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1st MEP 803a

billbot

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10
28
13
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Been looking for a little while and reading up here. Seemed simple enough. Got kind of a beater at auction. It's a 2008 Fermont with 3500 hours on the meter. Began to feel a little overwhelmed once I got the thing home.

Started with the basic stuff - changing oil, adding coolant and new coolant bottle. Have yet to do the fuel filters and the air filter minder looks good so far. I have replacements just haven't gotten to it yet.

Hosed off a ton of dust inside the engine compartment and blew out the dust in the control box. Hit that a few times actually.

Had some old batteries from my truck, popped 'em in and it fired right up. I couldn't believe it. Alternator not charging - found a blown 10amp fuse and replaced it with the proper one. Easy so far.

Noticed major carbon chunks coming out the exhaust though.

Finally got around to the load test last night. Ended up getting some heater elements totalling 10kw load. Did fine at 7k but going up to 10k the overload tripped after a few minutes. It was already getting late and I was overall pleased with the result but still a little worried.

Got back on this site and did some searching. This morning I got out and really blew out any connections I could get to, then started checking them with a screwdriver. Tightened everything up I could get to. Exercised some of the switches and fired it up.

Did great at 7k, still spewing lots of chunks but exhaust is clean with no smoke except at startup. Put the full 10k on and checked with clamp meter and got 40 on each leg. Ran it for 30 minutes with no issues. Couldn't believe it.

Seemed like the chunks were getting less, but need to get that taken care of. I'm thinking if I run for a few hours at 7k should be good.

Thank you all for the amazing contributions you have made. Just wanted to share a success story.
 

Scoobyshep

Well-known member
1,137
1,511
113
Location
Florida
Been looking for a little while and reading up here. Seemed simple enough. Got kind of a beater at auction. It's a 2008 Fermont with 3500 hours on the meter. Began to feel a little overwhelmed once I got the thing home.

Started with the basic stuff - changing oil, adding coolant and new coolant bottle. Have yet to do the fuel filters and the air filter minder looks good so far. I have replacements just haven't gotten to it yet.

Hosed off a ton of dust inside the engine compartment and blew out the dust in the control box. Hit that a few times actually.

Had some old batteries from my truck, popped 'em in and it fired right up. I couldn't believe it. Alternator not charging - found a blown 10amp fuse and replaced it with the proper one. Easy so far.

Noticed major carbon chunks coming out the exhaust though.

Finally got around to the load test last night. Ended up getting some heater elements totalling 10kw load. Did fine at 7k but going up to 10k the overload tripped after a few minutes. It was already getting late and I was overall pleased with the result but still a little worried.

Got back on this site and did some searching. This morning I got out and really blew out any connections I could get to, then started checking them with a screwdriver. Tightened everything up I could get to. Exercised some of the switches and fired it up.

Did great at 7k, still spewing lots of chunks but exhaust is clean with no smoke except at startup. Put the full 10k on and checked with clamp meter and got 40 on each leg. Ran it for 30 minutes with no issues. Couldn't believe it.

Seemed like the chunks were getting less, but need to get that taken care of. I'm thinking if I run for a few hours at 7k should be good.

Thank you all for the amazing contributions you have made. Just wanted to share a success story.
Run it hard and hot. That will help clear that carbon

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 

Icesythe7

Active member
147
223
43
Location
Indiana, USA
Been looking for a little while and reading up here. Seemed simple enough. Got kind of a beater at auction. It's a 2008 Fermont with 3500 hours on the meter. Began to feel a little overwhelmed once I got the thing home.

Started with the basic stuff - changing oil, adding coolant and new coolant bottle. Have yet to do the fuel filters and the air filter minder looks good so far. I have replacements just haven't gotten to it yet.

Hosed off a ton of dust inside the engine compartment and blew out the dust in the control box. Hit that a few times actually.

Had some old batteries from my truck, popped 'em in and it fired right up. I couldn't believe it. Alternator not charging - found a blown 10amp fuse and replaced it with the proper one. Easy so far.

