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24 volt to 12 volt "module"

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
490
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Yeah sounds like either the temp sensor or card is randomly failing. No rocket science here. Although the average Joe gets scared of 24v even though nothing in the control system is 24v except the resistpr on the firewall. Jeez...

I have an antennaclimber card, actually bought two. Highly recommend it. Going on the better part of a decade without failure.

Honestly, replace everything. Get the updated card, new solenoid is cheap money. Spend the time and get the old plugs out. Put in the revised AC60 plugs, recrimp the connectors so they work. I did all this when I bought the truck and did the injection pump with new lift pump. It had just worked ever since. Bite the bullet and get it all replaced for long troublefree service.

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landstew

New member
7
6
3
Location
Ca
Of course since I last posted everything has been working, until now. So I really have to troubleshoot this, as now it's blocking the driveway.

Two shops to stay away from are Rosa's Truck in South Gate, CA and Diesel Tune in Downey, CA (in the LA area.) I took it to the latter to get a second opinion (more like pick their brain to see if they knew anything about these) and they started to tell me to replace the glow plug relay and all plugs. And I asked why when I tested those and they're working. It's just that the whole system randomly shuts down sometimes. And he proceeds to say well they're bad, and worse, they're no longer available, impossible to find. I told him they're everywhere, and he says we need the special military grade ones. :rolleyes: I just got my truck the hell out of there immediately. Sick of these sheisters. I'm truly left to doing this myself which I really know I should be doing from the start.

Anyway, I'm now off of a working glow plug streak and down again. I see the temp sensor on the driver's side front that runs to the gauge inside. Where is the one I need to look for? Just looked on the rear driver side and don't see it. (It's a bit dark now. )
 

landstew

New member
7
6
3
Location
Ca
Ok think I found it. Driver's side middle in front of the firewall coming out of the head. Jiggled and tapped it, didn't help. Will have to do real tests tomorrow.

Btw, the original shop that handed it off was called Mechanix Pros.. Stay away.
 

antennaclimber

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,370
960
113
Location
State College, PA
Please post an overview of the improvements your card provides over the stock card. Thanks.
The new cards have components that are heavier duty, we added an "Additional Heat option" for those engines that will not start when warm, a Flashing Wait light option and a metal stud so one can easily add a momentary push button without any modifications to the OEM wiring harness.
 

landstew

New member
7
6
3
Location
Ca
So through the -20 manual tests per all of your advice, determined it was the solenoid. Ordered a new one and while i was at it, ordered a temp sensor too.. glad I did because after the solenoid replacement (all of about 15 min, had a buddy help) wait light came on and she started. Yes! But just to make sure, tried again... no wait light! We took off the wires to the temp sensor and wait light came on, put them back on no wait light,. Changed the temp sensor out--another 20 to 30 minutes, inc the wires splicing. Everything is working like a charm!! Have been testing it periodically to make sure, and everything comes on every time, starts better than it has in months. Less than $50 in parts and less than an hour fixed this (and reading the manual and all of your guidance. Much appreciated!) By the way, my card looked flawless, absolutely brand new for 35 years. Was a bit hard to get out, and harder to snap back in. Will be debating changing the plugs in the morning. Picked up 13s and 60s and trying to figure out how much I want to alter things for 60s. But everything is fine now so wondering if I should bother changing any at all?
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
Picked up 13s and 60s and trying to figure out how much I want to alter things for 60s. But everything is fine now so wondering if I should bother changing any at all?
That really comes down to a personal choice. Which one is cheaper? Easier to get?

All that is needed is to cut off the existing connector and crimp on a new .250 connector, so it's an opportunity to refresh that part of the circuit.

I suspect it will work fine either way!
 
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