2nd Alt - Help on Complete 12V Set-up

[IronDeuce]

I just acquired my first Deuce this weekend. Its been a hoot so far, and looking forward to turning some wrenches on it as a project.

Part of this is adding a 2nd Alternator for all the 12V goodies. I've researched extensively, and already placed an order with George (TM America) so no talking me out of it for a converter or something like that.

I'm confident in my ability to turn a wrench and problem solve some things, but I'm "Electrically Challenged" and have never gone beyond installing a stereo or some off road lights to a Jeep. I'm hoping you all can help me out.

Since I'll be going from "scratch" in this parallel system, I'm in search of someone who can help me get from A-to-B when it comes to installing the system. Here is what I have to install:
- Marine grade fuse box
- Relays
- Radio/CD Player
- Offroad Lights
- Toggles (spares for future add-ons as well)
- Interior Lighting
- Rear mounted offroad lights
- CB Radio

If anyone would be so kind to let me know what they did, including wire guages used, popular suppliers, etc. that would be a great start. The cat's meow would be if anyone got bored and wanted to draft me a complete wiring diagram

Thank you all for help, and looking forward to contributing once I get some deuce knowledge under my belt!

 

[DUG]

I installed one wire 12 volt and 24 volt alternators with Georges kits. After they were mounted in place my wiring went like this -

The battery feed wire was hooked up to the post on the 24 volt alt. You only have two wires that you removed from the original 24 volt system and it's the bigger of the two.

The smaller wire is factory connected to the ignition switch. I connected it to a relay so the 12 volt side would be switched on and off. (Simply route it to one side of the relay and the other side of the relay goes to ground - just follow the instructions)

The battery feed wire from the 12 volt alt goes to the switched side of the replay. The relay I used has one terminal in and two out. On the out terminal side I ran a wire to the 12 volt battery positive side to keep things charged up. On the negative side of the battery I ran a ground to the same place the 24 volt side is grounded (in the cab at the passenger seat).

Back up at the relay I used the remaining out side of the relay to feed my fuse box in the cab. All my 12 volt goodies, except two are plugged into the fuse box with their positive leads and then grounded as per their individual installation instructions. So my heated mirrors, USB power strip, 12 volt plug power strips, electric wipers, slow side of my heater, etc all plug into the fuse box and have a properly rated fuse as per manufacturer's recommendation.

Two 12 volt items are not connected to the fuse box. The first is my small 12 volt winch in the truck bed. It has a hard wired controller and I'm afraid it could get accidentally activated. The winch is connected directly to the battery with marine wing nut type connectors. The ground is left disconnected unless I plan on using the winch.

I have one cigarette style power adapter mounted behind the passenger seat wired directly to the battery. This allows me to recharge phones, iPods etc without the truck running since the fuse box is secured when the truck shuts off.

You dont have to use a relay. You could use a simple on off switch for your 12 volt side. I wouldn't suggest leaving it HOT with the truck off though. (ie wiring the fuse box directly to the battery)

PM me your number and I can give you a call. It's not that hard - My 13 year old (at the time) did most of the work.

 

[59apache]

you can see my installation if you click on the links in the sig.

for toggles read this:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/82903-my-cab-upgrades.html
very nice job! another benchmark!

nothing more to say...
with advise from DUG and George you'll make it.
You'll love it!

 

[IronDeuce]

Thanks guys!

Dug - for the wires themselves, did you go with a standard guage for all components (Radio, CB, Lights, etc...?) I'm thinking 10 or 12 would be good to run with.

For the Alt feed, is 10 adequate, or should I be looking at 6?

Also, did you go with a 1/0 AWG for power/grounds, or 4 like others I've seen?

Thanks again guys!

 

[andytk5]

Great stuff. I have that bracket as it is definitely the way to go. The seperate 12V setup, to me, is the best bet as you have a dedicated battery/charging system to run your other stuff. I just need wiring and a belt, but I am holding off as I plan to run the a/c compressor off the air compressor belt run and need to grind a relief in this bracket for the a/c belt.

Glad you're enjoying it. Man I love mine too!

 

[IronDeuce]

Thanks guys!

Dug - for the wires themselves, did you go with a standard guage for all components (Radio, CB, Lights, etc...?) I'm thinking 10 or 12 would be good to run with.

For the Alt feed, is 10 adequate, or should I be looking at 6?

Also, did you go with a 1/0 AWG for power/grounds, or 4 like others I've seen?

Thanks again guys!

 

[Seth_O]

I did this same setup - using TM America's alt brackets and absolutely love it. I used 4 ga ground wire, everything else is 10 or 12 ga. 12v doesn't put out a ton of power, so you don't need to get crazy on the wire size.

I ran switched power to a 24v relay to turn the 12v on, so I don't have 12v power on when the master power switch is turned off. This helps me prevent any unintended power drains anywhere.

Good luck with your build, I'm not great at the electric stuff either. I've found that if I sit down and think through it I can usually figure out how to accomplish what I want to get done.

 

[Bad_Carp]

My 13 year old (at the time) did most of the work.

You could probably make a decent income just shipping Soldier B around the country to work on trucks. Kid knows how to do just about everything needed for a deuce now.

 

[IronDeuce]

UPDATE - Progress!

Making good progress with the 12v goodies thanks to the 12v Alt set-up from George, and some basic input from members.

Here is an update thus far:
* Added Delco Alt, bracket, and wiring to old Optima Yellowtop
* BlueSea fuse panel
* Added switch panel with
- Alternator toggle
- 12v Battery Gauge (measures charge, not a voltmeter) on a momentary switch
- Radio on/off switch
- 3 extra blanks for additional uses
* Pyle Marine Grade Stereo
* Custom ammo can speakers
* 12v Voltmeter installed under steering column where the dash splits
* Picked up a nice comm system on Ebay, used and broken, but fixed now!
- Dash mounted to a cheap but awesome universal bracket found on e-bay.
* Midland CB connected to PA Speaker

Comming soon...
- Interior Lights
- Reverse Lights
- Dual 12v Outlet
- May flip batt to deep cycle

All of this has been completed with 10 and 12 gauge wire (little on the safe side). Going to check the batt this weekend to see how its holding charge... may add an on/off on the positive side with any drain.

Will also add some more detailed pics in the coming weeks as it progresses.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Just to clarify, the 12v and 24v systems are ok to share the chassis for grounding? You don't have to isolate them?

Also where can I get the 24v/12v relay used to turn on the 12v system?

Thanks!

 

[nk14zp]

Just to clarify, the 12v and 24v systems are ok to share the chassis for grounding? You don't have to isolate them?

Also where can I get the 24v/12v relay used to turn on the 12v system?

Thanks!

Yes they share the same ground. I used a napa 24v relay in the wifes bobbed m35a2 to switch the 12v.

 

[andytk5]

I also used the same ground. I just used a switch on the dash to turn it on and off.