Noticed major carbon chunks coming out the exhaust though.

Finally got around to the load test last night. Ended up getting some heater elements totalling 10kw load. Did fine at 7k but going up to 10k the overload tripped after a few minutes. It was already getting late and I was overall pleased with the result but still a little worried.

Got back on this site and did some searching. This morning I got out and really blew out any connections I could get to, then started checking them with a screwdriver. Tightened everything up I could get to. Exercised some of the switches and fired it up.

Did great at 7k, still spewing lots of chunks but exhaust is clean with no smoke except at startup. Put the full 10k on and checked with clamp meter and got 40 on each leg. Ran it for 30 minutes with no issues. Couldn't believe it.

Seemed like the chunks were getting less, but need to get that taken care of. I'm thinking if I run for a few hours at 7k should be good.

Thank you all for the amazing contributions you have made. Just wanted to share a success story.
if it doesnt already have it done dont forget this
 

Digger556

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
268
608
93
Location
Denver CO
I
I remember seeing something about this mod at some point, thank you for the reminder. Plan to do this in the near future
I make the MOV mod as soon as I get a unit. Very cheap protection for an expensive regulator.

Congrats on your purchase. If you had the overload fault trip prematurely, you'll want to buy a can of Deoxit and spray out the S8 and S6 switches.
 

billbot

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10
28
13
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Run it 2 hours at 7 KW. Then step it up to 9, and run it an hour, maybe two. Then step it up to 10 and run it an hour, or two. That will clean up the carbon and you have a good running set. Take a bunch of GOOD pictures, up close, and post them. We might see things you dont.
Did some running over the weekend and last night. Removed the muffler and exhaust manifold for cleaning. Glad to see it was all dry.

Total runtime 7-8 hrs mostly 7-10kw. Still getting carbon but no smoke. Fuel shutoff kicked in at some point, now I know the gauge is a little off. Filled it with fresh diesel and seemed to run better than what was in it.

Including a bunch of pictures. Let me know if there's anything more specific I should post.

Spraycan touchup on the top cover. I used what I had around so not a perfect match. Plus it was fairly quick and dirty. Main goal was to make it not look so thrashed.

Also, the coolant bottle was missing. I put a generic tank on it. If it's an issue, let me know. I can use this tank for another project.

Oil pressure has not dropped below about 45psi when fully warmed up with 15/40 Rotella. Not sure what to make of that. I didn't believe the gauge and tested with a known good oil pressure gauge and got a similar reading.

One thing I have been wondering, I found paperwork in the door box. Has been sitting for about 2 years it seems and was marked condition code F which I looked up as "unserviceable". Could that be from the cover and paint being damaged? The operation of the unit seems good so far.
 

Attachments

Icesythe7

Active member
147
223
43
Location
Indiana, USA
Did some running over the weekend and last night. Removed the muffler and exhaust manifold for cleaning. Glad to see it was all dry.

Total runtime 7-8 hrs mostly 7-10kw. Still getting carbon but no smoke. Fuel shutoff kicked in at some point, now I know the gauge is a little off. Filled it with fresh diesel and seemed to run better than what was in it.

Including a bunch of pictures. Let me know if there's anything more specific I should post.

Spraycan touchup on the top cover. I used what I had around so not a perfect match. Plus it was fairly quick and dirty. Main goal was to make it not look so thrashed.

Also, the coolant bottle was missing. I put a generic tank on it. If it's an issue, let me know. I can use this tank for another project.

Oil pressure has not dropped below about 45psi when fully warmed up with 15/40 Rotella. Not sure what to make of that. I didn't believe the gauge and tested with a known good oil pressure gauge and got a similar reading.

One thing I have been wondering, I found paperwork in the door box. Has been sitting for about 2 years it seems and was marked condition code F which I looked up as "unserviceable". Could that be from the cover and paint being damaged? The operation of the unit seems good so far.
The only thing I noticed missing from what is on mine is the metal grating around the fan, I ran mine for about 2-3 hours today and temp stayed at 190 and oil pressure stayed around 48.
 

billbot

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10
28
13
Location
Bakersfield, CA
The only thing I noticed missing from what is on mine is the metal grating around the fan, I ran mine for about 2-3 hours today and temp stayed at 190 and oil pressure stayed around 48.

