1998 M1097 no start

[Brocoflower]

I got my new toy about a month ago and went through the fuel system. Dropped the tank cleaned it out re sealed everything. Replaced the lift pump and the filter. Then used a vacuum pump to prime the system. Yesterday I put batteries in it and glow plug light behaved as it should and it cranked over but didn't fire. I did the normal checks plenty of fuel in the sample drain. I cracked the line at the injector no fuel. I went back to the injection pump checked I have 24v on wire 54 I can hear the relay click but when I pull the return line I am only getting a dribble of fuel I would think there should be atleast as much as there is at the drain if the fuel shut off was working properly. Can i pull the top of the pump? Is that part serviceable? Or am I stuck have the pump rebuilt? What is a good next step? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[MrMikey4026]

Stuck metering valve in the injection pump.

 

[Mogman]

You will not get as much fuel out of the return as free flow unless you pull the return fitting out of the IP there is a check valve in there and it takes 2-4PSI to unseat it, even then the fuel is going through a pump in the IP that may not flow as much as the diaphragm pump does at cranking speed.
If you are getting any fuel out of the return then the IP is getting enough fuel to start, there have been many gummed up IPs lately, the hazards of buying a non runner.
What color was the old fuel?

 

[Brocoflower]

You will not get as much fuel out of the return as free flow unless you pull the return fitting out of the IP there is a check valve in there and it takes 2-4PSI to unseat it, even then the fuel is going through a pump in the IP that may not flow as much as the diaphragm pump does at cranking speed.
If you are getting any fuel out of the return then the IP is getting enough fuel to start, there have been many gummed up IPs lately, the hazards of buying a non runner.
What color was the old fuel?

It was pretty dark I think this one was sitting for awhile

 

[Brocoflower]

Stuck metering valve in the injection pump.

How would I check or fix that

 

[Brocoflower]

Please forgive the new guy questions this is the first time working on a chevy diesel I have worked on Cummins and they all had cam driven injectors no injection pumps. So if it is gummed up can I clean it while it is on the vehicle? If so how pull the top cover? Or if it has to be removed should I just have it rebuild?

 

[Guyfang]

The only dumb question, is the question not asked.

 

[MrMikey4026]

How would I check or fix that
Here is a link to the Stanadyne manual. It will she you where it is and how to get to it. Usually just removing and cleaning it with carb spray and penetrating no oi is all it needs. If the metering valve is truly the problem. And of course the link does not work. If you search Stanadyne manual something should come up.
I have a pump currently torn down, I can take pictures if you need.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...wQFnoECAoQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0H7R3unsgfd_5tT5YgtWsF

[/URL]

 

[Mogman]

You can pull the top and have a look see as to the condition, I think some have managed to get them "unstuck" but I think most end up replacing the IP
Not much you can do on the engine and then if you dismantle it it should be put on a test rack to calibrate it, I have not found anyone that would do that except during a complete overhaul.
If you do pull the top post detailed photos
As you describe to old fuel it looks like it's going to be an uphill battle.

 

[Hummer Guy]

I got my new toy about a month ago and went through the fuel system. Dropped the tank cleaned it out re sealed everything. Replaced the lift pump and the filter. Then used a vacuum pump to prime the system. Yesterday I put batteries in it and glow plug light behaved as it should and it cranked over but didn't fire. I did the normal checks plenty of fuel in the sample drain. I cracked the line at the injector no fuel. I went back to the injection pump checked I have 24v on wire 54 I can hear the relay click but when I pull the return line I am only getting a dribble of fuel I would think there should be atleast as much as there is at the drain if the fuel shut off was working properly. Can i pull the top of the pump? Is that part serviceable? Or am I stuck have the pump rebuilt? What is a good next step? Any help would be appreciated.

