24v to 12v Question - Which Wire

[appalacious]

Unfortunately, all this advice is a little late for me.
Address this to all those newbies who have yet to decide to convert to 12V.
J

 

[Ruppster]

Unfortunately, all this advice is a little late for me.
Address this to all those newbies who have yet to decide to convert to 12V.
J

Don't worry about the naysayers J. It's your truck and if it will make life easier for you so be it. If I wasn't living in Alaska I would probably convert my M1009 to 12 volts too. My 24 volt starter died on me last month (it's too messed up to rebuild) and for 2 weeks I debated just going with a 12 volt starter or not. Up here we don't have much as far as junk yards and those we have want a lot for a used 6.2 stater (if you can find one). The nearest used starter I have been able to find is 40 miles away and they want $150. Napa wants $200 for a new one (12 volt though). Yesterday I finally found a Napa clerk that knew how to look up the Wilson 24 volt starter (and yes, I already had the Wilson part number due to another poster on SS) and found out they want $300. I know they can be bought on eBay for around $200 but shipping to Alaska would be around 60 to 80 bucks. So I will most likely pay the few extra bucks and go with the Wilson starter from Napa. This way if it fails under warranty it won't cost me a small fortune for shipping it back.

Anyhow, back to the 12 volt conversion. As some have mentioned the 24 volt system is not all that hard to work with but that doesn't mean much if you don't understand wiring to begin with. I am an electronic repair tech and have no problem dealing with the 12/24 volt hybrid set-up on my M1009. But if I was back in Florida I would convert to 12 volts anyhow to make life easier. A few months ago my wife called me from work telling me she left the lights on and now the truck won't start (she likes to drive the M1009 almost as much as I do). I asked her if she could get a jump start from a co-worker (I had jumper cables in the back of the truck). She said someone there was going to help her but as soon as she mentioned 24 volts the co-worker backed out. That's when she called me. It took me a few minutes on the phone explaining that that was okay and how to do it. It took her a little bit but she was finally able to talk her co-worker in to doing the jump start my way and that it would not harm the co-worker's truck. If the truck was 12 volts this wouldn't have been such an issue.

As I said, it's your truck so do as you please. The biggest down side to converting to 12 volts though is if the MV bug gets ahold of you big time and you get a 6x6 truck then you can't use the CUCV to jump start the truck or jump start your CUCV from another MV with the stock 24 volt system. If that is not an issue for you then have at it.

Ruppster
1962 Dodge C700
1970 Dodge CT800
1985 M1009 Blazer

 

[M1008driver]

I have a M1008 sitting in front of my house right now that will not start. When I turn the key I only get a click. As soon as I am finished typing this I am pulling the starter and hoping for a loose connection or ground. I've traced all the cables and read here and the TM's. Not allot of help coming from this forum for what should be a simple problem.

Thank God my truck broke down at home. I use it for hauling firewood and hunting. Breaking down in the winter could be life threatening. If my starter is bad I will be doing the Roscommon conversion next weekend, the first day of bow season I practiced for all year. I asked about alternators a few weeks ago and only got rebuild is the answer or a $220 Wilson from NAPA.

Why, not because it is better, but because I can get all the parts at almost any parts store. A 26 year old vehicle is going to break. Fixing it should not be so complicated. I appreciate you guys trying to preserve these vehicles, so if I convert mine to 12 volts I will make sure I can convert it back.

Breaking down for almost no reason is not acceptable. No, I do not want a new truck. I will make it a gasser first. Hope I don't need to.

EDIT- I just responded to a several year old thread I found using the search engine...way to go!

 

[Warthog]

So you say all these years talking about starting issues on CUCVs was a waste of time because is was of no use to you?

First thing you need to do is charge your batteries and load test them. You can not do any testing of the electrical system until you for sure the condition of the batteries without knowing that you are wasting your time.

 

[M1008driver]

I appreciate your help, but I've done that. Everything checked out right down to the starter that I need to get checked.

Look, all I am saying is I can buy a lifetime warranty 12 volt starter from Oreilly's and an alternator too which I would not need as the DL alternator can be a spare. If my 24 volt starter breaks I have to get it rebuilt or replaced and wait for shipping. The military system may be better, but not when you are broke down and do your own maintenance. Peace!

 

[Warthog]

If the Roscommon conversion works for you, then go for it. It is a well documented conversion.

What is the problem is the hack jobs some people do.

Hope you find the issue.

 

[M1008driver]

Hope you find the issue.

Thanks Warthog! We found the issue...

We pulled the starter and found there was nothing wrong, so we put it back in and got 24 volts when tested after hooking up the batteries. Then we were puzzled until we saw a spark while checking things underneath. We replaced the battery cable and all worked. The cable had a worn spot.

So doghead was right by pointing me toward the starter. The truck will stay in the 24 volt system. I need to get a spare alternator and starter to keep on hand. I feel more confident we could fix this in a farmer's field if necessary. The tools are behind the seat with a few spare parts I replaced and didn't need too like the starter relay, glow plug relay, and neutral safety switch. Oh, and the old glow plug controller card which still works.

 

[M1008driver]

We even took the truck to the mountains today for some firewood.