Sounds good on the oil pressure and temp. Also checked it with a temp gun and got a similar reading, my gauge reads higher though.

The metal grates I took off to get a better look at things. One side was bent up and the other broken so I'll probably just leave them off.

Including some more pictures.
 

Attachments

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,828
5,938
113
Location
MA
And to a statement above, the fuel gauge is not the driver of the low fuel light. That's driven by the double float aux fuel assembly in the tank. It could be bad, misadjusted, hungup, etc.
 

billbot

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10
28
13
Location
Bakersfield, CA
You need to put the MOV improvement on the VR, and get the Quad circuit MWO done ASAP.

If the set stays outside, then the exhaust flap is a must before rain starts.
Got it. Not running it anymore until I get MOV and Quad fuse done. Ordering today.

Forgot to mention I put an elbow on the exhaust for some protection there. I will get a flap ordered as well.
 

jqc99

New member
9
5
3
Location
NC
I need to put a MOV on my 803a, but good lord, for a component that costs less than $0.50 and can be sent in an envelope, shipping is no less than $7! Even from overseas, the cost isn't much different. I've found sources for low quantity nuts and bolts with low shipping charges, but none for electronic components. Does anyone know of a place for the MOV that isn't so pricey to ship? I've checked the usual places (Mouser, Arrow, Allied, Newark, etc.). It's unfortunate we no longer have local places to go to like we used to have radio shacks!
 

Scoobyshep

Well-known member
1,137
1,511
113
Location
Florida
I need to put a MOV on my 803a, but good lord, for a component that costs less than $0.50 and can be sent in an envelope, shipping is no less than $7! Even from overseas, the cost isn't much different. I've found sources for low quantity nuts and bolts with low shipping charges, but none for electronic components. Does anyone know of a place for the MOV that isn't so pricey to ship? I've checked the usual places (Mouser, Arrow, Allied, Newark, etc.). It's unfortunate we no longer have local places to go to like we used to have radio shacks!
Have you tried digikey?

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,145
3,526
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
I need to put a MOV on my 803a, but good lord, for a component that costs less than $0.50 and can be sent in an envelope, shipping is no less than $7! Even from overseas, the cost isn't much different. I've found sources for low quantity nuts and bolts with low shipping charges, but none for electronic components. Does anyone know of a place for the MOV that isn't so pricey to ship? I've checked the usual places (Mouser, Arrow, Allied, Newark, etc.). It's unfortunate we no longer have local places to go to like we used to have radio shacks!
@jqc99 The MOV can't be put in a plain envelope. Envelopes get compressed as they go thru mail handling machines and the part could be crushed. I've tried sending parts in envelopes and they are sometimes crushed. So parts need to be sent in a package and thus package mailing rates.
I could mail you one for $5 which is mostly mailing cost.
The MOV comes with wire lugs pre-attached to make installation a snap.

PM me if interested.
 
Last edited:

Scoobyshep

Well-known member
1,137
1,511
113
Location
Florida
The MOV can't be put in a plain envelope. Envelopes get compressed as they go thru mail handling machines and the part could be crushed. I've tried sending parts in envelopes and they are sometimes crushed. So parts need to be sent in a package and thus package mailing rates.
I could mail you one for $5 which is mostly mailing cost.
The MOV comes with wire lugs pre-attached to make installation a snap.

PM me if interested.
Tell that to Amazon. I ordered a large resistor (think foot long glass tube) and they thought it was acceptable to mail it in a bag. Twice. They did replace it and the 3rd was intact. And for some reason they didn't allow the review. "The third item worked great, the first 2 however succumbed to the shipping injuries sustained by packing a glass tube in a bag. Item 1oo% shipping jackassary 10% (would have been 0 except I had to laugh at 2 rounds of stupidity)"

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 
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