KaiserM109
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- SE Aurora, CO
My ’66 Kaiser Jeep deuce is safely in storage and waiting on papers. I have a problem with engine oil that I need to get sorted out. In general I am real happy with my purchase, even if this issue gets deep.
Before I go into the oil problem, just a quick status report. The missing blackout curtain on the left front turned out to be in the frame of the back left. There is minor damage to the left front fender and a slight bend to the left end of the bumper. The floor in the back in not warped, as was speculated from one of the pictures, the track that holds the weather strip is badly bent. The original planking must be in bad shape because 5/8” plywood has been screwed down over it. All 24 volt lights work, except the right rear running light. I haven’t figured out how to hook up the 115 volt circuit, except I do know there are no fuses in the fuse box. The exhaust that was thought to be missing comes out on the right side between the axles. I had to add a universal window crank (a vice grip) on the passenger door. All glass is 100%, even the glass in the van. There is almost no rust, even on the underside of the cab. Something is missing on the right panel that holds the right headlight and electric horn because it shakes. The air pressure buzzer works, after I hooked it back up, but neither the electric or air horns work. The seats are in excellent condition (if that is how you can characterize army canvas cushions). It has manual steering which has to change! My shoulders were sore for almost a week.
In summary, it is better than I expected. I knew going in that it was built sometime from ’65 to ’70. It is the best condition 41 year old truck I have ever crawled under!
Here’s how the oil problem goes: I got rushed in the sales yard at Ft. Riley because I had to modify the pintle hook to match the pintle eye that I was going to use to pull my ‘69 Bronco home. I checked the engine oil in the yard and radiator fluid before starting it. Both were okay. I performed a brake test twice in the yard and slid all wheels in the gravel with half a pedal of travel. I got off post and found a space in a shopping center and crawled under it to check all fluids. Everything was good and there was nothing out of the ordinary, in particular no visible oil leaks after 15 mi. of driving.
I drove 50 mi. and felt everything was good, so I decided it was time to pull the drive shaft out of the Bronco so that I wasn’t spinning the transfer case on it. I did a down on the knees inspection of the deuce and didn’t see any problem. The oil level on the dip stick was normal.
I drove the rest of the 485 mi. with no incidents, no unusual noises, etc. I pulled up in front of my house at 9:00 AM and proceeded to unhook the Bronco. The deuce was spilling enough oil from the bell housing to leave an 8” puddle if a couple of minutes. I checked the oil level in the engine according to the instructions on the stick and it was 2 qt. HIGH! I checked the level in the transmission to see if it was contributing to the mess, but it was still about ¼ inch below the inspection port.
I put the truck into storage (about 20 miles of driving) and began searching this web sight for info about related matters and focused attention on the Fuel Density Compensator (FDC). During the drive I paid attention to how the clutch felt. It will fully engage, but if you ‘drop’ the clutch it sort of ‘slides’ into fully engagement. That worries me that the disk might be contaminated with oil.
I stopped by the truck yesterday on my way to meet the family for dinner out and took pictures of the FDC which is NOT bypassed. I went back to the truck today and began looking it over. We started the engine and let it run for 5 minutes; it sounded good, blew a little gray smoke. We shut it off and checked the oil level: 2 qt. LOW! All oil checks were done on level ground, so that’s not a factor.
I wiped the oil off to determine where it could be coming from. The back of the oil pan is wet and so is the bottom of the bell housing. I opened up the inspection port and found that the back of the pressure plate is dry and the flywheel seems dry, but the throwout bearing is wet and dripping as is the front of the transmission. In our haste, though, we didn’t check the transmission level again because we were distracted by the change in the dipstick level.
I checked the bolts on the oil pan for tightness, but couldn’t move them tighter with about 30# of torque. I didn’t mess with that any further because it doesn’t look like the problem. The only other possible source appears to be the clutch housing.
You can see in the picture that there are 2 threaded holes on the bottom of the clutch housing for a plug to go into. One hole is centered and goes all the way through and the flywheel is right there. The other is off to the right a little and bottoms out. The plug was in the second hole when I got the truck. We have been speculating why the second hole and we have decided that it is simply a place to keep the plug when you don’t want it in the main hole.
If anyone knows about this plug, I would sure like to hear about it.
Speculation:
The 2 reasons that we can see for driving w/o the plug in the main hole would be if you just forded water and want to make sure the clutch is dry. The other reason might be if there is oil in the housing and you don’t want it to build up. We are speculating that someone in servicing the truck saw the oil leak and left the plug out for that reason. The oil build up inside the housing indicates that it has been going on for a while. See the picture of the inspection plate.
About the plus or minus 2 quarts, we are speculating that there may be a problem with the FDC leaking into the crankcase. I found out on my odyssey from Ft. Riley that diesel fuel foams up easily. My thought is that if I have a serious amount of diesel in the oil it might foam. Does that sound plausible to anyone?
