• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

71 M35 Transmission help

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
221
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
you need to have the top off, this is all just a educated guess. if it doesn't have a winch, and you have the facilities to remove the trans, i think it is a toss up whether it is easier in the truck of out. it can be done in the truck but pulling the rear brng off the mainshaft may be a pain.

tom
 

Riktord

Member
78
1
6
Location
Dallas, TX
Quick question since it was mentioned mutltiple times in this thread. Why not start in second?

Older trucks I have driven have a low first like the deuce known as a crawler gear and are generally only used when pulling a load or when "ghost riding" to allow for constant movement, such as when loading bailed hay.

Anyways, just curious.
 
980
24
18
Location
Dover, New Hampshire
Quick question since it was mentioned mutltiple times in this thread. Why not start in second?

Older trucks I have driven have a low first like the deuce known as a crawler gear and are generally only used when pulling a load or when "ghost riding" to allow for constant movement, such as when loading bailed hay.

Anyways, just curious.
I used to start off in second, because it was 'convenient'.

Then I blew my trans doing just that.

Ever since then I have started off in 1st. After all, it is 1st.
And the deuce has a low t-case, if you need to start off lower than 1st.
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,129
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
Quick question since it was mentioned mutltiple times in this thread. Why not start in second?

Older trucks I have driven have a low first like the deuce known as a crawler gear and are generally only used when pulling a load or when "ghost riding" to allow for constant movement, such as when loading bailed hay.

Anyways, just curious.

Do a search-much space has been used in the discussion of this question.
 

Big Red Bull

New member
50
25
0
Location
Grandy, NC
OK Guy's, I pulled the top off today. Since I'm an engine guy and not a transmission guru I'm not sure what the problem is. I can't see anything wrong but then again I don't know what I'm looking at. I know absolutley NOTHING about trans!!! I can rebuild the engine all day long but when it comes to the trans I'm lost. All 3 forks are in good shape. I don't know 1st from 5th except the size of the gear. But how they work together with the top and bottom shaft I'm lost. I didn't see a snap-ring or a missing snap-ring. Consider me UH-DUH when it comes to this.

Brad:deadhorse:
 

wb1895

Member
876
17
18
Location
Lexington NC
You cant see the snap rings. As far as the gears go starting at the back of the transmission going forward the gears are:

1st / reverse

2nd gear

3rd gear

5th gear

4th gear

excluding 1st and reverse only one gear should move at a time. If you grab all the gears and they slide back and fourth then you have a bent/broken snap ring. if the gears all stay in place and only move on at a time, then I am at a loss as to your problem.

M35Tom is the best person to ask questions about the tranny. He is the one who walked me through fixing mine.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,195
320
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
Take a long mechanics magnet and stick down to the bottom of the case, see what you fish out
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
221
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
the only gear that ever moves is 1st and rev slider. it is the rear. look down on the three center gears, they should line up with the bottom gears and not move front to rear.

tom
 

Big Red Bull

New member
50
25
0
Location
Grandy, NC
Hey guys, So I still haven't gotten this problem fixed and I'm at a loss as to what to do. I've popped the top and everything looks good. Forks are clean and not bent, everything seems to be sliding as it should, no broken teeth. I have a spare transmission, with a cracked housing, for reference and everything in both seems to be the same. I can't find anyone in this area to work on the truck so I'm trying to do this myself. Again, I can tear an engine down and rebuild it no problem. However, when it comes to understanding how a transmission works the gears in my head just spin!!!!!!! I've heard there may be a busted snap-ring on 5th gear. If so where is it?. I'm really clueless on this. Many guys at the legion have given input but none have panned out yet. If ANYONE can explain this to me, a layman, please do. Thanks
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
221
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
put it in 2nd on level paved surface and let the clutch out real easy, does it try to move? put it in 3rd and release the clutch pretty hard. does it stall the engine or act like 2nd does.
 

Big Red Bull

New member
50
25
0
Location
Grandy, NC
Hey Tom, I've done that. I put it into every gear and it wants to move, except for 2nd gear. I put it in 2nd and it just does nothing, no noise, no anything. When I look at the spare trans and I move the slider to engage 2nd it sort of clicks into place. On the one in my truck it just slides in with no clicking. I reviewed the previous post with the transmission PDF. Could it be one of the keyways? there is no metal in the bottom though
 

Big Red Bull

New member
50
25
0
Location
Grandy, NC
I'm down to the point I would just like to buy another transmission!!!!! I can drive the truck on the road no problem, just go from 1st to 3rd easy. However, I don't want to take the truck off road this way, especially living here on the beach. Driving in that sand is tough on everything. I let air out and the truck moves over the sand fine but I'm straining the clutch by skipping 2nd
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
221
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
no, if you can stall the engine in 3rd, it cannot be the keys. it is very rare, but the dogs that engage 2nd must have worn and then broken off. if you remove the drive shaft to the transfer and remove the rear brng retainer and pull the brng off the rear of the main shaft ( top rear shaft ) you can remove that shaft assy with the trans in the truck. ( leaving rev slider in the case ) when you take the gears off the shaft, it will be obvious what is wrong.
 

Big Red Bull

New member
50
25
0
Location
Grandy, NC
Yeah, I was hoping this would be something stupidly simple because of the way it happened and all of the other gears working but I suppose thats not the case. The PDF in one of the previous repiles has pretty much all information about tearing down and putting back together. My main problem is I just don't understand transmissions enough. Inner and outer shafts, this slides here, that slides there, but no gears actually move. Just like the one's in my head, HA. And I have an engineering degree, not that that makes me any smarter but you would think I could grasp the concept. Its amazing how simple, yet complex, these things are
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,177
113
Location
NY
He can swap out the top output shaft(with everything on it) from his broken case transmission.

Just be sure to drain your oil first, and find all 14 bearing rollers.
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
221
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
m_101_1013.JPGm_101_1011.JPGm_101_1012.JPG

here is 2nd as you cannot really see this with the trans togeather. when you put it back togeather, beware that the syncro will go in backwards but will still not have 2nd, the offset part of the center hub goes to the rear. also use new 'snap ring' for 5th gear sleeve. it is not really a 'snap ring' but rather an eaton style lock ring and does not have much spring and can be easily deformed. pry it on the shaft very carefully with several very small screw drivers. just enough to get it over the end of the shaft. when in place it should be tight around the shaft, loose will fail. there is one for the 2/3 inner hub that is bigger and stronger so it usually can be used over.
 

Big Red Bull

New member
50
25
0
Location
Grandy, NC
I'm thinking thats what I'll do is swap upper shafts. However, and just so I'm clear on this. The PDF shows having to use a puller to remove the bearing on the transfer case end of the trans. If I'm understanding you correctly, I remove the 4 bolt connecting the transfer case, then remove the bearing housing bolts ..... shoot now I have to go back and look. Something isnt making sense to me again. Maybe I'm just so frustraited I can't think!!!!!
 

Big Red Bull

New member
50
25
0
Location
Grandy, NC
Tom, bear with me here please. The slider moves forward and back to engage 2 or 3 gear, as with the others. What actually engages? I know there is an inner spline, I just don't know what "hits" what to engage the shaft to the gears
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks