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2016 SoCal Spring Rally

FASTNOVA

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Yeah, I'm taking out Brutus. If you want we can stop by your place and load up my truck with the firewood.
 
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Gripy

Member
398
3
18
Location
Los Angeles, CA
I'm good on wood. I found a bunch in the Palisades. I guess rich people don't like wood.

On another note I need a new fuel tank. the filler neck is cracked all the way around and wiggles up and down.
 
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True Knight

Active member
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Location
San Pedro, CA
I'm good on wood. I found a bunch in the Palisades. I guess rich people don't like wood.

On another note I need a new fuel tank. the filler neck is cracked all the way around and wiggles up and down.
That's an easy job. Just weld the crack closed! Ha ha ha




DISCLAIMER: DON'T WELD ON FUEL TANKS
 

Bad_Carp

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
695
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Palm Springs, Ca
Will try to make this one, if not I'll be at the fall meet. Just a few things left to do to the truck mechanically before I gut the insides and do the Combat Camper Redux
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,990
4,535
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Location
Alexandria, VA
There actually are safe ways to weld up fuel tanks, and the fact that we're dealing with diesel fuel instead of gasoline is a huge help.

Old timers used to empty and pull the tank and then run a hose from the exhaust of another running vehicle into the tank to displace any dangerous fumes while they weld on it.
Some WWII history of the Panzer Corps i read mentioned one of the major differences between German armor and ours (U.S.) was fuel; Germany had decided to go diesel. Apparently the Sherman M-4's had a nickname among G.I.'s. They were referred to as "Ronsons", and you can guess why.


ronson.jpg
 
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NovacaineFix

Member
662
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18
Location
San Diego, California
There is a guy who I believe is a SS member as well, that shows how to weld using your 24 volt electrical from your MV.

Now the fact that it is a fuel neck makes things a little more difficult, but we are dealing with diesel instead of gasoline, just like armytrucks stated.

Steve, how big is the crack? Can you pull the filler neck out so it can be brazed? Brazing should offer enough strength and sealing to make it work.
Also is it the military 3" neck or a civi 1 7/8" neck? If it is a civi version, one can be swapped out with a quick visit to the local scrap yard.

anyway, here is that video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3vs7WCtRWE
 

FASTNOVA

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Getting stuff ready for the trip and I'm trying not to do things last minute. The fuel shut off solenoid was shorting out on Brutus and out of pure laziness I put off replacing the fuel shut off solenoid even though it is easy to do I would just use the emergency shut down to turn off the engine. I replaced the solenoid, but now when I crank the engine the plunger on the solenoid won't go in unless I push it in manually as I'm cranking. Time to whip out the old test light. Got to love the electrical problems.
 

offroadrunner

Active member
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Location
Huntington Beach, CA
Daniel, that's usually the "starter-relay" (at least that's what it was on my '97 Ram 2500); on the Dodge, that's clustered with the (other) relay that holds the fuel-rod in the operating position - once the starter-relay has energized the solenoid into that position (while you're holding the key - or start-button - in the start position). Both relays must operate for it to start and continue running. Some guys (in the Dodge-Cummins forum) just replace that solenoid with a mechanical cable - because it's fairly common for either the solenoid or the starter-relay to fail - and they ain't cheap.
Cheers,
 

FASTNOVA

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Location
Los Angeles,Ca
Do the 5 tons have a relay for that? I haven't been home to do trouble shooting.
 
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offroadrunner

Active member
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28
Location
Huntington Beach, CA
Do the 5 tons have a relay for that? I haven't been home to do trouble shooting.
I dunno - I just assume it's similar to my (P-pump) diesel in my Dodge. The "start" solenoid pulls a healthy amount of current (to move the fuel-park-rod), so I assume they'd run that through a relay rather than just through a switch alone. The one to hold it there - in the "run" position - takes less current to do that, so maybe? not on that one. (Edit: Of course with 24 volts - it would be half the amps, so maybe? they get away with just using a really beefy switch?)
Good luck,
 
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