Here are pictures of the bottom side of the Green Pig:
Before I go into the oil problem, just a quick status report. The missing blackout curtain on the left front turned out to be in the frame of the back left. There is minor damage to the left front fender and a slight bend to the left end of the bumper. The floor in the back in not warped, as was speculated from one of the pictures, the track that holds the weather strip is badly bent. The original planking must be in bad shape because 5/8” plywood has been screwed down over it. All 24 volt lights work, except the right rear running light. I haven’t figured out how to hook up the 115 volt circuit, except I do know there are no fuses in the fuse box. The exhaust that was thought to be missing comes out on the right side between the axles. I had to add a universal window crank (a vice grip) on the passenger door. All glass is 100%, even the glass in the van. There is almost no rust, even on the underside of the cab. Something is missing on the right panel that holds the right headlight and electric horn because it shakes. The air pressure buzzer works, after I hooked it back up, but neither the electric or air horns work. The seats are in excellent condition (if that is how you can characterize army canvas cushions). It has manual steering which has to change! My shoulders were sore for almost a week.
In summary, it is better than I expected. I knew going in that it was built sometime from ’65 to ’70. It is the best condition 41 year old truck I have ever crawled under!
Here’s how the oil problem goes: I got rushed in the sales yard at Ft. Riley because I had to modify the pintle hook to match the pintle eye that I was going to use to pull my ‘69 Bronco home. I checked the engine oil in the yard and radiator fluid before starting it. Both were okay. I performed a brake test twice in the yard and slid all wheels in the gravel with half a pedal of travel. I got off post and found a space in a shopping center and crawled under it to check all fluids. Everything was good and there was nothing out of the ordinary, in particular no visible oil leaks after 15 mi. of driving.
I drove 50 mi. and felt everything was good, so I decided it was time to pull the drive shaft out of the Bronco so that I wasn’t spinning the transfer case on it. I did a down on the knees inspection of the deuce and didn’t see any problem. The oil level on the dip stick was normal.
I drove the rest of the 485 mi. with no incidents, no unusual noises, etc. I pulled up in front of my house at 9:00 AM and proceeded to unhook the Bronco. The deuce was spilling enough oil from the bell housing to leave an 8” puddle if a couple of minutes. I checked the oil level in the engine according to the instructions on the stick and it was 2 qt. HIGH! I checked the level in the transmission to see if it was contributing to the mess, but it was still about ¼ inch below the inspection port.
I put the truck into storage (about 20 miles of driving) and began searching this web sight for info about related matters and focused attention on the Fuel Density Compensator (FDC). During the drive I paid attention to how the clutch felt. It will fully engage, but if you ‘drop’ the clutch it sort of ‘slides’ into fully engagement. That worries me that the disk might be contaminated with oil.
I stopped by the truck yesterday on my way to meet the family for dinner out and took pictures of the FDC which is NOT bypassed. I went back to the truck today and began looking it over. We started the engine and let it run for 5 minutes; it sounded good, blew a little gray smoke. We shut it off and checked the oil level: 2 qt. LOW! All oil checks were done on level ground, so that’s not a factor.
I wiped the oil off to determine where it could be coming from. The back of the oil pan is wet and so is the bottom of the bell housing. I opened up the inspection port and found that the back of the pressure plate is dry and the flywheel seems dry, but the throwout bearing is wet and dripping as is the front of the transmission. In our haste, though, we didn’t check the transmission level again because we were distracted by the change in the dipstick level.
I checked the bolts on the oil pan for tightness, but couldn’t move them tighter with about 30# of torque. I didn’t mess with that any further because it doesn’t look like the problem. The only other possible source appears to be the clutch housing.
You can see in the picture that there are 2 threaded holes on the bottom of the clutch housing for a plug to go into. One hole is centered and goes all the way through and the flywheel is right there. The other is off to the right a little and bottoms out. The plug was in the second hole when I got the truck. We have been speculating why the second hole and we have decided that it is simply a place to keep the plug when you don’t want it in the main hole.
If anyone knows about this plug, I would sure like to hear about it.
Speculation:
The 2 reasons that we can see for driving w/o the plug in the main hole would be if you just forded water and want to make sure the clutch is dry. The other reason might be if there is oil in the housing and you don’t want it to build up. We are speculating that someone in servicing the truck saw the oil leak and left the plug out for that reason. The oil build up inside the housing indicates that it has been going on for a while. See the picture of the inspection plate.
About the plus or minus 2 quarts, we are speculating that there may be a problem with the FDC leaking into the crankcase. I found out on my odyssey from Ft. Riley that diesel fuel foams up easily. My thought is that if I have a serious amount of diesel in the oil it might foam. Does that sound plausible to anyone?
Here are pictures of the bottom side of the Green Pig:
