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5.9 Cummins, NV4500, Hydro-boost, and Disc Brakes

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
If a disc brake system was never meant for a truck over one ton they would not have been put on civilian vehicles!
Ford F550, F650, even some F750's, Chevy 4500, 5500, 6500, Hino's, just to name some off the top of my head.
I have seen full disc systems with NO air assist or drums.
Just sayin. Don't want to be a shmuck or nothin.
I would think a disc set up on a duece would be fine since there are commercial vehicles out there heavier, than a duece, with them.
Just my 2 cents. Take it or leave it.
My Chevy c-6500 has full disk brakes all the way around. It tips the scales at about 23,000 pounds and stops like my half ton Chevy. As long as the system is designed for that kind of weight disks work excellent.
 

mudguppy

New member
1,587
15
0
Location
duncan, sc
yeah, still none. I had tried to make it down to the FL rally but that got cancelled last minute and I could not change that fast and get up to Haspin. Would have been several in either of those events. Otherwise, I'm in the middle of another project with the little bit of time and have not had much time to spend on her short of the list of things to do / fix (new wheels, un-wrap battery cable from drive shaft, etc.). excuses, excuses... on another note, why does the 'enter' key not allow a paragraph return...??? seems like every time i'm on this site there are more "improvements" and less things work... embarrassing, really. :doh:
 

treva2

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
53
2
8
Location
ohio
Amazing build. I have read this entire process 3-4 times over the last year. I have also been so impressed that this past Tuesday, I bought a Cummins 5.9 – 175 hp engine and plan to sell my LDT-465.
I have a growing list of questions:

1. Could you give me contact info for the company that converted your alternator to 24 volts?
2. Why didn’t you connect the starter to the 24 volts?
3. Did you keep any patterns of the motor mounts you made?
4. I bought a NOS radiator for my Deuce. I was wondering why you chose to use the Dodge radiator?
5. I plan to use the NV4500. Could you explain the issues you had hooking up your NV4500 to the Deuce trans case?

Thanks for your help.
 

mudguppy

New member
1,587
15
0
Location
duncan, sc
Amazing build. I have read this entire process 3-4 times over the last year. I have also been so impressed that this past Tuesday, I bought a Cummins 5.9 – 175 hp engine and plan to sell my LDT-465.
I have a growing list of questions:

1. Could you give me contact info for the company that converted your alternator to 24 volts?
My local alternator/starter shop helped me find this company - not that there aren't others out there, but these guys are who I could find. They did a great job and a low price: I dealt with Rob at Hoosier Electric, 219-844-8389. He simply asked me to send him my stator and rotor and he would rewind. So the local shop disassembled, I sent the rotor/stator, then local shop reassembled after I received rewound pieces.


... 2. Why didn’t you connect the starter to the 24 volts?
I actually did have a 24V starter built and that is what I used. It does seem a little vague in the write up, but I did have the local shop build me a 24V. I did this for amperage draw, but could have left it 12V. However, since 24V are readily accessible, so I would do it again.


... 3. Did you keep any patterns of the motor mounts you made?
No - I made some hand sketches and built from that. I do not remember if I explained that I used a different driver's side motor mount - the stock Cummins mounts are different from one side to the other, and is kinda funky. Justin Wehring informed me of this and I'll have to look at which other cummins mount I used. It wouldn't have been a problem, but this let me build the two frame mounts identical.


... 4. I bought a NOS radiator for my Deuce. I was wondering why you chose to use the Dodge radiator?
This will take some planning; it did for me. Intercooling was imperative for me. If I did not need that, then I feel I could have reused the stocker and the swap would have been easier. I could have likely either used a mechanical fan or a simpler electric. But since I wanted the intercooler in order to make reliable power, then I did not feel like the stock deuce rad would be able to cool well enough. The Cummins motor I had was a 2175 CPL at 215hp - however, even with 210 vs 130hp, I would not have done this swap with 1600s tires. While 175hp and 210hp are tremendous power improvements (not to mention at least 50% more torque) over the MF engine, this was a lot of work and I am performance-oriented. The motor is at about 350hp/800tq... that helps make the work even more worth it to me. And these power upgrades were only a few hundred bucks.

I went with stock Dodge rad because I had it, it mated with the intercooler, and an upgraded Dodge rad would be a bolt-in if needed.



... 5. I plan to use the NV4500. Could you explain the issues you had hooking up your NV4500 to the Deuce trans case?
I knew that the 2wd version of the Dodge NV4500 had a very long slip yoke that would be way too long. While looking for rebuilt '4500s, I contacted a guy that builds them on Ebay and discussed. Before I could suggest a GM short tailhousing, he said he could do it. So sent me a rebuilt NV4500 with Dodge front and GM short fixed yoke rear. (His name is Jim - I have his number if you need)

I then had to get a custom yoke-shaft built from my local driveline shop. This was pieced together from a specific combination of compatible splined yokes and slip yokes. There are many lengths available off the shelf from Dana Spicer in the 1410 range - the trick is finding the right combination that will give you the length you need with enough slip/travel to insert/remove and account for driveline movement. A good driveline shop should be able to help and will know exactly what a 'yoke-shaft' is. Mine was somewhere in the neighborhood of 8-3/8" nominal... yours will vary depending on final engine placement.

... Thanks for your help.
No problem. It was a lot of work and I learned a lot. The things I planned for went well. Amazingly, the things I did not plan for also went well. Please let me know if I can help with anything else.
 

pimpcey

New member
9
0
0
Location
ely nevada
Awesome build! As far the disc brake arguement look at a new age haul truck. All disk brakes. 240 ton trucks using disk brakes. Do you have a video driving it after the 5.9 swap?
 

mudguppy

New member
1,587
15
0
Location
duncan, sc
hoping to get an update. ... how does she drive down the road and at highway speed?
purely enjoyable. really has the power to get to whatever speed you need - no trying to wind out a gear to make sure you get to the right speed. just press harder and you'll get there no matter what gear.


... Do you have a video driving it after the 5.9 swap?
I know, I know... I haven't taken any more videos at all. I've been asked many many times and I just haven't done it. I really do mean to... time keeps getting in the way. I will try to make a concerted effort.
 

mudguppy

New member
1,587
15
0
Location
duncan, sc
So if you had it to do over again, what would you do different in your build, if anything?
I've been thinking about it. Besides the usual desire to do the work cleaner next time (I always intend to do perfectionist things like running all wires perfectly and nicely loomed but it never actually happens as clean), I don't know that I would do much differently.

The engine is perfect for the truck as far as power, sound, size, and reliability.

One area that I would pay more attention to (and likely still will) is the suspension - the truck is quite smooth on-road, both hi-way and around town. However, off-road, it is only so-so. I find myself having to maneuver at a crawl to keep my passenger's head off the cab and/or window. I really would like to build a better suspension so that some off-road activities are smoother. I do intend to look into building a 4 or 5-link suspension with some heavy sway bars to keep on-road manners.

As far as the repower, I would reconsider keeping the OE transfer case - many other systems were limited by this beast in the stock location. I feel like relocating the transfer is possible but is also a good bit of work. I would feel comfortable with removing it and swapping in a more modern transfer case, possibly one already married to a transmission. If I didn't have the transfer limiting OAL of the trans and/or dictating the engine position, I would have went with a ZF6 6-spd trans - just a much nicer tranny. Then, at that point, I would look at marrying either an OE NVG 272HD type transfer or possibly an Atlas, Stak, or other modern 'case with more gearing options. Heck, even an NP203 would be a neat box to put in and have full-time 4wd. 203/203, 203/205, or ORD Magnum box / 205 would be great options as well.

So, I guess having not to work so hard to limit the transmission options due to length would really open up some other powertrain packages.
 

mudguppy

New member
1,587
15
0
Location
duncan, sc
... Also, besides shedding the weight of the extra axle, is there any real benefit to bobbing the truck?
I wanted 1600s, and you can't fit them on a stock deuce without doing a lot of work to the rear suspension. Also, the biggest benefit is overall size - maneuverability is a good bit better being 3' shorter in length and shorter wheelbase.

However, the rest of the value is in aesthetics - if you like that sort of thing.
 

kf4hoq

Member
118
1
16
Location
Rock Hill, SC
Gotchya. Those tires do look like they'd make the rig more stable than the stock tires. And the bobbed look does make it look like a great big ol' pick-up truck!

Are you planning on leaving the bed alone, or hinging it and putting a hydraulic lift on it to make it dump?
 
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