6.2 Oil Pan Gasket.

[Recovry4x4]

So,maybe 4 years ago I had to replace an oil pump on my CUCV. When I installed the pan, I did what I've always done with small blocks. Little RTV here, a little there with the factory gaskets. Darned thing leaked like crazy. Fast forward to now. Trans, bellhousing and flywheel are out so I figure I'll redo the oil pan. My gut tells me to forget a gasket set and just use a generous amount of The Right Stuff from Permatex. Looking for opinions on that approach. Tired of all the leaks. Thanks.

 

[Mullaney]

So,maybe 4 years ago I had to replace an oil pump on my CUCV. When I installed the pan, I did what I've always done with small blocks. Little RTV here, a little there with the factory gaskets. Darned thing leaked like crazy. Fast forward to now. Trans, bellhousing and flywheel are out so I figure I'll redo the oil pan. My gut tells me to forget a gasket set and just use a generous amount of The Right Stuff from Permatex. Looking for opinions on that approach. Tired of all the leaks. Thanks.

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Most of the time the lip of the pan gets bent. During a new gasket install, or during the factory install or some other way. If you just planned on several days for the job and slate one day for just the pan - it will work like it should.

There will be dimples around every hole in the pan rail. Tap them back out flat.
Bends around the pan rail happen too. Get a straight edge and lay it across the rails left to right and front to back. Bend accordingly until it is right. When you put the new gasket on it, I would almost bet you can be leak free. Just be sure to tighten the bolts slowly and gently and circle around the pan several times.

 

[WWRD99]

So,maybe 4 years ago I had to replace an oil pump on my CUCV. When I installed the pan, I did what I've always done with small blocks. Little RTV here, a little there with the factory gaskets. Darned thing leaked like crazy. Fast forward to now. Trans, bellhousing and flywheel are out so I figure I'll redo the oil pan. My gut tells me to forget a gasket set and just use a generous amount of The Right Stuff from Permatex. Looking for opinions on that approach. Tired of all the leaks. Thanks.

Being a tech for decades I've seen a massive shift in the use of gaskets...most engines today only have valve cover gaskets and head gaskets...the rest is glued together...the big difference is the parts are machined aluminum and are very straight and thick...the steel pan will be the weak point if you decide to skip the gasket and use the maker...I think if I did that I'd want some sort of steel or other material going all the way around the pan to press the pan flat and hold it tight where the bolts go through it...I'm not sure if an aluminum pan or thick steel pan is out there already...to get it right and if you have the time to do it yourself, find a shop that has a plasma cutting table and have a support made...the ultra grey is what you should use...it is what is used all over the auto industry now...holds so good you'd need to hammer the pan off...some manufacturers have a special tool like a wedge the you hit with a hammer to get things apart so I know it would hold...both of my trucks don't leak right now but if I ever take the pan off I'll definitely be looking at not using a gasket.

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[cucvrus]

On these old CUCV's I use a Felpro gasket and Permatex the Right Stuff. I put a big bead at both front bends and both rear upper main cap corners of the pan. I put it up in place while the Right Stuff is wet and quickly get all the bolts in place. I use a short 1/4" ratchet and snug them all up cross pattern. The front ones in the aluminum timing housing are tricky but can be done after the few front flat ones are snugged up a bit. Go around once more and snig them all up. Make sure the surface is clean and do not over tighten the bolts. No air ratchet to tighten them. Good Luck. I hope that helps out. Gasket and The Right Stuff worked for me every time here.

 

[gringeltaube]

..... forget a gasket set and just use a generous amount of The Right Stuff from Permatex.

Exactly, that! (Oh, and give your pan a good paint, because now it will rust... )

Each- and every HMMWV 6.5L engine (of the dozens I have disassembled) had the valve covers and oil pan "glued" in place, and all bone-dry, there...!

 

[nyoffroad]

I also 'glue' them on but I also just snug them up and wait a few hours or a day and then give the bolts another 1/4 turn to tighten.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Sage advice from all of you, thanks. I'll have to have a look-see at the pan. I'm aware of the dimpling, this was always an issue with small blocks. No need to rush on this one.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Go around once more and snig them all up.

This is the big secret, here. The first time around, you have to snug them up. But the second time, you have to snig them up.

 

[cucvrus]

In the memory of King in the 1986 movie Platoon

• CUCVRUS is writing a letter to his girlfriend
  
  MarcusOReallyus : It ain't D-E-R-E, it's D-E-A-R. And "Sarah" ain't got no two R's, CUCVRUS. Damn, you dumb!
  CUCVRUS: It don't make no difference. She know what I mean. She don't read too good nohow.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]