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5 ton rear axle seal fix procedure

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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I have no stake or side in this discussion but was near an oil bathed hub with a sight glass, so I figured I'd post a picture for reference. This hub is not on a powered axle.

IMG_20141207_090707_894.jpg
 

Tow4

Well-known member
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Orlando, FL
Those are drawings to me and not to scale.
This is to scale. The fill plug is further below the center line of the axle than I thought. The weld on the axle tube is a good indication of the CL in case you are wondering.

IMG_20141207_153315_854.jpg
 

zebedee

conceptualizer at large
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About to tackle this job - had to do a 'reply' so I can find the thread again! Thread tool - subscribe etc...

Search for "Drum" was the closest I found - even then I had to wade through a load of irrelevant postings. Winch drums etc. NB. Search for "brake drum" gave rise to too much on the air systems/conversions etc., of the 900 series.

Is there a "stickies" for good maintenance tip threads?

Maybe I'll do an expose' on making simple hub sockets.
 

Zoidsfan77

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Columbus, Ohio
Very nice write up! Thank you for taking the time to share and document so well!
I need to do this job shortly. My rear rear axle is leaking like a sieve (both sides), the rear leaks a bit too, but not as bad.
My fronts need new boots on both sides.

Thanks again!
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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Very nice write up! Thank you for taking the time to share and document so well!
I need to do this job shortly. My rear rear axle is leaking like a sieve (both sides), the rear leaks a bit too, but not as bad.
My fronts need new boots on both sides.

Thanks again!
Check your axle vents, if they are stuck or plugged the rears WILL leak (axle seals and in/out put seals).
 
Last edited:

maxxplanck

Member
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Location
Fowlerville, Michigan
Just had a question

hey guys , the gasket around my rear hub is leaking so I ordered a set of new gaskets. Figured I would pick up two just in case. when I got them they seem so thin compared to the gasket on the hub, ( I haven't removed the old gasket yet, just a visual look ). Do they sell a cork gasket or maybe a rubber gasket ? I included a pic of the two new ones. Thank You
 

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jhooah

Member
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Carrollton/Virginia
I bought a dual wheel lift at DRMO a few years back that sits idle 99% of the time. Basically you jack the truck up to get weight off the tires, stradle the Duals from the outside, crank the handle and it will lift the the tire assembly up while still mounted on the hub, allowing you to remove the entire hub while wheels are still bolted on. (pull axle out first) Now $200 and a used one are hard to find, but if your creative and fashioned a dolly out of steel or wood that you could jack the truck up, place the dolly under the tires (without vehicle weight on it) then lower the truck ever so carefully onto your dolly, remove the outer spindle nut and pull the duals straight off the spindle. That would save you a LOT of time and effort between unbolting, removing, rebolting, aligning, etc. No dragging anything over the threads. Just like the Army motorpool guys used to do...
Two of those Car mover dolly trays they sell for $40 or so each at Harbor freight would do (one under each wheel) if you wern't handy with lumber or metal fabrication, and you could re-use them for moving another project around when they are sitting around, or buy 4 and move a jeep project out of the way.
V/R W. Winget
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Livonia, MI
1 - The MILITARY is who speced the outer seal and GREASE hubs, this was to keep water from getting into the rear chunk area for amphibious operations, the 5t axles ARE wet hub and were used by the civi world for medium to heavy use (cranes, gradealls, drills, ect.) for many years.
You can go back to wet hubs, to do so install NEW ware rings, NEW axle/hub seals, NOT NOS (they tend to be dry and not as flexible), once you change back to wet hubs, you WILL find the the rear hubs WILL run at least 20 deg. COOLER, the reason for this is grease will hold the heat while the hub, and axle housing, act as a heat sink, sucking out the heat from the oil.

Before any of you "experts" call the above BS, take a look in some OLD "Motor Truck Repair Manuals" like #10, this is where I got all the rear ratios, these manuals go into the repair/rebuilding of these axles, also we put this to the test when we RESTORED the restored m62.

2 - This IS 110% FALSE, 99.9% of heavy civi trucks ARE wet hub, The LO calls for grease because of amphibious operations, NOT for the well being of the bearing in everyday operation, as stated above the bearings run hotter in a grease hub. About ALL the NEW front wheel drive trucks (except most military trucks) ARE wet hub also, even some MVs are.

When doing a R/R of a rear wet hub, you pack the hub bearings lightly just so the bearing is lubed till the hub fills with oil. The proper filling sequence for filling a wet hub rear, is to bring the oil level up to the fill plug, take the truck out and do some figure 8s (this fills the hub), bring the truck back and top off the oil level, on front wheel drive wet hubs, there is a hub port like some trailers have that you fill through.
M939a2 rear axle hubs are oil lubed.
 
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