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36-3580 HD HEADLIGHT HARNESS Questions M1009

Slowburn

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http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=70

36-3580 HD HEADLIGHT HARNESS W/SINGLE CHEVY GMC 73-87
Q1.) Is this is the correct harness for the M1009? ('85)
Q2.) The spade-ended connector from the new 36-3580 harness plugs into the factory wiring via the female connector that was on the passenger side headlamp?
Q3.) The battery terminal ends on the new harness are attached to the positive terminal on the front battery?

Any additional cautions / information / tips will be sincerely appreciated.
 

Gov Junk

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Yes to all 3 questions. I just installed this same system on my truck and WOW what a difference. Very straight forward and simple install.
 

2002ford

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It would have to hook up to the front battery. Its the only 12v source. The grounds will reach the factory one on the core support. Right now my wiring goes over the fan shroud. Its ugly...... I put this on a M1008 I am working on. I hoped it would help with my no head light issue. But it did not. The set up looks well made and I can see its perks. I have a second one going on my M1009. I will keep you all posted.

I bought a new headlight switch for it. I hope to have it on tm if the weather works out. If anyone has had this issue please PM me. I also have no Brake lights but the running lights work. Yikes.

I hope I didnt hijack this thread. Sorry
 

2002ford

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FYI you need bigger ends for the ground wires if you are using the original grounds on the core support. No biggie.
 

Slowburn

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Respectfully requesting: Recommendations for location and attachment of the relays.
Recommendations for location and attachment of the new harness ground wire on the battery side.
Recommendations for location and attachment of the ground wire on the driver’s side.
Recommendation as to whether or not it’s advisable to seal the back of the new wiring harness connectors.
Finally, I hope…are the factory ground wires still a necessary part of the circuit?
 

xenocath

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I routed my harness behind the grill and through the radiator support in front of front battery mounted relays just to the side and behind front battery on the firewall. attached the positives to the positive terminal bolt on front battery with the addition of another battery nut. i added a new ground for each light by drilling and using a self taping screw leaving stock grounds untouched use star washers if you have some. i used the same trick with the main ground onto the negative post of front battery, that i used for the relay positives.i have had this set up on my truck since i got it, it stands up well.
 

Warthog

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I'm was thinking about building some harnesses made just for the CUCVs.

Only thing is the cost would be higher that the $30 for the LMC unit.

not going to happen.
 
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K9Vic

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Granted this is a 1990 GMC Suburban but routing on a CUCV will be very similar through the access holes in the radiator support. It is easier to do this with the grill out, but you can from the underside. Since the harness is yellow I added black tubing so it cannot be seen. I will wrap the plugs in electrical tape to seal them from the elements as well. I also extended the ground to the factory position at the top of the rad support as the original wire is too short.

.
 

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Slowburn

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I'm thinking about building some harnesses made just for the CUCVs.

Only thing is the cost would be higher that the $30 for the LMC unit.
“Warthog’s Heavy-Duty Headlight Wiring Harness Upgrade for the CUCV”
Has a nice ring to it, don’t you think?
FWIW, I’d have paid double the price to have one.
And thanks for all the helpful info you‘ve provided.
 

natemccabe

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how many relays and how much wireing is involved in this harness upgrade. I'm looking at putting one together myself; living in Alaska has its perks but at the same time doubles the price of anything from LMC.
 

Abbylind

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how many relays and how much wireing is involved in this harness upgrade. I'm looking at putting one together myself; living in Alaska has its perks but at the same time doubles the price of anything from LMC.

2 Relays sir. Make sure they are rated for 20-30 amps. One relay for low beams one relay for high beams. The trigger for the relays is the original power from the high and low beams. 12v power from the battery goes to the other pole of the relay. The other side of that pole goes to the light bulb. The other pole on the trigger side of the relay goes to ground. When you turn on the headlight switch power goes to the low beam relay trigger. This causes the relay to close, 12v then goes to the new bulb (the other side of the bulb is grounded) VIOLA! light! The same applies to high beam circuit. Im going to put in some HID lights in mine. Same relay circuit works for that application YMMV.
 

85CUCVtom

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So since your switching a relay with the headlight switch and not the lights directly that would decrease the current flow ( amperage) through the switch, correct?

Is this also going to decrease the amps through the headlight fuse in the fuse box?
 
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