24v alternator

[wharfman]

How do i hook up a si27 24v 1 wire alternator on a m1008

 

[Westech]

well you still need a 12V alternator. The 24V will not charge the first battery correctly. Remember the only thing 24v is the starter.

 

[wharfman]

THERE HAS TO BE A WAY I TALK TO ONE GUY THAT HAD IT DONE AT A SHOP AND IT WORK GREAT BUT THE SHOP IS GONE I KEEP BLOWING OUT THE 12V STOCK ONE IT COMES WITH I WOULD SWITCH IT TO 12V BUT I NEED IT TO JUMP START A M35 AND M818 WHEN IT COLD

 

[Westech]

dude.. Im telling you its not going to charge the first battery... how the alt works is it senses total voltage. when the first battery starts to get low.. its going to over charge the rear battery and under charge the first battery. Im sure it will run and drive but battery life will be very little.

 

[Sgt Hulka]

No practical way I'm aware of. As Westech points out, you still have to have a charging 12v battery. And if your stock 2 12v alternator - 2 12v battery system is functional, you'll be able to jump your big girls whenever you want. And vice versa. Something is causing your 12v alternators to "blow."

 

[m16ty]

The hybrid 12/24v system the CUCVs have will not work right with a single 24v alternator.

There are ways to make a single 24v alternator work but it would be more complicated than the system it already has.

 

[Mr. Chevy]

the glow plug relay and of course the ever so convenient nato plug are also 24 volt

 

[Westech]

glow plug relay is 12V..... the resistor on the fire wall behind the air cleaner brings it from 24-12V

 

[BIG_RED]

I'm with the other guys.. You COULD use a 24volt on the passenger side and the stock 12volt on the driver side.. use the 24volt just for the 2 starting/glowplug batteries and add another small battery run off the 12volt alt just for turn signals, headlights, blowerfan and stuff. Run the 10 gauge (ish) wire that goes to the center of the 2 big batteries to the small battery, etc. but I agree something is wrong if you've blown a few alts.. I'd look for that rather than mod the whole system..

 

[Stihl029]

It would not be that difficult to run a 24v in the pass side since the two batteries are already in series. yes there is a tap to the 12v and the majority of the truck uses that. so you can in theroy have the drivers side hooked up like stock to output 12v from chassis to the tap. The 24v could if it is a try 24v alternator go from chassis to the +24V battery termial. you will just end up with a lower charge to the second battery since both alternators will be charging the front battery. We commonly hook up batteries in series for NDS sites and DGPS sites. Our DGPS sites are normally running a primary source; but the backup is 144VDC from the bank. We have a three tiered bank in series and all three tiers have chargers. The batteries are just 12VDC so thats 12 hooked up in series, with 3 48VDC chargers/rectifiers. Seems like a rather insane amount of power at first glance; but we have tapped 24v off them with no problem for day use when out doing maintenance without any issues, 12v too.

 

[BIG_RED]

I'd just worry about uneven charging confusing the 12volt regulator.. sending more power to the first battery or something. I agree, it'd work.. but under heavy electrical load, weird things could happen.

 

[Sgt Hulka]

This thread proves once again there are a lot of talented, ingenious and experienced folk on SS. For this humble civilian, I'm going to stick with my earlier assertion: There's no low-effort, high-satisfaction way to do it. Don't take that the wrong way though; in certain very specific situations, it may be a reasonable thing to do--that's up to the individual to decide. And I'm sure enjoying reading the various real and hypothetical configurations. Happy New Year and carry on!!

 

[BIG_RED]

Haha.. I completely agree, Sgt Hulka. Well put. Happy New Year to you too!