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2000 mile road trip in an FMTV

TNriverjet

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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24
38
Location
Clifton, TN
I am going to get on the road this morning, find a valve core remover and a tape measure. Thanks for your help Suprman, and thanks for the advice yesterday.
oh, and Happy Thanksgiving all!
Just FYI, I was thinking about alignment too... I aligned the front previously, but it likely needs checked again since we tightened the loose castle nuts on the tie rod ends at my place.

Pallets of landscape pavers are cheap weight... Keep the Home Depot receipt and take them back for a credit when you get home. Two pallets would be in the 4,000 lb range.
 

Recce01

Active member
129
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28
Location
San Diego, Ca
Just FYI, I was thinking about alignment too... I aligned the front previously, but it likely needs checked again since we tightened the loose castle nuts on the tie rod ends at my place.

Pallets of landscape pavers are cheap weight... Keep the Home Depot receipt and take them back for a credit when you get home. Two pallets would be in the 4,000 lb range.
not a bad idea!!!
 

Givinup

New member
135
4
0
Location
Oklahoma City
i did just do the intermediate axle, and I did not hear from anyone what theirs runs at yet. I am pleased to see a temp drop anyway!
I thought all of the axles called for synthetic 80w-90. This is what I was told when doing the high speed gears.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
Youre doing fine man. Just stay calm and let the truck do its thing if its trying to tell you something is wrong or it doesnt like something listen pull over and diagnose and post on here for answers if need be. There are plenty of very good FMTV guys on here to get you and your rig home.
 

Recce01

Active member
129
50
28
Location
San Diego, Ca
Youre doing fine man. Just stay calm and let the truck do its thing if its trying to tell you something is wrong or it doesnt like something listen pull over and diagnose and post on here for answers if need be. There are plenty of very good FMTV guys on here to get you and your rig home.
thanks man!
 

TNriverjet

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,172
24
38
Location
Clifton, TN
You can use string to measure the distance between the front of the front tires and the rear of the front tires with them set straight. It should be equal. If you don't track straight on the highway that's another indication you are slightly off in the front.
That’s what I’ve seen somewhere too. Alignment should be zero toe.
 

TNriverjet

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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38
Location
Clifton, TN
I second this. The wife would like a Halflinger. 
Or STi drivetrain for her rally car. Just sayin'... 
My wife would think I was speaking in aboriginal dialects if is said “Haflinger” or “STi drivetrain”. Awesome ideas MrsRecce01!
 

Aernan

Member
510
19
18
Location
San Jose/California
I'd bring a loaded grease gun
set of fuel lines
spare trans selector pad
a couple each of the different relays
tool set
38mm socket 20 ton bottle jack long breaker bar 7/8 wrench (for tires changes)
spare light control
spare trans computer
lots of spares for transmission. Have you had those parts fail a lot?

For the tire change. Do you use a torque wrench to set the lugs when you put them back on?
 

Aernan

Member
510
19
18
Location
San Jose/California
Thanks for the advice, pretty sure I came to the same conclusion last night... RE balancing.

I am am going to try the air down trick this morning, but that makes me nervous with aged tires, that was a serious nono for us to do with old rally tires.

The only actual problems were the u joints out of phase on the rear-most driveline (detrimental?), the tires out of round? And maybe the center axle temp, but not knowing much (if anything) about these trucks, I am relying on the experts who suggested airing on the side of caution. I am doing the best I can man, this is a learning experience for me, as I plan to do a lot of miles in the future. Have I mentioned the seats really suck?

Thank you!
You might also try greasing all of the suspension if you haven't gotten around to it. All the shackle to leaf are fine on mine but the shackle to frame is frozen and I can't get any grease in there. There is another thread and special tool to get those un rusted.
 

Aernan

Member
510
19
18
Location
San Jose/California
Does the ctis work? What are you at for tire pressure now? Normal highway pressure for the lmtv is around 65-70psi.
Reading the TM the highway pressure is listed as 55 psi. I'm sure you're right but the TM confuses me.


Sorry please ignore this post I see someone else mentioning the 55 psi.
 
Last edited:

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,130
9,416
113
Location
Mason, TN
You can balance 395s. Even with runflats. . Has a 2.oz weight on the inside as well. Ive ran this tire for over 20k miles

It came off base at RRAD like this brand new.

Fluid balancing is ok but isnt much improvement.


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Recce01

Active member
129
50
28
Location
San Diego, Ca
Ok simp5782, testing your theory, just changed my first tire. I am out of shape, 1 hour, all hand tools....

i also set the toe to 0, and set rear tire pressures to 38 on the rears on an earlier stop. Kinda want to drive now.
 
Last edited:

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,130
9,416
113
Location
Mason, TN
Ok simp5782, testing your theory, just changed my first tire. I am out of shape, 1 hour, all hand tools....

i also set the toe to 0, and set rear tire pressures to 38 on the rears on an earlier stop. Kinda want to drive now.
It takes 45mins to 1 hour to change a flat. Thats normal time even when i have blowouts. Thats pretty good.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
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