add a rebuild to that 60A on your list :(
 

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
It could be worse, I suppose... The good thing is, it is an A0. I never planned to put auxiliary electrics into the system, mostly to keep it as clean as possible.
Hopefully, the local place that built my last alternator is still in business. They rebuilt my old Lotus alternator and did it in less than 3 days.

I've read about floppy V belts at the alternator and worry I am in that camp. I can tighten it more, but at a certain point, I feel like too much tension/exertion creates problems.
Once I've tensioned it near correctly and have closely set the regulator, with negative results, I will submit to the fact that my alternator is the source of the problem.

I've been watching Moab Hummer/HMMWV videos and I gotta say... I want mine to be damn near as capable as theirs.
But, I need to mature as a mechanic. So, this entire thing will be an adventure. Somedays, I am just happy that I make impulsive, yet calculative decisions about what I prefer to drive around town. Life seems to happen, only once.
 

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
Today, wasn't the coolest... I got the transfer case up in the truck, along with the driveshafts. Filled the transfer case, all the hubs, the diffs, etc.
At the end of the day, I was just curious if it would put around the parking lot.
Sadly, I put it into drive and push the throttle and the damn truck barely moves.
I put it into reverse and still, the truck barely even moves, even with rpms.

Needless to say, I feel pretty defeated today and will troubleshoot another day.
Then, the former A pillar that I ordered last week just arrived, damaged.
The transfer case arrived damaged, multiple other parts have arrived damaged, or missing.
In fact, I am on a 1 year Ebay boycott, over someone selling me a broken, misdrilled HMMWV reservoir and not replying to my refund request. Ebay wouldn't honor my return, because I apparently checked the wrong box.

I hate losing weeks, due to someone not securing a package.
For some reason, I feel like I live in the dumbest time in humanity. Most days, I can hardly function around most people.
Most folks can't do basic math or anything. Yet, everyone wants to be paid more, to do less.

So, with this impatience, I need to come up with a new plan. I will check back soon.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
3,582
3,489
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Also… Did you ensure the tranny and xfer case linkages are properly aligned?
 

mow***com

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
65
191
33
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
No and no... To be quite honest, I have been fighting the sun each day for time. Me and time have this thing, but that is for another day.
Now that I am home, relaxed, gathered, I want to prep for another day.

You are correct, there are several things to go over, before I just take a break.
I did notice that the trans level went down, after I checked again. So, I will check the level again, while running.
I will check the linkages, and make sure everything feels right. Everything seemed to feels solid in the transfer case, before I put it in. I shifted it in all positions and got positive clicks and actions in each setting.

As said before... Somedays, just hit harder than others. This can't be the best of me. I just need some time to think, before I act. Lol.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
3,582
3,489
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Before you post asking questions, you should also post things including what you have done and what you have not done and what you know and what you don’t know. It is very helpful information to know that you have not properly aligned the transmission shifter and the transfer case shifter. That changes the complexion of everything.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks