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3 switch BO light switch is dying

Somemedic

Member
531
0
16
Location
Hobart, IN
The BO switch that controls the lights wont let the headlights come on. They come on for a second and then I hear a metallic klink inside the switch and ALL lights shut off momentarily. After a bit they come on IF I return the headlight switch into the stop/park lites position. The light lock didnt work when I picked it up at shelby and I notcied the other day when the headlights were on the front parking lights wouldnt light up, only when the signal switch was activated, which it doesnt seem to want to blink anymore, just stay on.

The headlights did work today, before the rain started. Replace the BO switch since it cant be taken apart and cleaned?
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
5,326
290
83
Location
Gravette Ar.
I notcied the other day when the headlights were on the front parking lights wouldnt light up, only when the signal switch was activated, which it doesnt seem to want to blink anymore, just stay on.

The headlights did work today, before the rain started. Replace the BO switch since it cant be taken apart and cleaned?
The front "parking light" are just that parking lights they do not come on with the headlights. The clicking sounds like it mite be the circut breaker in the switch. I'd check for a short befor putting a new switch in you may mess up the new one.
 

Somemedic

Member
531
0
16
Location
Hobart, IN
That switch is the same, doesnt matter if its a M151, M35 or any MV that uses it? I will drive it to work tomorrow and try to trace it down. I mean its rained a bit before but the lights still worked, just seems to be gettin worse.
 

N1265

Active member
1,000
5
38
Location
Fremont, Ohio
All of the American 3-lever switches will interchange, The number on the switch should be : MS51113-1
( according to my research some are just numbered MS51113, why I don't know )

The best deal for a new one that I found was from OD Iron, I think it was $48. plus shipping.

Mine did the same thing as far as getting worse and worse and worse. It got to the point that I couldn't even run the lights for more that 20 min. they do go bad, but I think JASONJC is right when saying you should check for a short first. Giving the symptions you described it sounds like you have something else that could be wrong.....
 

boomer

Member
647
2
18
Location
Illinois/Wisconsin
It's the same for all M Series. They can be rebuilt, but easier to swap with a new one. Grab a spanner wrench, or a "channel locks"- for the connecter. If your strong, you can unscrew the ring and tighten it, by hand.
Boomer
 

Somemedic

Member
531
0
16
Location
Hobart, IN
Switch fine. On closer inspection the wiring is GAWD AWFUL... touch anything and it starts crumbling. Some motorpool electrician decided to wire some sort of 'Y' splice into the rear tailhousing and it had rubbed thru the insulation. pulled the splice out and directly connected the the tail light to the main pigtail and (angels singing) the headlights came on.

Directionals and brake lights are next...
 

bob b

New member
40
0
0
Location
pottsville pa.
b.o.drive light switch

the b.o. drive light switch in my deuce broke on stem of lock switch are the any switchs out there that have metal stems for levers as oposed to plastic stems like i have on my deuce
 
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