6.2 liter engine flywheel hitting back of engine block.

[Pacman1981]

Hi, new to the site which looks very helpful for cucv owners. Have a 1984 m1009, 6.2 liter. Used to drive it to work everyday until one day I was on my way home and a terrible knocking sound appears and I pulled over and shut it off. Towed it home with the help of a friend thinking the worst. Finally found where it's coming from. The counter weight on flywheel is hitting back of engine block. Flywheel was not loose at all and is not cracked any where. Any thoughts? Anyone come across this same problem?

 

[cucvrus]

Welcome. Have you removed the flywheel/flexplate?

 

[86m1028]

Crank end play ???

 

[cucvrus]

That would be extreme.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Well if the flex plate is straight, uncracked, and bolted tight, it really doesn't leave room for much else. Worse case scenario the crank broke because the Harmonic balancer is bad

 

[Pacman1981]

I've done alot since my last post. Pulled the engine, found cap loose on #1 piston rod and rod bearing chewed up in the bottom of oil pan. I also have little side to side play on the rest of the rods on the crank. Should they be that noticeable moving side to side like that??

 

[cucvrus]

A little side play? Where both rods are connected to the crank shaft?

 

[Pacman1981]

Yes sir, I can move them easily side to side on the crank

 

[cucvrus]

A little is normal. But what about this rod bearing and cap laying in the oil pan. What happened to cause this?

 

[Pacman1981]

The nuts are backed off almost all the way and cap is hanging loosely on rod. The rod bearing got caught between rod and counter weight on the crank and chewed it up

 

[cucvrus]

Something caused that. The nuts did not decide one day to just come loose. Was someone inside the engine working on it? I have run the be Jesus out of 6.2 diesel engines in CUCV's and never had one come apart. I only ever had 1 semi wear out and it is still running but it ate enough dirt to fill a dump truck and it smokes and eats oil. Still runs and pushes snow. just think that engine was messed with that you have. Do you know the history of it?

 

[Pacman1981]

I agree, I don't know any history, but I feel that some one was working on it and didn't tighten them. You think the rod bearing wedging it's self against the crank could of caused any movement of the crank, it's hard for me to see that happening but. I have no oil leaking at the front or rear of engine either. I know the tapping sound got louder when I took the dust cover off. Maybe the shavings are from the starter not being shimmed correctly, which I fixed when I first got it.....the weight on the flywheel is scraped up...but I can't tell where it could of hit on the engine to be honest....so maybe this rod problem is what I'm hearing after all.....

 

[cucvrus]

I would say that is the case. The flywheel theory sounded a bit strange to me. I never seen one just develop that much end play in a moment. Are you going to just change the engine? That would be the best thing at this point. Overhauls of this type can be costly. I am sure you can find a descent engine for a lot less then the cost of an overhaul. Good Luck. Keep posting. Sorry for your misfortune.

 

[Bobthebuilder]

Alright looks like I'm on the right thread. My my flywheel appears to be bent as well! Wobbles and grinds against the starter. Initially thought I didn't install starter correctly since I couldn't be underneath and start it at the same time. Found an extra set of hands and when it turns over the flywheel wobbles like its drunk. How much of a pain am I about to endure removing/replacing the flywheel? I've tried digging through the TMs but haven't found anything. Looks like part of the exhaust has to come off to remove the cover. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Guess when govplanet says won't start...that's very open to interpretation.

 

[cucvrus]

You are not into any major project. The flex-plate/flywheel is a $50. item and you can do it in 1 afternoon. I would recommend a flat smooth surface or a sheet of plywood to lay on and jack the transmission back and forth. I remove the flywheel cover by removing the transmission cooler lines. I have my new exhaust tucked up tight on my Terminus M1009. The stock pipes did allow enough roof to get the cover off. But the left pipe always hung lower then the front leaf springs and tended to hit things on the trails I was on. Disconnect both batteries at all 4 points. You will need 4- 3/8" X 4 hex head grade 8 bolts. Grade 5 may work also. Just get under there and jack the truck up high enough that the front suspension is just hanging that the tires touch the ground. Support the truck in that position up front is best to keep your work area clear. Now get the transmission bell bolts to engine block out. After the flywheel cover is removed. manually turn the flywheel and remove the 6 flex-plate/flywheel to torque converter bolts. bump the torque converter back against the transmission. Remove the starter and the starter heat shield. Pull the transmission dip stick tube from the top of the transmission. Just wire tie or wire it in place. Good time to replace the dipstick tube gasket/grommet. Install the 4 grade 8 bolts at 9 o'clock 11 o'clock 1 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Close enough if I am off the clock. Just get 4 long bolts up there. Remove the front drive shaft and the rear drive shaft as well. Un-plug the 1 wire on the drivers side kick down and remove the shift linkage bell crank. Remove the cotter pin on the transfer case shift lever. Support the transmission assembly under the cross member. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the transmission cross member to the frame flanges. Double check I think I covered everything. Slide the complete assembly rearward and you will be able to access the 6 bolts that hold the flex-plate / flywheel onto the crank shaft. I think 11/16". Remove them and replace the flex-plate/ flywheel. Torque to spec. And reverse for reassembly. I would change the out put seal on the transfer case and clean and lube all the shift linkage on the transfer case and the bell crank on the transmission linkage. If you need any more information just ask. I have done this several times and it is a real time saver and can be done with 1 person in an afternoon. Very little transmission fluid is lost and it gives you the opportunity to clean check a few things out. I have seen the trucks with 1 bell bolt in place. So it is worth the effort to do a good job. As always Good Luck and have a great day. I hope you find this post useful.

 

[JUNKYARDJOHN]

Alright looks like I'm on the right thread. My my flywheel appears to be bent as well! Wobbles and grinds against the starter. Initially thought I didn't install starter correctly since I couldn't be underneath and start it at the same time. Found an extra set of hands and when it turns over the flywheel wobbles like its drunk. How much of a pain am I about to endure removing/replacing the flywheel? I've tried digging through the TMs but haven't found anything. Looks like part of the exhaust has to come off to remove the cover. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Guess when govplanet says won't start...that's very open to interpretation.

Hi bob.. (OR Pacman... whoever??) I'm in southern Kentucky. Believe it or not.... it's your lucky day. P.M. (private message) me for my phone number & we'll get together & solve all of these problems for you. I just happen to have all of the parts you need (including complete running motors) & am very willing to help out a deserving individual with extra everything in the way of 6.2 parts & the benefit of years of experience & free advice. It's not rocket sience & doesn't have to be at all confusing. ( just don't expect me to understand that 12volt to 24volt back to 12 volt electrical system. it's my kryptonite) karma again . John