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2" wheel adapter... stock studs too short

mark69k20

mark69k20

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Has anyone else purchased 2" aluminum wheel spacers and found the stock studs to be too short?

I am attempting to install a set of 37" 12bolt Humvee tires & wheels with 2" spacers on my 1028...

I did a quick test fit and found the stock wheel studs are about 3/8 inch recessed with the spacer nuts installed.

Looks like i need wheel studs that are 1/2-3/4" longer than stock:-(

Anyone have any input or know where i can get longer studs without taking out a loan?

Thanks!
 
Cucvnut

Cucvnut

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just recenter your h1's its not very much $$$ return the spacers and buy the centers and cut the of ones out and weld the new ones in and poof correct back spacing.
 
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2deuce

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The wheels look better without being recentered IMHO. Get dually hubs for the front and possibly dually studs for the rear for the spacers.
 
deuce_09

deuce_09

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all the above ideasare good,but they take alot of time.and u wont be able to drive it in the mean time.
just return the ones u bought and do some research.
they make spacers with studs in them. ill try to find a website for ya.
 
Last edited:
mark69k20

mark69k20

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Thanks for the input guys!

I called the manufacture today and he reassured me that 8 full turns of thread engagement is fine for his spacers.
I looked on internet to find that he was right... for a 9/16 stud they want 8 turns... i have 9 turns before doing a final torque so i am going to go with them.:grd:

Now to settle on a 5.5-6" lift kit and i will be in there!
 
C

CapKrk

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Mark...I have the same problem with my M1008. Are you SURE those will work? The studs don't even go through the nuts they are so short. I am seriously thinking about dually hubs. 9 turns does not go through those nuts does it? I put em on and drove around town ONCE slowly but am not driving that truck much. haha

jim
 
C

CapKrk

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I read your reply but didn't like your answer....there. Did that hurt your feelings? FYI I have 4 CUCV's and don't want to screw around when I finally get all these wheels done worrying about which ones have been modified. I want to be able to throw any set on any truck AND I don't have the loot to modify them all.

In the future don't get all butt hurt when people don't love your ideas...there may be a reason.;)
 
mark69k20

mark69k20

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CapKrk said:
Mark...I have the same problem with my M1008. Are you SURE those will work? The studs don't even go through the nuts they are so short. I am seriously thinking about dually hubs. 9 turns does not go through those nuts does it? I put em on and drove around town ONCE slowly but am not driving that truck much. haha

jim
Click to expand...
Jim,
I looked around a bit on the web to see what was out there after the seller told me the 8 turn "rule". ( I never take the word of the guy taking my $$)

Apparently 8 full revolutions is the equivalent to 9/16". Meaning a longer stud doesnt really have any advantage... if those 8 turns of threads on a properly torqued bolt let go it is just as likely to break the stud in half.
I was sure they wouldn't work when i test fit them... I am an aircraft engine mechanic by trade, if we dont have two treads showing it is no good.
Look around on the web and you will find your spacers are prob good to go. That guy told me to use blue loctite and torque to 95ft/lbs.
Hope that helps you make a decision and if you do find out anything else let me know!
 
Cucvnut

Cucvnut

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nothing is wrong with it. you posted a good idea just seems like people are worried about how much thread on the stud will be. and if they are worried about it do it the other way and not worry bout it,
 
nhdiesel

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As a mechanic and long-time machinist, I'll throw in another opinion. 8 threads is plenty. Once you get past max. strength, more threads aren't going to add any strength. Rough rule of thumb for thread engagement is that you want the equivalent of the diameter of the bolt for engagement.

Because of the taper of the lug nut, they are usually much thicker than they need to be for full strength.

From a mechanical and engineering point, the best spacers are the ones with their own studs. The further out you place a wheel on a stud, the weaker it is, and the greater chance of it getting off center. Put a wheel up against the hub and you have full strength. Put it spaced far out on the same stud using a spacer, and the strength is greatly reduced.

Also, older vehicles usually had shorter studs than newer ones. In the 70s and early 80s not many vehicles had aluminum wheels. Steel wheel centers are much thinner, so shorter studs were fine. If you try to use aluminum wheels, or wheel spacers, on many of those early trucks, the studs are too short. Just a little FYI.

Jim
 
mark69k20

mark69k20

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deuce_09 said:
thanks.just wondering if i was being ignored for a reason
Click to expand...
no, not ignoring you, I believe we are talking about the same thing! You posted a link that had a picture of a wheel spacer.....These wheel adapter/spacers are the cause of our issue... I am not going to recenter them because i don't like the way it looks and I plan on picking up a few more of these tire and wheel set ups as spares.... using spacers will make any humvee wheel work not just the ones that are recentered for a ton of $$.

quote
Cucvfreek--
"nothing is wrong with it. you posted a good idea just seems like people are worried about how much thread on the stud will be. and if they are worried about it do it the other way and not worry bout it, "

What?????? I didn't get it:cookoo:
 

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mark69k20

mark69k20

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nhdiesel said:
As a mechanic and long-time machinist, I'll throw in another opinion. 8 threads is plenty. Once you get past max. strength, more threads aren't going to add any strength. Rough rule of thumb for thread engagement is that you want the equivalent of the diameter of the bolt for engagement.

Because of the taper of the lug nut, they are usually much thicker than they need to be for full strength.

From a mechanical and engineering point, the best spacers are the ones with their own studs. The further out you place a wheel on a stud, the weaker it is, and the greater chance of it getting off center. Put a wheel up against the hub and you have full strength. Put it spaced far out on the same stud using a spacer, and the strength is greatly reduced.

Also, older vehicles usually had shorter studs than newer ones. In the 70s and early 80s not many vehicles had aluminum wheels. Steel wheel centers are much thinner, so shorter studs were fine. If you try to use aluminum wheels, or wheel spacers, on many of those early trucks, the studs are too short. Just a little FYI.

Jim
Click to expand...
Jim,
Thanks for the input. I was hopeing for some positive feedback. I don't want to spend all the time and money on this project to have something bad happen.
 
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