Have you checked your glow plugs? I had to crank for almost 20 seconds for mines to start when most of my glow plugs where swollen

 

[Brocoflower]

Well I thought I would give an update. I sent the injection pump out to be rebuilt. The pugged valley drain (that I have yet to get unplugged still working on it)
had allowed enough water to accumulate that it got in to the injection pump and rusted everything shut. So no fuel. I thought while I have everything apart I might as well check the injectors. The injector body is 30 mm and the head will fit in a 22mm wrench. But it did not want to come apart so I went to drastic measures.

there was a slight marring on the head from the vise nothing terrible. It is a good thing I checked because all 8 injectors were stuck

the pin in the top is supposed to slide freely. None of mine would move.

here is what the injectors have on the inside just because I have not found a diagram maybe this will help someone in the future the parts are in the correct order the washer to the left goes on the top piece

The piece second down from the top is a shim they are not all the same size so you will want to keep them together with the correct injector.
anyway after soaking for 3 days in some carb cleaner (available at any parts store)



I was able to get them un stuck. I was worried that I was going to damage the valve but the only way I found to grip everything was with the bench vise and pliers. thankfully it did not damage the parts

After every thing was a part I through it back in the carb cleaner for another 2 days.
Then I cleaned and scraped everything back to shiny like new condition. They are all reassembled now. I had some trouble finding the torque spec for the body and head assembly I think I found the correct one on a chevy diesel site. I torqued them to 90 foot pounds. I hope this is a help to someone. I will update this when I get the injection pump back. Which I hope is soon I would love to hear this thing running.
I did not include the Injection pump removal there are several videos on how to accomplish this on Youtube. If Someone would like pics I can get them on reassembly just let me know. I will say that on the m1097 the accessory belt and plate needs to be removed to get the injector gear bolts removed.
that plate has several water pump bolts on it that cause the pump to start leaking. I found it to be easier to drain the system and remove the cooling stack to do the job made. It really did make the job so much better.

 

[Mogman]

I would definitely have those injectors tested while they are out! plug the holes!!

 

[Runninwild]

Any updates on your Injection Pump? I've got one that I need to figure out if I can clean it up or if it needs to go to the diesel shop. No fuel is flowing through mine as well.

 

[Brocoflower]

Ok so sorry for the delay in posting I have had a really hard time getting supply's I got a cheap Chinese injector tester but none of the pressure pipes fit the injectors. So I bought a pressure pipe from the UK it almost fit but it had to much thread and bottomed out on the injector before it sealed up so I made a couple spacers to go between the test pipe and connector. That took forever. Anyway @Mogman good advise on the test the injectors. All 8 where shooting streams. looked like a high pressure squirt gun instead of atomizing like they should. So I tore down the Injectors again and replaced the nozzles. In the picture above it is the third and fourth piece from the bottom put together for those who don't know. I retested and everything worked correctly. Yay!! On this project I also installed an ac bracket and compressor also part of the delay. I ditched the old accessory belt pulley bracket. Weirdly enough I only had to fabricate one bracket for and idler on the drivers side. there was more to it than that. If anyone wants more info on how to do that let me know and I will post it. mostly trial and error. Anyway I reinstalled the rebuilt injection pump and injectors. The process of bleeding the lines sucked. I basically had to leave the lines loose and crank until I got fuel squirting out of all the lines it took me an hour and a half after getting everything installed. That is because as a beginner I tighten the lines and started cranking like an idiot. leave the lines loose. But at the end of it I got it Running. For those reading through the thread I basically had to rebuild the entire fuel system. But Totally worth it. Point of note REMOVE THE COOLING STACK FIRST. Don't be an idiot like me and try to avoid it. It will only bring you pain and misery where it doesn't need to be. @Runninwild I don't know if the situation is the same my valley drain plug appears to be plugged as in the military plugged it for some reason. So the valley filled with water and got in to the the injection pump. It rusted solid. I know that because the shop told me. I just removed it and took it to a shop and had it rebuilt. I don't have the tools to test and repair a injection pump I figured best to leave it to a professional.