1994 M998A1, Rebuild in Indiana

[RetiredMarine]

A lot of work done there, real nice job and thanks for posting.

 

[Shrapnel]

Wire Fox, sorry the IP swap didn’t get your engine going yet. Exactly where do you get fuel and where does it stop?

 

[Wire Fox]

Wire Fox, sorry the IP swap didn’t get your engine going yet. Exactly where do you get fuel and where does it stop?

Same as before. It's flowing into the pump just fine and the excess fuel all flows through the check valve into the return line. No fuel to the fuel injector lines.

One forum I read for another truck using a DB2 says that these lines need back pressure to start flowing the fuel, so I'm going to try connecting them to the injectors and then cranking a bunch, and just loosening them one at a time to see if I build pressure and flow. It's a very hopeful thing.

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

 

[gimpyrobb]

The best way to get fuel to the injectors(6.2-6.5) is to pull the glow plugs and spin the motor till fuel squirts out the GP holes.

"One forum I read for another truck using a DB2 says that these lines need back pressure to start flowing the fuel" Smoke and mirrors.

Its fuel, there is nothing magical to it





EDIT, only 5gal into an empty tank? You sure there is enough in there?

 

[Wire Fox]

The best way to get fuel to the injectors is to pull the glow plugs and spin the motor tillfuel squirts out the GP holes.

"One forum I read for another truck using a DB2 says that these lines need back pressure to start flowing the fuel" Smoke and mirrors.

Its fuel, there is nothing magical to it

That's exactly as I have it. About how much cranking do you think it will need? I've already had about 10 bursts of 15 second cranking since I saw fuel come out the IP return.

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

 

[Wire Fox]

Double post...

 

[Shrapnel]

I would try disconnecting power to glow plugs and cranking with a little ether. I know a lot of people on here hate ether, but I’ve had good luck.

I also would put more fuel in, probably with antigel. Getting cold soon.

 

[Action]

After replacing a motor and disconnecting the lines at the fuel tank....when bleeding the fuel system, I only loosened the 2 rear lines at the injectors, and unplugged the top wire on the IP. I only had to crank it a couple times to get fuel coming out of the open lines. I tightened them down and plugged the wire back in. It started right up.

 

[ryanruck]

After replacing a motor and disconnecting the lines at the fuel tank....when bleeding the fuel system, I only loosened the 2 rear lines at the injectors, and unplugged the top wire on the IP. I only had to crank it a couple times to get fuel coming out of the open lines. I tightened them down and plugged the wire back in. It started right up.

Good info! Will remember that come time for the 6.5T swap!

 

[SCM35A2]

Subscribed!

 

[ken]

I use a 3/8 squeeze bulb for a outboard boat motor. $15 at Wal-Mart in the boat section. I put it just before the fuel filter. I can pump the fuel by hand with the bleeder open with out over heating the starter and draining batteries. Close the bleeder, then crack injector lines 1/4 turn and crank the engine with wide open throttle. Fuel normally comes out in just a few seconds. Then tighen the lines. It normally fires right up.

 

[gato1070]

Hi,

Wondering how this finished/

Thank you,
gato1070

 

[Wire Fox]

Finished? It's not... but I can update!

Engine was brought roaring back to life with a professional injection pump rebuild. I worked with DieselCare of Tennessee to have them perform a very cost-effective rebuild (under $300) that left me with a pump that fired up the engine with zero issues...about 30 seconds total cranking time had all injection lines purged and the engine fired up.

I switched transmissions...the original 4L80E I purchased was in far too poor of condition to produce any operational capability, so I dropped it and set it aside for future rebuild. In the name of expediency, I sourced another 4L80E from a local shop that was pulled from a running truck and despite some inconsistencies with the 9KYP build spec of that a HMMWV has, it was able to mechanically function in-place. I'm currently dealing with an issue with the transmission computer, so I don't have the electronic shifting available, which is leaving me with only 2nd gear and reverse, so I only drive it for very short excursions for the sake of getting the engine up to temperature and circulating all the fluids. I'm double checking all of my wiring on the harness, but my hunch is that I was sold a defective computer, as the computer has power on the correct pins, yet does not power up to be able to interface with my diagnostic tool. I'll place an update here once I've found the root cause of the TCM issues.

 

[Wire Fox]

So, I've had an oddball concern come up. For a spell, I thought that my 4-way flashers were malfunctioning intermittently, as my turns signals worked 100% fine, brake lights were fine, and every position appeared to do what it should do...except sometimes my 4-ways wouldn't flash at all while testing in the garage. Later on, I ended up realizing the pattern of issue: while I hold the brake pedal (and thus, brake lights illuminated), the flashers stop flashing and will resume when I release the brake. In a normal vehicle, I would expect the brakes to override the flashers, but still keep the front signals flashing while I hold the brakes.

Is what I described normal behavior, or do I need to do some troubleshooting to figure out what's going on in my flasher or light switch?

EDIT: I was sent a PM from someone else that tested this and they reported back that their HMMWV had the same behavior of temporarily stopping flashing while the brakes are depressed. Hopefully this helps someone else that may end up doing the same troubleshooting later on!