I suggest doing your homework BEFORE starting your conversion. Frame widths are a standard 34" but with tape measure and clip board in hand, take LOTS and LOTS of measurements. Check little details like which side your t-case drive flanges are on in relation to the input flanges on the axles. Seems some are on opposite sides and that can certainly throw a kink into driveline alignment. Time for 5 ton t-case too?
When I put 5 ton axles under the baby HEMTT I used everything; perches, springs, axles from the 5 ton to accomodate the extra cab weight in the front and the crane weight in the rear.
You may need to make new plates to go between spring and axle to keep the correct driveline angle. If you keep the deuce springs for a smoother(?) ride, the new custom intermediate plates will assure the adaption.
If you're going to 4X4 then just repeat the process for the rear.
If you're gonna keep it 6X6 then make sure of the rear axle to rear axle center dimension. The 1600R20s are 52" dia. so you need about 55" center to center (half of 52" plus half of 52" plus 3" clearance) to make sure you don't get anything jammed between the tires. I know, I know; the treads go the opposite directions at their closest point-- self-cleaning, blah, blah, blah-- but trust me, if it's humanly possible to get a rock or tree limb caught in there it'll be when you're; a. four states away from home, b. about as far as you can get from a paved road and help, c. just when you're trying to impress your sweetie and/or friends.
Worst case; you have to change out the entire rear bogie set-up which can be enough of a pain to make you swear off anything but dead stock from here on out.
After these cheery words of encouragement the only thing left to say is; good luck and happy wrenching.
P.S. I have the number for MilVehAnon on speed dial if you need it.