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6.5 Turbo Diesel w/ crate. Iron planet purchase.

daveiaff

Member
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Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Rolled the dice on this one, need the cross over manifold. Going to try to start in crate. Questions??? Will starter bolt up without bell housing?, I going to remove valve covers check that each valve is moving, then maybe a bleed down test if I can get right gauges. Then a compression test while cranking. I'll test glow plugs and mock up a harness to fire them up for a few seconds. Thoughts or comments welcomed. Thanks. IMG_4930.jpg
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
mid- michigan
Rolled the dice on this one, need the cross over manifold. Going to try to start in crate. Questions??? Will starter bolt up without bell housing?, I going to remove valve covers check that each valve is moving, then maybe a bleed down test if I can get right gauges. Then a compression test while cranking. I'll test glow plugs and mock up a harness to fire them up for a few seconds. Thoughts or comments welcomed. Thanks. View attachment 762159
I would pull the glow plugs and check the valves using a breaker bar before trying to fire it up. Maybe put some lube in the cylinders.
 

NDT

Well-known member
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Camp Wood/LC, TX
What is the condition code? Looks like an "F". Looks like a GM too. Remember, nobody spent 12 hours to R&R that just for shiggles.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Location
Cincy Ohio
We've put starters on 6.2s in the crate with slight modifications to the rear can mount. I would imagine that motor would work too.
 

daveiaff

Member
63
11
8
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
I just had a 6.5 NA through a machine shop, .20 bore and had to get new heads, so prepared for worst case scenario. Hoping for best, with motor in crate I can take my time and wheel out of the way when bored with it.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Brentwood, Calif
I just had a 6.5 NA through a machine shop, .20 bore and had to get new heads, so prepared for worst case scenario. Hoping for best, with motor in crate I can take my time and wheel out of the way when bored with it.

Hope you didn’t pay much, if anything for it. You have less the 1% chance of that motor being any good.
there are plenty of take out turbo engines out on the market for “AFAIC” quite cheap.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
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Location
Giddings, Texas
You will need to move the rear engine mount back a few inches to allow a starter motor to fit.

Basically, unbolt the rear cross bar from the engine and the can. The engine will sit there just fine without the rear support. Slide the cross bar back until it wants to drop off the rack it is sitting on. That is how far back it needs to be. I have used 2 x 2 angle iron and I have also used 2 inch flat strap to bolt it back in depending on what I had sitting around. Pipe can be cut for the engine bolts to space it out or several 1/2 inch nuts stacked on the longer bolts you will have to buy work as well.


Make sure you install the starter support bracket before you try anything with a starter. You will also need to loop the oil cooler ports or oil will fly an amazingly far distance across your work area.
 
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