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2000 CUCV-II Crew Cab,(The Twin) Florida repair.

Warthog

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You guys are tracking my MV' very closely...lol

Good info.
Better than Ancestry.com. :wink:

Updated when they where built.

My truck was built 28-May-2000 and delivered in Oct 2000 also. Mine has Fed emmission specs, while yours have California specs. I can send you a copy of your RPO codes if you would like.
 
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Stonepicker1

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A little update:
I have a few external oil leaks.
1. One is at the oil cooler line that goes into the oil cooler in front of the rad.

2. Looks like I have oil leaking from the valve covers(mostly on drivers side)

I may have a bad CDR valve that is over-pressurizing the crankcase. I'll replace it with a new one and see if it slows down the leaks. I'll still be pulling the valve covers to reseal them.

I took it for a road test for about 4 miles and it drove great. Going to have to replace the mismatched tires and rims for sure. You do need a large space to turn this beast around...lol
 

Warthog

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Since you can't drive the tan truck, just swap wheels for a little while.
 

Stonepicker1

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Worked on the truck some today.
I removed the turbo to get the valve cover off. Looks like someone had put a new valve cover on(they must of damaged the old one taking it off). I cleaned the old RTV off and replaced the cover with Black RTV. I replaced the old injectors with new ones also. Got to late so had to stop. I will be replacing the glow plugs and start on the drivers side valve cover in the next few days.
 

Stonepicker1

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Spent some time on the truck today,
I removed the drivers side valve cover and found out why it was leaking....who ever did the job before got part of the fiberglass from the firewall pinched between the cover and the head. I also replaced the injectors and glow plugs. Only thing left to do is install the turbo and replace the glow plugs on the pass side. Should have it up and running by Sunday afternoon.

Still waiting on GL to send me the SF-97 so I can get tags.
 

Recovry4x4

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When you need the title quick, GL leaves the country. Sounds good Phil, expect to see it out and about soon. BTW I checked it out (from the car) while in the area, she looks nice!
 

Stonepicker1

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Some pictures of the replacement parts.

They had the wrong Glow Plugs installed.

I may still have some oil leaks...maybe the front crank seal or front of the oil pan. Maybe the rear main also.
I'll have to wash under the truck real good and take it for a test run Monday and see if it still leaking. Got to late on me tonight to check.
 

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Stonepicker1

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Help me understand. What does the CDR have to do with oil pressure?
Crankcase Depression Regulator Valve or CDR Valve for all 6.5 Turbo Diesels 92-02 and 6.2's 88-92. The valve is similar in function to a PCV valve in a gas engine. On a diesel, the CDR valve regulates the amount of pressure or blowby from the crankcase back to the intake thru the turbo. This is a maintenance item and should be replaced every 30K miles as recommended. 6.2/6.5 diesels need to run a slight vacuum in the crankcase and this valve regulates that.
This valve is located on the right hand valve cover (passenger side) and has a hose connection back to the inlet. If you have excessive oil around your turbo, it is probably a sticking CDR valve. When this valve fails, you will see oil in your turbo and intake manifold and higher oil consumption. Likewise excessive external engine oil leaks due to pressurizing the crankcase.
 

Stonepicker1

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From the web...

One of the simple methods used to test the CDR valve is to run a length of clear tubing from the engine oil dipstick tube down to a small bottle containing motor oil. At 1500-2000 rpm, the crankcase pressure should be negative (normal case, CDR valve operating correctly) and draw some oil up into the tubing. On the other hand, if the crankcase pressure is positive, bubbles will be blown in the oil bottle indicating that you have a bad CDR valve.
 
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