6.2 engine swap minimum inspection list

[bumble900]

After 6 years I am finally replacing my blown 6.2 with another. The donor engine was running when removed but before I do the swap I wanted to make sure I am checking/replacing the minimum on the new engine. This has been driving me crazy as I have gone from just throw the new engine in to looking into a complete rebuild with a turbo or even a P400 swap. I am in the Louisville, KY area and would love any advice on this job.

My minimum to do list so far is:

• Harmonic balancer
• Rear main seal

Thanks
Mike


April 6, 2015 the last time it rolled down the road

 

[Skinny]

New lift pump ,gasket the entire engine, and put new upgraded glow plugs.

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[Sharecropper]

After 6 years I am finally replacing my blown 6.2 with another. The donor engine was running when removed but before I do the swap I wanted to make sure I am checking/replacing the minimum on the new engine. This has been driving me crazy as I have gone from just throw the new engine in to looking into a complete rebuild with a turbo or even a P400 swap. I am in the Louisville, KY area and would love any advice on this job.

My minimum to do list so far is:

• Harmonic balancer
• Rear main seal

Thanks
Mike

My suggestion is to first answer the question, will the project dictate the budget, or will the budget dictate the project? Stop for a moment and think about this. To simply "throw the new engine in" will be the fastest and most economical route, while a "complete rebuild with a turbo" will entail a substantial money outlay. Only you can answer the question. A "complete rebuild with a turbo" could possibly be a Pandora's box - once you open up the engine, you could discover that it has main bearing cracks or other issues which render it useless for rebuilding. From my experience, the vast majority of 35-year-old 6.2 diesels have issues which need attention when rebuilding, that is, if the engine can be rebuilt. Also, the 6.2 diesel engine was never designed to handle the additional stress induced by the higher pressures of a turbo. As far as a P400 swap, I don't believe there is such a thing. I probably have the last P400 on the planet. The odds of finding a used P400 are extremely remote, and I haven't seen a new P400 for sale in over 5 years, and then it was over $12,000.

I am in Paris KY, just about 100 miles from you. I will be happy to help you in any way, just let me know.

Hope this helps.

 

[bumble900]

My suggestion is to first answer the question, will the project dictate the budget, or will the budget dictate the project? Stop for a moment and think about this. To simply "throw the new engine in" will be the fastest and most economical route, while a "complete rebuild with a turbo" will entail a substantial money outlay. Only you can answer the question. A "complete rebuild with a turbo" could possibly be a Pandora's box - once you open up the engine, you could discover that it has main bearing cracks or other issues which render it useless for rebuilding. From my experience, the vast majority of 35-year-old 6.2 diesels have issues which need attention when rebuilding, that is, if the engine can be rebuilt. Also, the 6.2 diesel engine was never designed to handle the additional stress induced by the higher pressures of a turbo. As far as a P400 swap, I don't believe there is such a thing. I probably have the last P400 on the planet. The odds of finding a used P400 are extremely remote, and I haven't seen a new P400 for sale in over 5 years, and then it was over $12,000.

I am in Paris KY, just about 100 miles from you. I will be happy to help you in any way, just let me know.

Hope this helps.

Sharecropper

Thanks for the reply you have some excellent points. First let me say the P400 swap in your 1028 is amazing and not a viable option for me since you have the last one and the cost associated is way over my budget of 5K for the repairs. I don't want to swap in a gasser but I am not opposed to a 6.5 with a turbo. I will not be rock crawling or doing any crazy offloading so the 6.2 would be fine with me and if i could get a few more HP out of the engine with opening up the IP or adding headers that would be good. I am also wanting to be able to drive on the highway so I'd like to swap the transmission for a 700R4 but as of now I haven't located the required bracket or TV cable.

The last problem is my schedule and available free time for this job. I am gone with work for long stretches of days and when I get home my 5 year old daughter takes up most of what ever free time is left. So I would be hiring out the engine repairs but I would like to do the swap myself.

Since I have sent aside the cash for this job I have been driving my self crazy on the best way to get it done. In the end I just want to get it driving again but feel like I have a good opportunity to really check over the "new" engine and make all the required upgrades... or put in a 6.5

I sincerely appreciate your offer for help down the road in Paris and I'll send you a PM with my phone number if you have some free time to talk over this job.

 

[cucvrus]

Do you have any knowledge of the history of the engine you plan on installing? How long has it sat with acidic coolant in it. I found it best if the engine is on the floor and not in your truck is to start and remove everything down to the short block. I would send the heads out and have them checked and machined. I would replace every gasket that you can and the water and fuel pump. Do it right the first time. I would also get the injection pump rebuilt regardless of how good you think it is. That is about $400. so all in all if you do the work and get everything done correctly. You should have the cost of the replacement engine plus $1500 + or - added to that to make sure you have a great engine that you can run for years. That is providing you do the labor yourself. Good Luck. I don't know what updated glow plugs are but I have owned CUCV's over 25 years and always used the A C Delco 13G and the stock system. When it breaks and anything will. I just fix the issue and drive on. Makes it easier to maintain if you keep it stock.

 

[Skinny]

I forget exactly but the updated plugs are ACG60s I think. They are the same as the factory plug but self limiting which eliminated swelling. They do require crimping a new terminal on the wire as the spade is slightly wider.

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[nyoffroad]

I would at minimum drop the pan and look inside check for cracks and 'junk', while in there a set of bearings wouldn't hurt. At this point you might as well pull the heads and have them sent out (it needs head gaskets anyway) so now cut the ridge (if any) and hone the cylinders and install new rings. All this can be done in a day or two minus the head work and IP. But whatever you do make sure all belts and hoses are new even if you do nothing else!

 

[LT67]

I would remove the valve covers and oil pan beforehand to inspect the block. If it's good to go, reseal with new gaskets and a rear main seal. Replace all of the freeze plugs. Get a new lift pump and make sure it's Delphi #CHFP906. THAT IS THE ONLY PART # THAT WILL WORK. Delphi #MF0030 will NOT work. Might be a good idea to do a leakdown test as well....