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5 ton rpm

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,409
2,503
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
Almost every truck that is now in public hands needs the rubber changed first thing
Take off the step too it's only four bolts you won't be sorry.
Most every pump out there needs to be taken to the right man and he will do wonders. Allways have them add 10lb to the rail side and keep the rpm at 2100. These P/T like use not sitting. They will go stale.
Replace you rubber and if the problem does not clear then you might be looking for the man. Use fuel lube allways and raise ctain 4 points.

Also if you have power problems you need a rebuild for shure. Hit peddel and slow to respond but seems to do the job. No well a good running pump and you feel the differance. Trust me I know.
 
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crasheej

Member
503
5
18
Location
Hermitage,MO
If it got any hoses in fuel system before the filter check to see if they have any cracks . My 816 wouldn't start, went to checking the lines found dry rot had gotten there. Replaced all the hoses end of the stsrt problems.
 

bevanet

Member
112
0
16
Location
Arizona
I finally had some time to play with this truck. We put some pressure in the right tank but I didn't see a leak at first. I didn't have time to remove the tool box, so I opened the line at the injector pump. Then I had my son pressurize the tank again. Once fuel started coming out the line I screwed it on quick. The truck then started and ran really good. I took it for a spin and had no surging or idling problems like before. The engine looks to be new. The paint on it is fresh and the coolant hoses are new. After all this I looked at the lines going into the tank selector valve. There was some wetness. Someday I'll take off the tool box and fix the leak. If anyone has problems starting one of these, opening the IP connection and using pressure to push fuel through seems like a quick way to get them started. I hadn't had a chance to try the dump before, but it all works quite well. Here is a pic.
 

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OPCOM

Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,657
27
48
Location
Dallas, Texas
my truck did as yours. The inside of the pump was chewed up by grit of some kind. it runs perfect now.
 

R Racing

Active member
2,767
16
38
Location
St. Leonard, MD
Changed out my line from the filter to my IP on my M813 today. I can't believe the difference it made. It got rid of the lag in the throttle. And the high idle and surging, and started up so much faster !!! I would add that the fitting that the hose went to was not very tight ( its a 90 ) when I got it tight it was pointing upward and the hose would interfer with the clutch. So I may have to get a #10 90 degree fitting to move the hose out of the way.
 

crasheej

Member
503
5
18
Location
Hermitage,MO
Go to the 90 and loosen the nut on the fitting at the filter and point it as close to the frame and the fitting will be in the right direction. And the clutch will stop hitting the hose.
 

bevanet

Member
112
0
16
Location
Arizona
I finally (after 6.5 years) got to this project. I removed the tool box. It has a fuel can holder which adds 4 rusty bolts that need removed. I also removed the two bolts holding the value to the floor so it could drop down and be easier to work on. As mentioned above, the main fuel lines are 1/2" and the return lines are 3/8". Actually 9/16" would have fit better, but NAPA didn't have that size. 5/8" was too large. The existing hoses were pressure crimped on the ends, but I was able to separate them from the metal barb with a pair of side cutters. I then slid the new hoses on and used hose clamps. After priming both tanks with air pressure, the truck started and runs great! Thanks for the advice!
 
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