coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,147
- 3,462
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
guess it would matter the engine? If it is total mechanical then likely the wtech II?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
1998 M1078 A0 Wiring nightmare?
- Thread starter DREDnot
- Start date
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
They are all md3070 trans. The wtec is just the generation of control setup.
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 723
- 443
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
What went here? Or more like whats missing from this pic?
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
Upper left corner trans computer is missing. See if the cut wire goes to the bulkhead connector on the drivers side of the hump.
- 10,458
- 6,530
- 113
- Location
- Camp Wood/LC, TX
Question already answered in post #7. Also the flasher module.
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,147
- 3,462
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
Mine isn't. It's an sp3070. If the wiki is wrong someone edit it where it states the MD3070 came about with the A1's.
Point only shooting at is tranny's and the control devices along with the engines sorta evolved together.... so if it was an A1 era tranny as suggested by the wiki then it might as well have had the wtech III that evolved at about same time.... unless the III's did not at all get used with the non computerized engines......
Last edited:
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 723
- 443
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
Ive gone blind trying to find the fuel solenoid on the wiring diagram. Which of these terminals needs the 24v jumper to energize it?
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,846
- 7,476
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
Its located at H57 on the schematic. TL29 is ground(has wires numbered 3015 and 3017 attached), TL28 is the power input(has wires 1441 and 54 attached to it). which normally receives 24V from relay K19 and ultimately CB79... You should be able to confirm ground with an ohmmeter once you break the circuit/lift the leads on one side of the solenoid...
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 723
- 443
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
Thanks for this. I gotta reprint my wiring diagram bigger so I can read it and find those.
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 723
- 443
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
Got a chance yesterday to get the motor fired up. Tried jumping the fuel solenoid but it didn't start. Shot some ether into the filter housing and it fired right up. So, we know the engine at least starts. Now I need to figure out how to get the main harness out from behind the heater assy. so I can see if I can conceivably re-solder the cut wires.
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
I would go with a whole replacement dash harness/pdu
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,846
- 7,476
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
So did the solenoid go clunk when you jumped it? Did you get fuel all the way thru the system like I described back in post #33? If so, it should have started if the lift pump in the governor is pumping fuel while cranking. You can see this with that plug on top of the secondary filter loosened while cranking...
Last edited:
- 3,748
- 1,521
- 113
- Location
- North Carolina - FINALLY !
If you're really intent on trying to fix the harness, pull the heater. Its easy and will make a lot more room to work.
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 723
- 443
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
The solenoid didnt make any noise. But the primer pump did move fuel.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,846
- 7,476
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
Well the solenoid must go clunk, or it wont run...
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 723
- 443
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
Im gonna remove the wires and clean the terminals an jump straight to ground and 24v. Ive fashioned a couple HD jumper wires that I was lacking the first try.
Ive studied the Heater removal chore and plan to move that to get at removing the main wire bundle.
Ive studied the Heater removal chore and plan to move that to get at removing the main wire bundle.
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 723
- 443
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
Update....got the PDP and its harness removed...Like gutting a water buffalo.
Other than the dash cut, The only other cut was this plug in the passenger footwell.
Donor plug
I removed the wires and cleaned the fuel solenoid contacts and with a clean jump to 24V, got a good clunk out of it...so that's good.
Other than the dash cut, The only other cut was this plug in the passenger footwell.
Donor plug
I removed the wires and cleaned the fuel solenoid contacts and with a clean jump to 24V, got a good clunk out of it...so that's good.
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,846
- 7,476
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
Well if you got the fuel solenoid to go clunk, it now might start if you crank it
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 723
- 443
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
Preparing the battle space and got to wondering what material the wire is??? Stainless? Seems unusually rigid
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Last edited:
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
The wire is pretty stiff. You can try to solder and heat shrink each one. Not alot of slack in the dash to begin with though. You might try to find some similar wire to add in and stagger the repairs so you dont have them all bunched at one spot.