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3116 turbo upgrade ??

gjswt19

New member
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Texas
Uh. Simple. Put on turbo. Increase fuel. Install Pyro and boost gauges. Load truck with weight or a heavy trailer and find a hill. May be a challenge in Texas though

While driving monitor Pyro vs boost and foot position. Blowing black smoke under Load vs its pulling power at a certain point. You will know when it's right after a few adjustments

Its mechanical. Noone is gonna get a good setting from only 1 adjustment
I've thought about that just don't wanna screw anything up
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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Mason, TN
It states that you cannot run a water cooled turbo without connecting it.
He means a T to divert water to the turbo from existing heater lines etc.Since it will not have the pressure or flow that a direct line plumbed in would being pushed by the water pump
 

Ohiobenz

Well-known member
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He means a T to divert water to the turbo from existing heater lines etc.Since it will not have the pressure or flow that a direct line plumbed in would being pushed by the water pump
I was referring to the "simply not use" statement.
Unless I misunderstood, you cannot run a turbo designed with water cooling without connecting it correctly to the cooling system.
 

Ohiobenz

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Gjswt19, I will be running my coolant from these locations, except with 1/2" stainless lines and fittings.
If you need a parts list PM me, and I can bend an extra set when I do mine.
Fittings should arrive in a week.
 

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Ohiobenz

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Seville, OH
I'm really curious to know the amount of effort (hours) it took to swap out and plumb that. It looks good though!
This isn't my turbo swap. This guy went to a VGT turbo and external controller on top of water cooled CHRA, plus a custom exhaust manifold....
Way past my ambitions.
He simply shared his coolant routing with me.
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
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Port angeles wa
Gjswt19, I will be running my coolant from these locations, except with 1/2" stainless lines and fittings.
If you need a parts list PM me, and I can bend an extra set when I do mine.
Fittings should arrive in a week.
I wouldn’t call that the best plumbing... the two places the water lines are connected to are effectively the same pressure. The water exits the pump on the rear of its housing, flows back past the oil cooler then thru the block toward the rear, past where that rear most turbo water line is attached. The coolant then flows up and forward thru the head and out the forward port on the side of the head and into the thermostat housing where the forward turbo coolant line is attached?

I don’t see a huge incentive for flow here Since both lines are connected to the pressure side of the pump... The thermostat housing does have a bypass port back to the pump suction side, but only when the thermostat is closed, Since the thermostat acts as a restrictor, that housing is a pressure point...

This is also how they get enough differential pressure To feed the heater... From the thermostat housing, out to the heater valve and core then back to the water pump inlet down under the alternator.

You can Actually see that the thermostat housing is a pressure point by removing the pressure cap on the expansion tank and starting the engine. Look in the pressure cap port and note the coolant flow. The line supplying that flow is coming from the T on the thermostat housing where the temp sensor is located...

The demarkation line between pressure and suction is the restriction created by the thermostat disc. IE: everything between pump outlet and thermostat disc is considered to be under pressure and everything after thermostat disc back to pump inlet is considered to be suction... You need to connect to these two different pressures to get flow...
 

Ohiobenz

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Good point. Like I said, not my setup, always open to advice that has logic behind it.
So, if I Tee into the water pump output to the air compressor, and come back into the thermostat housing on the back side, I've basically copied that loop....
 

Ronmar

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Port angeles wa
Yes, but the way you described it is backwards. the ports on the water pump that have fittings on them are inputs/return ports. The only pump output is on the back of the housing where it is sealed to the block with an Oring. Using Supply and return ports above the turbo will preclude thermosiphon after shutdown.

Using the pic above for reference, I would shift the lower hose forward to and add a T to the heater return line Under the alternator. The upper line I would re-route and make it run with as much upslope as I could get. Adding a larger gauge T to the upper port would be best IMO as it adds vertical component to the run. this path would parallel the heater circuit... when running flow would be top to bottom and when shutoff, flow would reverse and flow bottom to top.

Thermosiphon is a real low energy process powered by density changes in relation to gravity. So horizontal adds only drag and does nothing to contribute to the process and humps in the line just flat kill it.

I have built several generator sets over the years. The 2 I currently have, both Diesel and both don’t have water pumps, cooling using only thermosiphon To circulate the coolant...


CB986609-62EC-4528-9182-C15C2CECDC9B.jpeg
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,812
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Location
Port angeles wa
What about using this coolant port for the top hose?
Yep, thats what I suggested. The top port is using a Reducer, I would put a larger T fitting there. Was contemplating Removing that small line, but you need to keep it to help get air from the high point of the thermostat Housing up to the expansion tank When purging the air from the system...

I am in the process of re-designing that part of my cooling system so I can relocate the expansion tank for a habitat build...
 
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