It's time to start yet another VIN Info again.
Same rules as before.
PLEASE READ THE RULES BEFORE YOU BEGIN.
1. The more info you provide the quicker I can find your vehicle. Provide as much of the following as possible:
a. Serial Number (
VIN number) ------without dashes or spaces (0123456789 correct, 0123-456789 incorrect)
b. Registration Number -----also without dashes
c. NSN without dashes -----uh, one more time, without dashes
d. Where you bought it
e. Bumper numbers if you can legibly read them
AND IF YOU DON'T KNOW THE NSN, PLEASE LOOK IT UP ON GOOGLE!!!!!! I don't know the NSN for an M151 or M38 or most others. A M35A2 or M35A2 w/w, or all the CUCV series, yes, I know those off the top of my head. Others NO.
And AT LEAST TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF VEHICLE IT IS SUCH AS A M35A2 WITH WINCH, A M105 TRAILER, ETC. I can normally tell but sometimes I have multiple vehicles when working with partial
VIN's.
2. My pet peave is putting I (letter india) and O (letter oscar) in your
VIN or Registration Number. The military only uses 1 (number one) and 0 (number zero). Flub this and be sent back to the read this. (It's a psychological problem that drives me nuts).
3. Don't ask where I get the info from, it doesn't matter and you cannot have access so don't ask.
4. Give me more than just a few hours to answer the mail. I do have a job so in some cases I might not even have time to answer for a few days. I try to handle these on a daily basis but it doesn't always happen.
5. If I give you info, please make a donation IF and ONLY IF you are capable of doing so and then give what you can, when you can. I know a lot of folks are out of work and short on cash. No problem, I have no tracking mechanism to show who gives and who doesn't.
6. My standard disclaimer. I get absolutely no money for any donation. I do this for free and my only gain is the simple fact that your donation goes to a good cause.
7. This thread is intended for the private collector and not for businesses that buy and sell large quantities. If you have one or two vehicles, no problem. If you have a bunch, we need to talk (not saying I won't do it but we need to talk on a PM before you post).
8. ABOVE ALL ELSE, DO NOT PM ME WITH
VIN REQUESTS. I am always space challenged in my PM space. If you are significantly worried about your
VIN info being posted, please remember your
vin number is already out there cause it was posted when the vehicle was sold on GL. It is also available to anyone that wants to do the paperwork to get a list of all vins and reg #'s. It ain't that difficult.
9. I provide the info that I have. The
vin info is based on data inputs from the military and if the soldier inputting the information fat fingered the info, then your info will also show that error. You get what I find.
10. Many will question how vehicles gain so few miles. In many cases these vehicles sit for months or even years awaiting turn in. If a unit gets deployed, the focus is the unit going to war, not turning in old trucks. Even if they aren't deploying, the turn in process is still a low priority over the normal day to day work. Also keep in mind the unit may have 30 or 40 trucks and may normally use 1 or 2 on a routine basis and the rest sit. National Guard has MATES and the Army Reserve has ECS and the Regular Army has the Pre-po program. All these put vehicles into long term storage at which time they do not get many road miles. Not uncommon for them to get 10 miles a year. So don't be surprised if this happens. Mechanics also change the speedos when needed. They are suppose to follow guidelines when this is done to mark the truck. Do they? Very Rarely. During rebuild the mileage is reset. If you want to complain about this, call you congressman, otherwise just be happy. Also, don't forget rule 9 above. If someone fat fingers the mileage on the report.....
11. I can only do Army vehicles. I cannot do USMC, USN, USAF, or USCG. I can do all types of vehicles to include trailers and generators; however, there is only about a 40% chance a specific trailer and generator are in the database.
12. Your vehicle manufacturer will come back as a CAGE CODE not as a name. Use this website to find out what the name of the company is. This also works for when looking up manufacturers in the parts manuals.
https://www.bpn.gov/bincs/begin_search.asp
13. No photos of data plates unless specifically asked to take them and post them. I cut and past the information you put in here into a database search. I can't cut and paste from a photo. Remember this takes me time and I need to keep the amount of time I spend on this to a minimal.
VIN numbers should all run together 0123456789, so don't use spaces or dashes. It just slows me down.
14. Do not confuse the serial number for the registration number or the DTID number. The serial number is your
VIN. The registration number doesn't really correlate to a civilian equivilent. It is worthless except to maintain historical significance. The DTID number is the defense turn in document number. It is the number the DRMO and GL folks use to track the vehicle through the turn in and sale process. It is worthless.
AGAIN, DON'T PM ME WITH VIN INFO. THAT MAXS OUT MY TORQUE WRENCH. If you do send it to me by PM, don't be surprised if I tell you to reinput the information on the vin info thread. I don't do this via PM.
I also have a job and this year I have a major project I'm working. So there will be times I won't answer for days or even up to two weeks. I'll get to it.
For M35A2s the location of the frame serial number is shown below but on some former A1 models it is in the same position on the passenger side even if the truck was rebuilt to an A2 model.
