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1996 LMTV 1078 cab has not power

ReaperOftexas

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Hey y'all need a bit of help I work with Harris County Sheriff Office out of Houston Tx we have alot of LMTV for our high water rescue. Anyway I have an M1078 for some reason the cab will not power up at all. I've check the batters, cables, test the LBCD and cleaned it, test fuses check the solenoid what Am I missing. Again its a 1996 M1078 thanks for y'alls help
 

NDT

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Can you verify what year you have? 1996 trucks do not have LBCDs. If it’s a later model (A1) truck that does indeed have LBCD and solenoids at the battery box, the recommendation it to remove the solenoids and jump past them. This typically fixes this issue.
 

Ronmar

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Did y0u clean all the grounds? Starter to frame, alt to frame, right frame to cab behind grill. Those are the 3 biggies but there are more…

96 has a polarity protection device, PPD, not a LBCD. Open the power panel dash cover. three round test points on the left, ground, 12 and 24v. Measure voltage there. Keep measuring there and turn on the switch. Is voltage still present? Voltage is not good until measured under load.

On the 98 it uses 12v controlled by the ignition switch to control the 24v ignition relay K2, so no 12v, no 24v ignition power…
 

Ronmar

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The dash test points are designated X1, X2 and X3. Here is a simplified start circuit diagram that shows the basic ignition power circuit.

all this relies on good solid power and ground connections between battery terminals and X1-X3. Also why y0u measure circuit voltage under load. A bad connection can still pass full voltage unloaded, but the voltage will disappear when a load is applied. Like a kink in a garden hose, you will still see full pressure at the end nozzle untill you open the valve at the nozzle, it will spurt briefly then fall to a trickle. This can often cause relay circuits to pulse.

the polarity box is a great starting point as those connections are out in the weather and often a cause of dash power feed issues, but the grounds are equally as important, often overlooked and typically terribly done from the factory(full of paint and relying on janky star washers to complete the circuit…

Good Luck.
IMG_3267.png
 
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NDT

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If anyone before you has been attempting repairs, double check that all relays in the PDP are the correct part number and type and voltage.
 

Ronmar

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Yep, there are a couple places that require 5 pin relays to operate properly.

As seen in the diagram I posted earlier, When K02 energizes it feeds a whole series of circuit breakers to power the various circuits...
 

ReaperOftexas

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Update so I got a relay test to check all my relay everything tested out fine. I did clean all ground wires and the PDP. I have power now got to the power panel now, but I still have not figure out why dash is not power up and still cant start the vehicle. Sorry guys still learning on the fly about the LMTV
 

Ronmar

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1. K02 in the power panel goes click when you turn on the IGN switch(one hand on the relay, other hand on the ign sw), but no idiot panel lights in the dash?
2. Does anything else work when you turn on the ign sw? Relay K02 energizing should power wipers, horn, heater blower, transmission controller(display on, showing N N)... None of that works?

One of the first things I mentioned was that electrical power/voltage is not considered good until it tests good under load. measure voltage at the X1 24V and X3 GND test points on the left side of the power panel(round metal discs with a threaded hole). Got 24V? if so continue measuring it and turn on the ign switch. Still got 24V? A really bad electrical connection will still pass full voltage throughout the circuit UNTIL you try and pull some current thru it by connecting it to an electrical load. the resistance of the connection drops all the voltage...

If you still have 24V at X1 with the sw on, Relay k02 pin 30-87 connects that 24V X1, with a series of circuit breakers/fuses to power all the things I just mentioned. Its the whole bottom half of the electrical diagram i posted near the beginning of this discussion. Look for voltage to and thru CB77 and 79. Pull them both out and install comparable sized standard automotive blade fuses. Those have little bare metal test points on top that allow you to measure voltage on both sides of the fuse. Those two CB's power the idiot light panel and the trans controller. If you are not getting power to these CB's, either K02 is not passing it when energized, or there is something with the wiring on the under-side of the power panel. You can bypass relay K02 using a jumper between pin 30 and 87 in the K02 relay socket. Standard male 1/4" spade terminal lugs and some wire can make a test jumper to test this.
 

coachgeo

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did you find the hidden ground strap in front of the truck and one under the fuse panel (PDP)

 
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