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6.5 Injection Pump Replacement w Pics

cookeemann

Member
89
22
8
Location
Woodbury, GA
I read the TM, but couldn't find pics for this procedure on 'net. Maybe this will help someone with their IP issue.
Truck wouldn't start/ no fuel to injectors. Drained tank, clean fuel in, pressure fuel into and out of filter housing, had fuel at rubber return hose on IP, both solenoids click, throttle was stuck and was hard to press accel pedal when picked up at auction. Bad IP.
Removed intake. Removed oil filler tube to access IP mount bolts inside vs removing timing cover. Removed glow plugs.
Marked/bagged everything to keep it simple.
With intake removed you can access the pump. I covered intake ports, numbered fuel lines. Disco lines at all injectors.
Scribed a line on engine to match the timing mark on the pump. This is critical for pump timing.
 

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cookeemann

Member
89
22
8
Location
Woodbury, GA
Used a "crows foot" on the end of a long extension to access hard to reach IP fuel line b-nuts. From NAPA-about $10.......5/8 I think.
Looking through the oil filler tube opening you will see the three IP mount bolts and two other holes. Round one, not used. Oval one is for your pump pin. Ensure the pump pin goes only in the oval one. Seems counterintuitive I know.
Stuff rags into cavity in case a bolt falls off as you remove it.
 

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cookeemann

Member
89
22
8
Location
Woodbury, GA
Carefully remove IP bolts. Engine will have to be rotated via harmonic balancer to access each bolt.
Next remove the two bottom pump hardware and top one last. It will be easier to manage.
Remove pump, center spring loaded shaft will come out with pump.
Now is a good time to clean the pan valley. Mine is a USMC M1123 with Melton engine and has no drain in back of the valley....I looked.
 

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cookeemann

Member
89
22
8
Location
Woodbury, GA
With pump removed you can see the three threaded bolt holes and the drive pin (that MUST go back in the oval hole)
Note the rust on the pump from sitting in water for who knows how long....no valley drain.
My pump needed a new housing as well as a rebuild. Less than $900.
Reinstallation (sorry no photos) reverse of removal. Align pin in oval hole, loosely mount with three external pump bolts (nuts).
Align pump mark with corresponding mark made on engine during removal.
Get all three internal bolts snugged down one at a time, but not torqued (will require rotating engine to access each one). Will allow easier alignment of all three. Once all three are installed and snug, torque to final spec.
Attach remaining lines, connections, intake etc.
Will take some cranking with lines at injectors disconnected to bleed out air.
Hope this helps.
OOORAHHH!
 

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Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,558
113
Location
East Tennessee
And having the correct type wrench will make removing the three bolts in valley much easier...
or using three feet of extensions from the cab.
EDIT///these work well when you don't already have the top half of engine removed.

1633218834121.png
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I won mine last May and my EUC took 70+ days. That's with me emailing them at 60 and 65 days. SF97 is a little faster.
Congrats on your truck!
Won? Hahaha, really a loose term I guess to make a person feel better about paying more than the next guy. I got mine the same way and I’m very happy with it but I will never call it a Win. 50 wings for the price of 25 is a Win! Wait times sucks and if I was doing it again I wouldn’t buy anything but oil and filters… I could’ve saved some money by seeing what I actually need vs what I think I need from a few pics. May 19th WON lol,August 6th release! Buy the title with it.
 
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